Stroker Kit
Wild1,
Thanks for all the help man. I think i'm just going to stay away from the blower completely and go with all engine. This way I can just spray later on if I really want the extra power. Btw, my '96 is a 6 speed
. It adds to the fun...
As for the installation, I don't have the knowledge, skills, place, or equipment to do it myself, so I'll have to find a local competent shop to do it for me. As I listed above, I was thinking East Cost Superchargers, or Rapid Motorsports. I'm probably going to with what you suggested at the bottom of your reply...Stage 3 Crower cam...etc. Now where should I look to get the other parts? I think www.eastcoastsuperchargers.com, and www.rapidmotorsports.com has most of that stuff availible. And they can probably do all the head porting for me. All the stuff that you listed are basically both the stroker and heads package right? I want to start shopping for the parts soon...I should be able to get most of the parts at once...maybe the shop will cut me a deal on labor if I get the parts from them and have everything installed at once. Since the winter is coming...i'm going to try and put the car into the shop then since it doesn't do so well in the snow anyways.
BTW: I'll need an LT4 timing chain and not an LT1? (just wondering because that's what you listed)
Thanks for all the help man. I think i'm just going to stay away from the blower completely and go with all engine. This way I can just spray later on if I really want the extra power. Btw, my '96 is a 6 speed
. It adds to the fun...As for the installation, I don't have the knowledge, skills, place, or equipment to do it myself, so I'll have to find a local competent shop to do it for me. As I listed above, I was thinking East Cost Superchargers, or Rapid Motorsports. I'm probably going to with what you suggested at the bottom of your reply...Stage 3 Crower cam...etc. Now where should I look to get the other parts? I think www.eastcoastsuperchargers.com, and www.rapidmotorsports.com has most of that stuff availible. And they can probably do all the head porting for me. All the stuff that you listed are basically both the stroker and heads package right? I want to start shopping for the parts soon...I should be able to get most of the parts at once...maybe the shop will cut me a deal on labor if I get the parts from them and have everything installed at once. Since the winter is coming...i'm going to try and put the car into the shop then since it doesn't do so well in the snow anyways.
BTW: I'll need an LT4 timing chain and not an LT1? (just wondering because that's what you listed)
I'll look into those other companies this evening when I get home. Yes, an LT4 Timing Chain to handle the extra power. It can be installed without the LT4 timing cover but you may want to verify that.
Another option is to go with a double roller set up (you'll find it in a Search) for any 350 but you'll need to get an electric water pump. There isn't any provision for gearing to turn the water pump gear on standard 350 timing chain sprockets.
Cloyes also makes a tough timing chain for built motors but is around $450+.
Another option is to go with a double roller set up (you'll find it in a Search) for any 350 but you'll need to get an electric water pump. There isn't any provision for gearing to turn the water pump gear on standard 350 timing chain sprockets.
Cloyes also makes a tough timing chain for built motors but is around $450+.
**** nu-tec (sorry grip)
get someone better and with a much better reputation-
www.cmotorsports.com
and they will beat nu-tek's prices
get someone better and with a much better reputation-
www.cmotorsports.com
and they will beat nu-tek's prices
To my knowledge a Cloye's true roller timing chain (stronger than the LT4 Extreme) is all of $79. Yes you need to buy an electric waterpump also, but you can get both for about $200 (still cheaper than the LT4 Extreme) and you'll pick up some more ponies from the electric waterpump.
Most people do not have problems with electric pumps. But we've had guys fry their motors on the Southern California Grid-lock highways. Also, if you "crimp" the wires you may be inviting trouble. The oxidation that gets into crimps will add resistance which will slow down the motor... this happens over time. If they wiggle loose, then you've got a serious overheat.
If you do go with an electric pump. Solder and use heat-shrink tubing. Again, we are in the sun belt so heat is an issue which is not a stong concern in other parts of the US.
Just be careful and order a quality pump. Also be careful where you tap for power as well as any in-line fuse. If the fuse blows, either at the tap in-line or at the fuse box, your engine may still be running but without the water pump. You'll really need to watch that gauge because it doesn't take long to boil your heads.
Again, most of the guys here aren't sitting still (literally) in the heat. Most move no slower than 5-10 mph... generally speaking and have not had problems. Most guys here in So Cal with the gridlocked highways stay away from electric water pumps.
Not scaring anyone, just pointing out that it depends on your driving environment. I'd hate to see a 383 overheat.
If you do go with an electric pump. Solder and use heat-shrink tubing. Again, we are in the sun belt so heat is an issue which is not a stong concern in other parts of the US.
Just be careful and order a quality pump. Also be careful where you tap for power as well as any in-line fuse. If the fuse blows, either at the tap in-line or at the fuse box, your engine may still be running but without the water pump. You'll really need to watch that gauge because it doesn't take long to boil your heads.
Again, most of the guys here aren't sitting still (literally) in the heat. Most move no slower than 5-10 mph... generally speaking and have not had problems. Most guys here in So Cal with the gridlocked highways stay away from electric water pumps.
Not scaring anyone, just pointing out that it depends on your driving environment. I'd hate to see a 383 overheat.
I'll give cmotorsports a call to see what they have. The question is...do you guys recommend getting all the parts from vaious places/companies and bringing them to a local shop to install? Or am I better off getting some of these components from the shop that i'm getting all the work done at?...granted they have them...like most places have their own cams, heads, and other stroker kit packages already...
And as for the heat, I don't have to worry too much about it since I live in Central NJ...doesn't get too hot for too long.
And as for the heat, I don't have to worry too much about it since I live in Central NJ...doesn't get too hot for too long.
Originally posted by TreySpeed
**** nu-tec (sorry grip)
get someone better and with a much better reputation-
www.cmotorsports.com
and they will beat nu-tek's prices
**** nu-tec (sorry grip)
get someone better and with a much better reputation-
www.cmotorsports.com
and they will beat nu-tek's prices
) .Do yourself a favor and go with a company that doesn't have (or getting) a bad rep .
Well the only problem with getting my parts from cmotorsports...is that they are located in NV...and I live in NJ. If you're telling me to get everything from one place...should I just order everything through the shop in my area that I'm going to get the install done at? Some of the other members on this board have suggested www.eastcostsuperchargers.com and www.rapidmotorsports.com. What do you guys think?
I've already contacted CarTek, and they only work on LS1's now. Do you have contact info for B&B? Paying $150 for shipping isn't that bad...as long as I'm still getting a better price on the parts.


