Stroker Kit
10-16-2003, 01:47 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Central NJ
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Stroker Kit
Which stroker kit do you guys recomend? I'm thinking about getting the Lunati 383 or 388 from http://www.lgmotorsports.com/OCLT1_Fbody_Engine.htm
Is that a good price? I also saw the Lunati kit on www.thunderracing.com, but it's about $500 more. Do you know if it's the same thing?
What kind of power gains would I be looking at getting. Currently my '96 Z has FLP Longtube headers, Granitelli MAF, custom catback exhaust with a Flowmaster muffler from Mufflex, and the SS style Ram Air kit/hood. I had it dynoed at SLP, it's got 345hp at the crank and 354 lbs of torque. Is the stroker kit a good route to go to achieve 400+hp??
Is that a good price? I also saw the Lunati kit on www.thunderracing.com, but it's about $500 more. Do you know if it's the same thing?
What kind of power gains would I be looking at getting. Currently my '96 Z has FLP Longtube headers, Granitelli MAF, custom catback exhaust with a Flowmaster muffler from Mufflex, and the SS style Ram Air kit/hood. I had it dynoed at SLP, it's got 345hp at the crank and 354 lbs of torque. Is the stroker kit a good route to go to achieve 400+hp??
10-16-2003, 02:00 PM
#2
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Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 3,650
I got my stroker kit from www.nu-tekmotorsports.com
Tell Nick Gripenfelter sent you. I'm sure they could beat those prices. They even sell complete strokers.
Tell Nick Gripenfelter sent you. I'm sure they could beat those prices. They even sell complete strokers.
Last edited by Gripenfelter; 10-16-2003 at 02:10 PM.
10-16-2003, 02:49 PM
#4
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Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 3,650
They're in Northwest Ohio.
237 Stanford Parkway
Findlay, Oh. 45840
Ph. 419-427-3330 Fax 419-427-2525
nu-tek@ameritech.net
237 Stanford Parkway
Findlay, Oh. 45840
Ph. 419-427-3330 Fax 419-427-2525
nu-tek@ameritech.net
10-16-2003, 04:17 PM
#7
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Central NJ
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So am I better off getting a custom kit, or a setup from one of the shops, like NuTek? I also have 2 other places that people have refered me to, they are a bit closer to my area (Central NJ).
East Cost Supercharging: http://www.eastcoastsupercharging.com/
and Rapid Motorsports: www.rapidmotorsports.com
I believe both places have and can install stroker kits...etc. Has anyone delt with either of them or had anything installed by them?
Also, what other choices are there besides the modular cast iron crank w/ forged pistons? What would be a resonable price for a setup like that?
East Cost Supercharging: http://www.eastcoastsupercharging.com/
and Rapid Motorsports: www.rapidmotorsports.com
I believe both places have and can install stroker kits...etc. Has anyone delt with either of them or had anything installed by them?
Also, what other choices are there besides the modular cast iron crank w/ forged pistons? What would be a resonable price for a setup like that?
10-16-2003, 04:42 PM
#8
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Orange Kounty, Kalifornia
Posts: 2,277
It's good that you are asking questions before jumping in. There is a lot of useful information on this board with a few boneheads.
What is your intended purpose? Will you be using boost or nitrous later? What is your target horsepower (fly or rear) & torque range?
Scat cast cranks can handle up to 500 flywheel horsepower. Beyond that, I'd consider forged cranks. You MUST stud your 2-bolt mains which are good for 550 flywheel horsepower (depending on machining quality) you'll need an align hone. More than that and I would consider splaying the main caps.
What is your intended purpose? Will you be using boost or nitrous later? What is your target horsepower (fly or rear) & torque range?
Scat cast cranks can handle up to 500 flywheel horsepower. Beyond that, I'd consider forged cranks. You MUST stud your 2-bolt mains which are good for 550 flywheel horsepower (depending on machining quality) you'll need an align hone. More than that and I would consider splaying the main caps.
10-16-2003, 04:49 PM
#9
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Orange Kounty, Kalifornia
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I noticed you mentioned 400 hp... you can get 430 flywheel hp with an LT4 kit... heads and cam.
Most can get 410 - 440 with a head cam combo depending on the head work and local smog laws.
