The engine will have to come out basically.

 

Why would the engine have to come out? Can't I just drop the oil pan and fix the problem? Also, how bad is it to drive with it like this? Will this "tapping" cause serious damage? Now you're scaring me

 

tight between the subframe and the pan.

 

OOps. Yes, I think the pan may have been dented. As far as the Canton is concerned I wouldnt get one till they can fabricate one that fits correctly.

 

interference problems, doesnt fit well. just mod the stock, I found just grind the rods on the other side and no oil rail issues.

Eric

 

Thanks for all the replies. I'll take it into a shop this week and see if we can't bang it back out. Two questions though. How bad is it to drive like this? And how can I be positive that this will resolve the issue?

 

Worst thing that could happen is the rod will eventually perforate the pan and you lose your oil, oil pressure and then your motor. So probably not a good idea.

You cant be positive this would resolve the issue unless you remove the pan and verify that is the actual problem. Could also be a rod knock. These obviously are just educated guesses.

 

Umm..I have the newest Canton Oil pan and it fit very nicely..Solved my stroker problems..The stock oil pan has horrible oil control and all the oil climbs the back of the pan when you get on it hard..I would go with the Canton oil pan and not look back..Nutek may have some in stock..

Cody

 

just awful fit, I guess they got a better mold.

Still high, stock works fine Eric

 

Just going by what I have read on this forum. If I remember correctly people were still having fitment issues with the new oil pans. I think it had to do with the internal baffles not clearing the crank/oil pump and possibly the dip stick hole not lining up correctly. I stayed with the stocker for these reasons unfortunately I do have oil control issues. Especially when I apply the Baer brakes to hard; I lose oil pressure

Also did you install it yourself or have a shop do it?

 

I was listening to it some more today and I noticed that although I thought it was in concert with the crank, the noise does not increase in frequency or pitch as I accelerate or give it gas. It's the same constant noise all the time (almost like a washing machine on the spin cycle). It doesn't matter whether it's idling or under load. Would this make a difference as to what it might be?

 

everything else varies with engine rpm's?

 

i will get a 398 stroker kit soon and i ordered a canton oil pan for it from Nu-tek. Nick @ Nu-Tek asked me if this pan for a stroker and what stroke so that he can adjust the scraper for proper clearnace i told yes it is for a stroker and the stroke is 3.875". here is the mail :


Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 14:49:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Abdullah AL-Kandery" <kandery@yahoo.com> | This is spam | Add to Address Book
Subject: Re: any thing new on my order
To: "nu-tek" <nu-tek@ameritech.net>



Nick, yes the Pan is for 398ci LT1 stroker and the
stroke is 3.875". thanks.

Abdullah

--- nu-tek <nu-tek@ameritech.net> wrote:
> Abdullah,
> The Canton pan kits that have been on backorder are
> scheduled to arrive here
> on the 28th. I should be able to leak test a pan,
> and get your complete
> order out that day. I'll e-mail you tracking info as
> soon as it goes out the
> door. Is the pan going on a stroker ? If so, let me
> know what stroke, so
> that I can adjust the scraper for proper clearance.
> Thanks
>
> Nick Norris
> Nu-Tek Motorsports
> 419-427-3330
> www.nu-tekmotorsports.com
>

 

Me and a friend did it on a lift..Took us about 6 hrs to do..The fitment was kinda tricky tho..Felt like it was hitting on something inside the pan but after take off every possible item it could be hitting we figured out it was just the fitment..No leaks here tho

Cody

 

Cody, sorry to ask but what you meant by fittment? were the main caps like too tight on the crank and the bearings? maybe the rods caps were too tight on the bearings?