Stock Torque Converter stall?????
Well you'd really benefit from a higher stall, especially since you don't have to worry about the 3K OBDI issue.
I just got my first A4 (drove M6s before) so I don't have a lot of driving experience with higher stalls, but I suppose a 2600 would be good, although I'd probably go with a 2800-3000 if it was my car.
FWIW, most hotcams I've tuned before were in the 2400-2600 range.
I just got my first A4 (drove M6s before) so I don't have a lot of driving experience with higher stalls, but I suppose a 2600 would be good, although I'd probably go with a 2800-3000 if it was my car.

FWIW, most hotcams I've tuned before were in the 2400-2600 range.
The reason I ask is that the trans shop that is custom making my converter took all the specs of what I'm running and said to go with a 2500 stall for optimum performance. I thought it was kinda low.
Originally posted by madwolf
Well you'd really benefit from a higher stall, especially since you don't have to worry about the 3K OBDI issue.
I just got my first A4 (drove M6s before) so I don't have a lot of driving experience with higher stalls, but I suppose a 2600 would be good, although I'd probably go with a 2800-3000 if it was my car.
FWIW, most hotcams I've tuned before were in the 2400-2600 range.
Well you'd really benefit from a higher stall, especially since you don't have to worry about the 3K OBDI issue.
I just got my first A4 (drove M6s before) so I don't have a lot of driving experience with higher stalls, but I suppose a 2600 would be good, although I'd probably go with a 2800-3000 if it was my car.

FWIW, most hotcams I've tuned before were in the 2400-2600 range.
I'm not sure what exactly has been done to your tune, but improved closed throttle timing usually helps the brake issue.
Also, I've seen the D "jumping" on cars with the line pressure set high for 0% throttle. I always leave that at 0.
As for the high stall issue, it's a shifting issue (the car doesn't want to shift into next gear, hits the rev limiter, then soft lands into 3rd). This usually happens with sticky tires/slicks.
Also, I've seen the D "jumping" on cars with the line pressure set high for 0% throttle. I always leave that at 0.
As for the high stall issue, it's a shifting issue (the car doesn't want to shift into next gear, hits the rev limiter, then soft lands into 3rd). This usually happens with sticky tires/slicks.
Originally posted by madwolf
I'm not sure what exactly has been done to your tune, but improved closed throttle timing usually helps the brake issue.
Also, I've seen the D "jumping" on cars with the line pressure set high for 0% throttle. I always leave that at 0.
As for the high stall issue, it's a shifting issue (the car doesn't want to shift into next gear, hits the rev limiter, then soft lands into 3rd). This usually happens with sticky tires/slicks.
I'm not sure what exactly has been done to your tune, but improved closed throttle timing usually helps the brake issue.
Also, I've seen the D "jumping" on cars with the line pressure set high for 0% throttle. I always leave that at 0.
As for the high stall issue, it's a shifting issue (the car doesn't want to shift into next gear, hits the rev limiter, then soft lands into 3rd). This usually happens with sticky tires/slicks.
Originally posted by S.J.S.
Lets say you had my specs, and had to do stop go traffic everyday, what size covt. would you go with?
Lets say you had my specs, and had to do stop go traffic everyday, what size covt. would you go with?
I drive it everyday back and forth to class in college, but I am use to it so its not a big deal.
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