A stroker isn't necessarily about HP but you'll get tons of Torque! Your torque will be in the mid to high 400s depending on your head & cam package. Keep in mind you'll need a tough rear end and trans to handle extreme abuse.
Save up for a 12-bolt and get your trans built...
Most can get 410 - 440 with a head cam combo depending on the head work and local smog laws.
A stroker isn't necessarily about HP but you'll get tons of Torque! Your torque will be in the mid to high 400s depending on your head & cam package. Keep in mind you'll need a tough rear end and trans to handle extreme abuse.
Save up for a 12-bolt and get your trans built...
10-16-2003, 06:12 PM
#10
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Location: Central NJ
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Yea i was looking to put out about 400+ HP at the wheel. Currently i've only got 286 at the wheels and 345 at the crank. I probably won't be using nitrous later...i'm going to try to keep it all engine. Maybe...and that's a big maybe I'll consider a supercharger...but I'd rather focus on getting all the power from the engine alone. I was also planning on changing the heads as well...I haven't looked too much into it just yet, but the plan was to get the heads and etc done after the stroker kit. What about those stage 2/stage 3 head packages out there? like those listed on www.thunderracing.com, www.tbyrnemotorsports.com, and at the shops like rapid motorsports, and ECS listed in earlier. DO they look like good prices?
Would you recomend doing both the heads and stroker kit at the same time? Since the engine will be outta the car anyways? I've also read on various websites and posts that some ported LT1 kits have produced more power than the LT4...Which would have a greater potential for more power? And what kind of gains will I be looking at if I were to get stage 2 heads?
I also plan on upgrading the clutch, flywheel, and drive shaft in the future to try and cut down on the hp loss between the engine and wheel. I don't beat down on the car much...so the rear end should be ok for awhile even after the mods, but I will definately start saving for the rear
Would you recomend doing both the heads and stroker kit at the same time? Since the engine will be outta the car anyways? I've also read on various websites and posts that some ported LT1 kits have produced more power than the LT4...Which would have a greater potential for more power? And what kind of gains will I be looking at if I were to get stage 2 heads?
I also plan on upgrading the clutch, flywheel, and drive shaft in the future to try and cut down on the hp loss between the engine and wheel. I don't beat down on the car much...so the rear end should be ok for awhile even after the mods, but I will definately start saving for the rear
10-16-2003, 06:33 PM
#11
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Orange Kounty, Kalifornia
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Will you be launching the car like a drag car or will you be road racing it in the corners? It makes a difference in the "recipe" of how you build the car.
First, pistons... hypereutechtics are lighter but forged is stronger. If it is only naturally aspirated (NA) without boost you can get away with a lighter piston. But at any time in the future you want boost or nitrous, you'll have to go to forged.
About boost, now is the time to make a plan.... boost likes 9:1 static compression ratio... more or less depending on the cam you choose affects the Dynamic Compression Ratio. If you build for NA now at 11:1, then you may have big troubles adding a Supercharger or Turbo later... however you may do very well with Nitrous as N2O likes compression/heat. Again, you'll have to make the decision at the time you order your parts if you want boost in the future or not.
Get your heads done now... there are a few good head porters here if you need a lead (Skaradom, Lloyd Eliot, etc). I wouldn't get into the Stage 2 or 3 terminology. Decide on what you want to do with the car (driving intent and style), then pick a cam. After you pick a cam, then the head porter can tune the head to the cam... ideal! Approximate price is anywhere from $800 - $1100 for everything including parts... this is repurposing your stock heads.
Stock heads flow great for most applications. AFR heads have a thick deck which can be a definate plus under high boost. For what your intent is, have your stock heads upgraded. Again, if you will go with boost later, they'll need to port your exhaust ports now while it is out. Otherwise you won't be extracting the full benefit from the porting although it is better than stock.
First, pistons... hypereutechtics are lighter but forged is stronger. If it is only naturally aspirated (NA) without boost you can get away with a lighter piston. But at any time in the future you want boost or nitrous, you'll have to go to forged.
