Finally have the 396 up and running , but have a few questions:

1) There is a loud and EXTREMELY repetitive (i.e.- is in concert with the crankshaft) noise in the front of the oil pan (stock piece). It's like a knock, but it doesn't appear to be causing any problems. Anyone's stroker noisy in this area? I drove it for 45 min and the noise did not subside. Also, we removed the accessories to eliminate those too. It is definately internal.

2) My idling RPM is 1000 and when I'm at 60mph I hit 3000RPM. This is with a CC306 cam, 3200 PI Stall, and 3.73 gears. Does this seem right? It feels like I no longer have overdrive.

Thanks for any help.

 

1) You did pound out the oil pan where the crank touches, right? The crank may still be slightly tapping it.

2)My idle rpm is about the same with the 306, also f body tachs read a bit high. Mine looks like 1k but it is actually closer to 850 or 900. I have no idea about cruising I have a M6 and at 70 I'm a bit under 2k w/ 3.42s.

 

Well let us see, did you clearance the block near the oil pan rails and at the end of the cylinder?????????

chances are you didn't give it .060 did you?

If you change your oil 2 times chances are you will see metal flakes on the 3rd oil change also.

Who's rods did you use. Mine are Olivers and they take the most clearancing.

Hope you know what your doing

 

>I'm not bashing ... just asking a question : Who built you stroker ?

 

yes dude theirs TONS of clearancing that had to be done with my stroker.. block and oil pan both!

 

Here's the history of the motor. It was built by MTI in 1998. The person I bought it from put a total of 10,000 miles on it without any probelms. Sold it to me complete from throttlebody to oil pan. I've spoken to him, very upfront honest guy, about it and he has no idea either. So this is something that just began after I installed it in my car.
Also, I am running forged Callies rods. Hope that helps.

 

take a long screwdriver and put it on the oil pan and the handle part to your ear, acts just like a stethoscope, try it.

 

Maybe you hit the oil pan and put a bit of a dent in it when you put in the motor? I don't know, my only guess is that your crank/rods are tapping the oil pan.

 

Mine does the same thing. The noise is loud when the motor is cold but as it warms up it gets quieter and and almost goes away.
I thought it was in my valve train but i here it loud under the car too. I never thought about the oil pan. Maybe when i sat the motor down to rehook my chains it might of very slightly bent my oil pan. Just a guess. I bought the 396 used also and far as i know it didn't make any noise in his car. Alan

 

whether you use a screwdriver or a stethoscope. May have dented???

 

Do you think a new canton oil pan would alleviate this problem if indeed I did somehow dent the oil pan? Also, wouldn't I notice these dents?
Hmm, now that I think about it the shop that did the swap took the engine out from the bottom by unhooking everything and putting it on a wooden roller platform. He then put this new engine on the same plaform, worked on it (wires, wp, etc), and then pushed it back in from the bottom. Do you think having the engine rest on the pan for that long probably bent the pan in slightly? Sound likely?

 

Ummmm...Yes
Stock oil pan will barely clear the rods even with some massaging.
Clearance on mine is less than a 1/4".

 

Yes to which question? Do you think I should go with the canton, or yes it probably was dented?

 

and expensive too, stock works fine, I have a 383 and it works fine, the stock oil pan that is, just need to get out your BFH.....

 

Sounds likely that the dents could have popped back into place. If your pan is flat like a stock pan your crank will almost definitely be tapping it, my 383 crank hit it and I'm sure your 396 crank is a bit worse. Pull the pan and check for scratches inside before you go and buy a canton.