I dunno why exactly my mechanic never changed out my rocker arms but he put the same ones back in my motor that the stock engine had. He replaced the pushrods but that was a given. Im not exactly happy at all with how he built my engine cause I am over in germany and I had to go through 2 people to talk to the guy. My main question is though I have tightened them up twice so far after he tried to adjust them right and they are ticking quite loud on the left side. Could it just be that he never loadedn the lifters correct and they are still seating themselves or something wrong? The engine only has maybe 1500 miles on it at most. Any help would be appreciated guys.

 

What's the lift on your cam if you dont mind me ask. The problem with the stock rockers is the shorts slot that doesn't allow high lifts. The other issue is that the stock rockers ratio is inconsistant according to test done by David Vizard. There are aftermarket stamped rockers that have these issues addressed, and the only reason for using them is for the class regulation.

 

If spring pressure and lift are not out of hand the stock rockers will work.

 

I need to call the place that built my engine and ask them to send me all the specs on it. I know the cam isn't too bad cause it idles pretty smooth but man does she have a nice throaty idle to her. I just feel retarded sometimes cause I know about engines but I have no idea what is in mine since I wan't there to pick the parts and stuff. I know they had to make a cam for my engine though cause the one they used at first made the valves hit the pistons. I'll try and get that info as quickly as possible so you can better understand my engine as well as me understand it better.

 

The stock rockers are actually pretty decent as long as the load they are expected to carry isnt too great, There are racing bodies out there that in some classes require the use of stamped rockers and they do it by keeping spring pressure below 350#s and list below .500, a little more and it cuts into the life of them.

 

The good news is if your bottom end was done correctly, you can do the top end yourself and in addition to learning alot, will be confident that it is done correctly.

Until you provide us with the particulars, your responses are going to be incomplete.

Assuming you have a non-stock cam, selecting your top end (valve train) will need to take this info into consideration to have a balanced and sound valve train.

RRs are superior to stock rockers and of course, you need springs to match your cam and rockers and correct pushrods to maintain geometry.

This site can walk you through the process, but we will need all the information about your engine and what was done to it, in addition to what you expect.

 

If ya upped the spring pressure ya should get the half round ***** under the adj nut with the slots in them for extra oil where they meet the rocker. As has been mentioned the slots in the stock rocker's may not allow your lift and be hitting the stud which will bend pushrods and break things.

 

Ok I got as much info as my mechanic could give me... Here is what he told me

Cam is a Crowler
Intake lift 262 degrees at .495
Exhaust lift 266 degrees at .513
Scat crank with scat pistons.
Stock push rods and rockers
AC Delco 26lb Injectors
JBA mid headers W/3in pipe, high flow cat and a 2 chamber flowmaster
MSD 6 Ignition, wires, blaster coil
Hypertech Chip <---- wanna say PowerTech.. Cant remember the name
Suncoast ram-air hood with airbox
4 point strut brace

That's about all I can think of for what I have done to it. Right now my EGR solenoid is throwing a code so she is idleing a lil rough but still has plenty of power.

 

With that lift it still may be "iffy" depending on push rod length. Ya can take a paper clip (about .050) and bend it at 90* and see if it will slip between your stud and the rocker slot underneath the rocker on the valve side at full lift. Do that on all and see. If some don't clear take them off and lengthen the slot with a rotary file and air die grinder.If ya take them off ya can use the die grinder and a 1/8" cut off wheel to cut the 3 oil grove's in each pivot ball. Make them equal distant around the curved side and about 1/8" deep.