About boost, now is the time to make a plan.... boost likes 9:1 static compression ratio... more or less depending on the cam you choose affects the Dynamic Compression Ratio. If you build for NA now at 11:1, then you may have big troubles adding a Supercharger or Turbo later... however you may do very well with Nitrous as N2O likes compression/heat. Again, you'll have to make the decision at the time you order your parts if you want boost in the future or not.
Get your heads done now... there are a few good head porters here if you need a lead (Skaradom, Lloyd Eliot, etc). I wouldn't get into the Stage 2 or 3 terminology. Decide on what you want to do with the car (driving intent and style), then pick a cam. After you pick a cam, then the head porter can tune the head to the cam... ideal! Approximate price is anywhere from $800 - $1100 for everything including parts... this is repurposing your stock heads.
Stock heads flow great for most applications. AFR heads have a thick deck which can be a definate plus under high boost. For what your intent is, have your stock heads upgraded. Again, if you will go with boost later, they'll need to port your exhaust ports now while it is out. Otherwise you won't be extracting the full benefit from the porting although it is better than stock.
10-16-2003, 07:36 PM
#12
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 355
My car right now is mostly a street car. I want to keep it "well rounded" if you will...It is and will be for the most part a daily driver, I just want it to have some serious HP...for those spur of the moment street races...etc. I use it mostly for cruising and for some fun on the weekends. However, i will still like it to be able to hold it's own on the drag strip or off the line on the street when just messing around with other cars, but at the same time I don't want to sacrifice it's handling capabilities...cornering...etc.
As for the blower...I think i'm going to stick to NA. But just to know...what would I do different if I were to build for a blower in the future? For example which heads should I get...should I even bother with a stroker kit later?
With this info about the car's intent, etc, what do you recomend for a head/cam package? $800 - $1100 isn't bad at all. Do happen to have the web address for either Skaradom, or Lloyd Eliot? I was originally looking to spend $2000 + install for the stroker kit. If I were to stay N/A and use the car as I decribed above, should I still keep the stroker kit in mind as the next "big" mod after the heads? Do you know how much hp new heads will get me? THanks for you help
As for the blower...I think i'm going to stick to NA. But just to know...what would I do different if I were to build for a blower in the future? For example which heads should I get...should I even bother with a stroker kit later?
With this info about the car's intent, etc, what do you recomend for a head/cam package? $800 - $1100 isn't bad at all. Do happen to have the web address for either Skaradom, or Lloyd Eliot? I was originally looking to spend $2000 + install for the stroker kit. If I were to stay N/A and use the car as I decribed above, should I still keep the stroker kit in mind as the next "big" mod after the heads? Do you know how much hp new heads will get me? THanks for you help
10-16-2003, 08:08 PM
#13
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Land O Lakes, FL
Posts: 880
Look at the kit that www.cmotorsports.com has to offer. It is an all-forged + balanced kit for ~$1750. I haven't heard anything bad about those guys either. If you ask me, if you are going to build a stroker, do it right the first time and go all-forged. That way, you won't regret it later if you decide to spray or anything. Good luck.
10-17-2003, 12:17 AM
#15
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Orange Kounty, Kalifornia
Posts: 2,277
Yes, I've heard many good things about www.cmotorsports.com
But I think he wanted somebody in his area.
The cam on a 383 can be larger than the cam for the 350. For a smooth engine, daily driver you'll want mild duration (112-116). The higher the number the smoother the idle (not lopey). Crower has some nice 114 duration cams for the LT1.
Also, by keeping the duration mild at 114, you'll be able to keep your powerband in the middle (2500 - 6200) with strength around 4400-6000... great for snapping out of corners. It will also help with smog if that is a concern.
If you build the engine now but decide to add a blower, you'll need to lower your static compression ratio to around 9-9.5:1. To do that, you'll need to get different cc pistons. You should also get a blower cam. You may need to get new heads with the proper cc to get the desirable static compression ratio. Your blower cam should help with the dynamic compression ratio.
Also, you'll want to have the exhaust ports opened up a bit on the heads.
Head work fully prepped is about $900-$1100 (+/-).
Cam - $235
LT4 HD Timing Chain - $300 (guestimate)
Gaskets (Intake, Exhaust, heads, timing)... - $150 (+/-)
Programming - $100
Scat Cast Crank, Forged Pistons, 5.85 H-Beam Rods - $1350
Add forged crank +$500
Stud the block and heads $400
These are numbers that I haven't delt with in a while so don't quote me, they are just to give you an approximate idea.
