I have run the pm rods for years in several 600fwhp applications and they hold up suprisingly well. I would not hesitate to use them in most bolt on applications, but with that said, I am using the scat 4340 5.7 I-beams with 3/8 capscrew bolts in one of the current builds for the extra safety margin. Oh yeah, stock crank too

 

That's a LOWER ring land.

The longer rod will just help lower the mass of the piston, which helps lower the inertia of the setup and extend the crankshaft life.

Bret

 

It's NOT weather they are pressed or floating,it's weather ya opened up the pin fit to allow for the extra load and if your pistons have pin oiling or not.
Pressed with extra pin clearence in the piston work just fine.

 

err...... i meant lower not larger.... i was just checking to make sure you would correct me! hehe thanks for clearing that up.

 

I may just go with some eagle or scat I beams. I havnt seen the scats sold anywhere though, just the eagles. I just as well go with the 6" as well since if I do add NO2 later, it will be a small amount. Im shooting for as much NA power as possible, then just enough NO2 to get me to my goal, 10.99.

I had a 26918 comp beehive spring break (they break well before the coil bind spec they give) and drop a valve. The head is BAD. The cylinder is scored, but the machine shop Im dealing with (racing engine shop) said they can sleeve it for $85, and they have sleeved blocks making a ton more power than Id ever dream of, so I think Im gonna reuse that.

Another unrelated question, how important is it to align hone the block. The same machine shop said they dont to that unless the old setup spun a bearing. They have many engines they built into the 6's 1/4 mile, and say they rarely do align hones. They said they can check the alignment for like $10, but if it needs honed, it isnt cheap.

 

CHECK the main brg alignment and hone IF necessary.

Putting a car in the 6's is one thing,making the car last to do it more than once is another thing: food for though

 

I may just go with this kit:

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...066&CtgID=9056

With resizing stock rods, installing arp bolts, polishing the crank, mahl piston/ring kit, and balancing, I was at almost $1000. This kit is just a little more than that, using new parts, and srp pistons. And it comes balanced. I dont think going with srp pistons instead of mahls is going to hurt with this mild setup.

 

350 - The original LT1 came with regular forged 350 rods, that were shot peened for localized hardness under the head of the bolt and nut. Powdered metal rods were phased in for the Corvette around 1994 and used in all of the LT1 engines by 1995. GM made the change because the powdered metal rods were cheaper to make and were much stronger than the GM high performance "pink" rods. In fact, they are supposed to be good for up to 450 hp. They are machined at the parting line so they can be reconditioned.

the above is copied from http://www.automotiverebuilder.com/ar/ar99928.htm

im kinda thinking that the GMPP rods they are selling are not exactly the same as the PM rods that were in the motors. i would be very surprised if they were advertiseing them as 4340 forged if they are not.

kinda like how the hot cam is called an "LT4" Hotcam, but that cam never cam in any LT4 motor....

sorry if this was already said, i didnt read through every post.

 

Well this is the GM's specs that they gave me.

High-performance rods on a low budget.
Put a set of GM Performance PM connecting rods in your engine. They are guaranteed performers and have been proven time and time again in the popular LT1 and LT4 engines. Whether you're rebuilding your late model or putting together a budget street pounder, a set of PM rods will get the job done. These powdered metal rods are lighter and stronger than the GM "pink rods".

Connecting Rod Length Center To Center (in): 5.700 in.
Connecting Rod Beam Style: I-beam
Connecting Rod Material: Powdered metal
Connecting Rod Finish: Polished and shot-peened
Wrist Pin Style: Press fit
Clearanced for Stroker: No
Cap Retention Style: Thru-bolt
Connecting Rod Bolt Brand: GM Performance Parts
Connecting Rod Bolt Diameter: 3/8 in.
Connecting Rod Bolt Material: 4740 chromemoly alloy
Fastener Yield Strength (psi)VL: 140,000 psi
Connecting Rod Bolt Head Style: Hex head
Pressurized Pin Oiling: No
Big End Bore Diameter (in): 2.100 in.
Pin End Bore Diameter (in): 0.927 in.
Advertised Horsepower Rating (hp): 500 hp
Advertised RPM Rating: 6,500 rpm
Weight Matched Set: No
Remanufactured: No
Balanced: No
Magnafluxed: Yes

That's the truth about it all.

 

Advertised as 4740 chromemoly alloy

 

Once again, the bolts are.