Is there an alternative to the steampipe seal? I called the dealer and they are $7 each. Can I go to the hardware store and get a $.25 teflon seal to replace it? Any help would be appriciated i just cant justify spending about $20 for 2 rubber washers. Thanks-Joe

 

If you can find a captured rubber seal of the same size it would be great, but a teflon seal if torqued properly should hold water as well.

 

Do you or anybody else have the dimentions of the seal? My motor did not come with the gaskets. Thanks-Joe

 

The inside hole I do beleive is a 7/16 hole, but I think it is metric. I would get the width at around 1.25 inches. After thinking about it I would also put a thin coat of silicone on the seal as extra assurance.

On my 93 I coated a set of torn and wore out seals with high temp silicone and it lasted for about 6 years until I tore the motor down again.

 

I'm pretty sure that Earl's sells an equiv. product (rubberized washer basically). You might wanna check on those. Given the cost of AN stuff though, I don't know if it would be any cheaper to go with Earl's stuff than the factory washers.

Did a quick search...

http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLin.../StatSeal.html

Dave C.

 

Thanks guys. Those seals are exactly like the GM seals. I think im just going to try the nylon washers and silicone for now. I have to get my motor into the S-10. Thanks again-Joe

 

i would just go ahead and buy the right ones for peace of mind. They are not just rubber gaskets. It has metal around the outside. Your idea might work but the dealership ones will work. $14 ain't that bad.

 

I just now saw that there are 4 of them. 2 between the heads and pipe and 2 between the pipe and bolts. So $28 opposed to $1 I know that it will seal with nylon washers and silicone. The motor will be out this winter for a cam swap anyways and some other misc stuff. i can get the right gaskets then.

 

Just keep in mind that they are a PAIN in the butt to R+R with the motor in the car. Just about the worst thing to get to on the whole engine. I dunno man, I would stick with the stock design.

 

Dal or Jason's price is less than $4 ea. The Earls seals are similar, but I would not call them exactly the same.
I hope you have good luck with whatever you do. I hope you are not taking a chance for the sake of $$ or time. I learned a long time ago that it does not always pay off.

 

What are their websites? Ive heard of them but no website.

 

One thing to consider after thinking about this, is make sure that the teflon washers are thin enough that the holes in the bolt are well inside the head and the crossover.

On an S-10 stuff is alot more accessible oon the back

 

Oh and Shoebox, you have no idea how invaluable your site was to my S-10 LT1 conversion.

And another thing to add , if you overtighten the teflon it may crack and cause a leak, so take care with that.

 

I think im going to go with nylon instead of teflon. It is alot stronger and with a silicone sealer i shouldnt have to worry about them leaking. I figure if the oil pan drain plug can hold the oil then a nylon washer (same as the drain plug washer) should work nicely.

 

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#Dal_and_Jason

The oil pan plug seal does not have to hold pressure like what is in the cooling system.