If you do this yourself, you should have your block fully machined (align honed, decked, bored, install cam bearings, etc).
Heads add about 30 - 55 hp depending on the engine package. You could roughly guess about 40 HP gain from heads on a mild idle street 383.
With a 383, you should consider a 58mm Throttle Body too.
If you go with the forged crank option, you can run Nitrous all day and your engine will be able to handle it. You could do it on cast up to 500 HP... which is about 430 HP (+/-) at the wheels depending if you have an Auto or Manual. Forged your Nitrous option is much higher nearing 900 HP provided your rear and trans can handle it. Some go more but 900 is crazy for the street.
I'd recommend the Stage 3 Crower and have the heads ported to match. Get a forged crank, forged pistons, and 5.85 H-Beam Rods. Stud the block and heads. Target a static compression ratio around 11:1. Have it tuned for pump gas (91 Octane in California). When you get close to planning, I've got a dynamic compression ratio calculator we can run to find the optimum cam to get you the correct dynamic compression ratio you'll need. But the Crower is very close. With this set up, you'll be able to squeeze 50-500 HP of Nitrous very easily. Again, depends if the rear and trans are up to spec. Since you are going into corners hard, I'd guess that you have a manual. There are kits you can buy to get "Viper" parts to beef it up a bit. McCloud (sp?) has a few good clutch and flywheel kits that people seem to be happy with...
But I think he wanted somebody in his area.
The cam on a 383 can be larger than the cam for the 350. For a smooth engine, daily driver you'll want mild duration (112-116). The higher the number the smoother the idle (not lopey). Crower has some nice 114 duration cams for the LT1.
Also, by keeping the duration mild at 114, you'll be able to keep your powerband in the middle (2500 - 6200) with strength around 4400-6000... great for snapping out of corners. It will also help with smog if that is a concern.
If you build the engine now but decide to add a blower, you'll need to lower your static compression ratio to around 9-9.5:1. To do that, you'll need to get different cc pistons. You should also get a blower cam. You may need to get new heads with the proper cc to get the desirable static compression ratio. Your blower cam should help with the dynamic compression ratio.
Also, you'll want to have the exhaust ports opened up a bit on the heads.
Head work fully prepped is about $900-$1100 (+/-).
Cam - $235
LT4 HD Timing Chain - $300 (guestimate)
Gaskets (Intake, Exhaust, heads, timing)... - $150 (+/-)
Programming - $100
Scat Cast Crank, Forged Pistons, 5.85 H-Beam Rods - $1350
Add forged crank +$500
Stud the block and heads $400
These are numbers that I haven't delt with in a while so don't quote me, they are just to give you an approximate idea.
If you do this yourself, you should have your block fully machined (align honed, decked, bored, install cam bearings, etc).
Heads add about 30 - 55 hp depending on the engine package. You could roughly guess about 40 HP gain from heads on a mild idle street 383.
With a 383, you should consider a 58mm Throttle Body too.
If you go with the forged crank option, you can run Nitrous all day and your engine will be able to handle it. You could do it on cast up to 500 HP... which is about 430 HP (+/-) at the wheels depending if you have an Auto or Manual. Forged your Nitrous option is much higher nearing 900 HP provided your rear and trans can handle it. Some go more but 900 is crazy for the street.
I'd recommend the Stage 3 Crower and have the heads ported to match. Get a forged crank, forged pistons, and 5.85 H-Beam Rods. Stud the block and heads. Target a static compression ratio around 11:1. Have it tuned for pump gas (91 Octane in California). When you get close to planning, I've got a dynamic compression ratio calculator we can run to find the optimum cam to get you the correct dynamic compression ratio you'll need. But the Crower is very close. With this set up, you'll be able to squeeze 50-500 HP of Nitrous very easily. Again, depends if the rear and trans are up to spec. Since you are going into corners hard, I'd guess that you have a manual. There are kits you can buy to get "Viper" parts to beef it up a bit. McCloud (sp?) has a few good clutch and flywheel kits that people seem to be happy with...