I'm starting the early planning phase of a 383 stroker build for my '95. I was just wondering if someone who has done this or a similar build has a rough figure of what it cost. Not including any suspension or other drivetrain or transmission costs. I have a good idea of what I'll be using and will figure out the specifics from thread research, I'm not quite ready to start the build so I'm just looking for a ball-park figure. Not a whole parts list with part #'s, just an idea of what I'll be looking at here financially. (I know it won't be pretty) Thanks.

 

WAY to vague a question. One guy does a $4000 stroker build and gets waxxed by heads/cam cars, another does a $12000 build and runs low 10s. Money is NOT the only deciding factor though sometimes people choose expensive but still not good parts.


$2100 for a Compstar rotating assembly, not the cheapest but the best value going. Figure $1500 in machining and assembly,
$1000 oiling system, opti, plug wires, waterpump etc.
$500 for a core motor,
$500 in fuel pump/wiring/injectors.
$800 in exhaust
$3500 in head/intake work and valvetrain for a hydraulic setup more for solid roller

You could spend a little more or less on any of this but these are decent figures to start with. Of course if you already have things like a upgraded fuel pump and exhaust you can delete those.

Resist the urge to do cheap chinese cast stuff that is weaker than stock. Cheap pistons are also often a step backwards from stock. Cheap machinist is likely to cost you a lot of reliability and power and in the end more money to correct things.

Yes you can buy a $700 rotating assembly instead of the $2100 I suggested, but there IS a big difference, the $700 will be weaker than stock and given the same heads and cam likely make less power than a stock shortblock too. Ultra cheap stuff is cheap for a reason.

 

Been down this road before! I think $9400.00 is a little high, depending on HP goals. I wouldn't spend $700.00 on a rotating assembly either, but I also don't think you need to spend $2100.00. Shouldn't need to buy a "core" block. If your only looking for 425 to 450 hp I would think you could get it done for $6,500 to $7,000.00.

 

Good engine builders are gonna charge around $1,000 for basic machine work and engine assembly. If you are in a rural area, costs tend to be lower. If machine work beyond a cylinder bore and hone and stroker clearancing is needed, it can be more. Just add that to the parts cost.

Cost and hassle wise, you should consider buying a baklanced rotating assy. as a unit and not parts piecemeal. Also, most builders prefer to procure the parts, this is good for them and you for a variety of reasons.

Rich

 

Do you plan on using nitrous on the motor? This will determine the type of pistons/rods/crank you buy and is about a $400 - $700 differance depending on parts used. Assuming all parts are of decent quality. There is no need to completely forge out the bottom end if you do not plan to use any sort of power adder in the future. However if you do want a max effort N/A motor some forged pistons are a good idea at the least.

Just based off of your fague question I agree with the above mentioned prices. I also recommend calling AI and talking to them about their LT1 200cc head cam package. That will save you a good amount of money on castings and they can get you an awsome set up with flat top pistons w/-5cc valve reliefs on 11.8:1 to 12.3:1 compression ratio and pump gas. Also factor in the $500 for a good dyno tune.

A lot of this also has to do with the supporting mods you may already have or not have as well. So list that too.

 

what kind of power are you looking for? Goals for the car? DD or race setup?


rough est. 4-12k.

 

The $2100 rotating assembly was based on a balanced Compstar assembly and the $1500 machining and assembly was based on going to 4 bolt caps.

Going to want to buy a core unless you want the car down for the whole build.

 

But this doesn't factor into the cost unless "yours" can't be sold afterward.

 

To me it would be silly to sell a functional stock motor just because you put a performance motor in. Mine is a TRUE steet car so if I blewup the performance engine I would throw the stocker back in till the engine was rebuilt. Too many time I have gotten rid of used parts and sometime later wished I had them as spares.

 

Definitely different perspectives on this one. Can't recall ever "blowing" one of my performance engines, so not concerned about it. Maybe I'm not trying hard enough!! Also always had at least one backup car, so I can afford to have a car down for a long time.
After I finish the 414 for the 97 I will definitely be selling the LT1 out of it to help offset some of the cost.

 

1250 for a forged eagle kit. around 800 for machining, balancing, assembly, and gaskets, 250 or so for an opti from ebay(the partsladdy i think) 280 for injectors, 200 or so for a bigger throttle body. that's what i have in my engine for the build, now im not including the stuff i had on the car from before the stroker build like exhaust, heads, fuel pump, and tuning software. so i guess i have around 2800 in the actual stroker build.

 

I have $250 in my heads/cam setup if you only count the rockers, not the heads/cam, gaskets, pushrods, fluids and the stuff I had on the car.

 

I put $6000 into my build (Most of the parts in sig) and I am real close to 400rwhp. The only thing not done is intake and head porting, other than a 58mm tb port and 3 angle valve job. I have a Level 2 performabuilt trans on the way (Stock is skipping) and I assume as soon as I get the intake and heads done (This winter) I will be getting much closer to 500rwhp. It is possible to produce good numbers on a budget, but as you can tell it never ends. I guess you can add $3,000 more to my $6,000 number above.

 

There is another issue with builds, guys have totally unrealistic expectations.

What leads you to believe you will see 500rwhp???

It has been done with a 355, BUT not through the automatic and NOT with some of the other choices you are making sofar.

Spray is the only way I see you getting there from the starting point you have and spending only $3k more.

 

If you read my post, I said much closer to 500RWHP. I did not say I will be at or over 500RWHP. I am expecting 450RWHP after this winter. I am not unrealistic you just did not read my post correctly.