While im waiting for the tool to fix my #2 spark plug threads, i am going to try to figure out what else could be causeing my "not as fast" problem.

I installed Hooker Lt's, Mufflex O/R Y (Deleted the Cat), and deleted the AIR and EGR. CEL is NOT on, but my car still will not roast the tires in first gear like it used to. It wont even break them loose. Car idles smooth and everything, but sometimes as a low rpm/high load stumble or miss. I just switched my plugs to ngk tr55's from crappy bosch's, and i replaced my plug wires. Im hoping this fixes the problem. Any other ideas of what the issue could be? Something to do with deleting the egr maybe?

Also newb question about arcing: as long as no wire or metal on the spark plug wires is showing, there can be no arcing right? (As long as there is still silicone insulating the wires)

 

If you have a spark plug that won't screw in tight because of stripped threads, its not going to run very well.

When you installed the headers, did you check for exhaust leaks before the O2 sensors? That will cause it to run rich. Any misfires from burned wires will also cause it to run excessively rich. Is it possible you contaminated the O2 sensors when you installed them? Often, coated headers seem to damage the sensors on the initial heat cycles. Are your headers cera-metallic (e.g. Jet Hot, Airborne) coated?

Its possible for the wires to arc even if there is no metal showing. Burned insulation will not "insulate" very well at 30,000 Volts.

In a 95, as long as there is a good fuse in the AIR pump circuit, it will not set the SES light. For the EGR, the flow diagnostic is not very sensitive for OBD-I, so no code is not unusual. If you deleted the EGR solenoid, you should have a code for that. Deleting EGR and AIR will not add any performance.

How did you block off the EGR openings on the back of the intake manifold? Did you plug the vacuum nipple for the EGR vacuum hose?

 

I used Block off plates. Where is the vacume nipple for the EGR vacume hose? Im not sure if i blocked this or not.

 

sounds like possible intake manifold air leak...
carefully spray some staring fluid around the intake (the intake on the block) especially the area where the egr block off plates are while at idle and see if it idle comes up... carefully!

 

would carb cleaner work? My uncle is a mechanic and he did this when he was looking for a vacume leak on my old formula. When you say be careful, what am i being careful of? Opti and other electrical stuff? Or is it possible i could blow myself up haha

 

[QUOTE=Injuneer;5405475]If you have a spark plug that won't screw in tight because of stripped threads, its not going to run very well.QUOTE]

I havent started it yet. Im waiting for my back-tap rethreader to come in the mail before i put in the plug and mnake things worse. Right now im just trying to consider other possible issues if new plugs and wires doesnt correct the issue.

 

You will probably feel a difference with those plugs. JMHO

 

Courtesy of Shoebox:

http://shbox.com/1/egr1.jpg

When you installed the blockoff plates, did you use gaskets, or sensor-safe RTV?

 

back from the dead. Im going to check for exhaust leaks, vac leaks and intake leaks tommorow when i egt home before i throw money for new o2 sensors