Looking for some input on how to deal with a wrist pin knock issue - yes, i know there's no cheap fix for the problem - I'm looking for advice and input on the folowing options. All work will be done by a shop since I no longer have time to do my own engine work. Don't get to hung up on power estimates, they're WAG's from the shop and this site's memeber's cars.

1. Get a used turn key LT1 and drop it in. Keep the old motor and swap over the hi-po stuff as opportunity permits.
Expected cost = $2500, expected power (w/bolt ons) 295HP, 315ft/lb
Pros = gets me back in the car, enjoying summer with minimal cost and time.
Cons = it wasn't enough power the first time and I'll want more quickly

2. Do an OEM 350 rebuild, put all the top end goodies/olt ons back in/on
Expected cost = $4300 expected power 350HP, 375 ft/lb
Pros = Acceptable power and reliability
Cons = Quite a bit of $ to put it back to where it was after the last work done

3. Do a pro stock 350 rebuild (forged internals) put all the top end and bolt on stuff back on/in
Expected cost = $5000, expected power 350+HP, 375+ ft/lb
Pros = Acceptable power, good reliability
Cons - A whole lotta $'s to not get more power in the deal

4. Do a pro stock 383 rebuild (forged & balanced internals), heads/cam/intake will work with or compliment the 383 package.
Expected cost $6000, expected power 370HP, 450 ft/lb
Pros = the power I want with good reliability
Cons = It's a lotta $'s and I'd have a combined $11k into the motor after last years top end and this years bottom end work.

5. Dump the '95 w/wrist pin knock for whatever I can get for it ($1000?) and find a nice '2000 SS LS1.....
Expected cost $7000 - $9000, expected power (w/bolt ons) 325HP, 350 ft lb
Pros = newer more reliable car with good reliability and acceptable power
Cons = start the learning curve of a new platform all over again.

option 6 was going to be "get a C-5 or C-6 'vette", but that won't work in this economy.

What would you do?

 

Think you are confusing "piston slap".

 

well obviously I can't say for sure until we go in and dissect it but my shop guy, whom I trust, seems pretty sure it's a wrist pin starting to knock.....and it is only a single knock, not a bunch of noise like piston slap usually is....plus piston slap doesn't usually get worse as quickly as this did. Again, according to my shop, they feel stock cast pistons on a hi mile engine are weak at high RPM...We spent about 30 minutes running it, listening to it and developing and eliminating theories....so far wrist pion knock is the most likely culprit. It's bad enough that I'm not driving it until it gets torn down.

 

How many miles on it? How many of those miles have you owned it and was any of those miles on giggle gas?

 

The engine and car had about 105k on it when I bought it a few years ago. It's never been sprayed and is stock bottom end with a good shop rebuild on the top end at 130k miles. Custom ported heads, custom cam and edelbrock LT4 intake. Everything else is bolt ons or stock. The car ran great, but developed this knock after about 5k miles and several bumps up gainst the rev limiter (stock setting). Oil pressure's always been good and the engine passed a leak down compression check before we rebuilt the top end.

The question in my mind is not so much is my engine toast (the noise tells me it is) but what's my best path going forward - junk it and start over, do an OEM rebuild or go big with a pro street 383?

I don't need it to be the fastest car in town, but I want to be able to stomp on it and go sideways, whenever I want, without it breaking.

Thanks for the interest and input

 

From your post I would go pick up a b-body lt1. I got one for 300 with a 102k on it. Then swap over your heads and stuff on it. With the money you save get some more power out of it.

Keep in mind the b-bodys lt1's are highly unlikely to have been dogged like ours.

 

2fast4u, thanks for the reminder, I had forgotten that the LT was in B bodies, and I think you're correct, probably less abuse on a b body engine, good thought thank you. I'll do a site search for B body LT engines and look at what's invloved in a swap.

I watched a news report last night that had a guest that presented a compelling arguement for gas prices going over $5/gal within the next 1 - 2 years....and never going below $5/gal ever again....so that has tilted the scales a little more in favor of NOT putting $6k into a 383, since I'd pretty much never drive it at gas prices over $5.

While the Heads/cam/intake improved performance a good bit, it also brought my hiway gas mileage down from about 28 - 29 mpg to about 25-26 mpg, and I expect the 383 would takle it down a couple more mpg....yeah. yeah, I know ya can't have your cake and eat it too, but I gotta be practical about the $$. I have to say I think the era of hi cube, daily driver street muscle cars is drawing to an end. It may be time to look at a low cube hi efficiency engine in a light weight sports car platform (something like the honda S2000)

 

did you get yours from a junkyard? I'm guessing so at that price. Did you take the engine out from the top or bottom? I know there's lots of posts on the pros and cons of each method, just wanted to hear your experience and thoughts. thanks man

 

The motors are the same. Just the cam and heads are different. Which the b-body bottom ends are cheaper. I found mine using car-parts.com about 2 hours away. Yes I got it out of the junkyard.

And I dropped everything out the bottom. I use a lift most of the time to do it at the body shop. But it blew right before the house. So I wrapped a strap around the front after taking the battery/coolant overflow bottle out. Then the intake. Hooked it to the engine crane and away I went. Bottom is so much easier also.

 

thanks brother, appreciate your input. I wish I could justify the 383, but I don't think I can do it in the current situation, and getting the car back on the road to enjoy is more important...I'm off to search the junkyards for a cheap LT!