well here it is in a nutshell. It takes about 5-10 seconds of cranking to get the car to start.

The long story...
I had this problem not too long ago and it went away. but now its back and won't go away this time. I had been working on the car about 6 months ago doing a six speed swap and everything went real well. I took my time doing everything right the first time and was only working on it a couple hours a week and also did some other changes while I had the interior stripped.
But here is the deal, I pulled my opti this time and found corrosion all over the place inside the connector that goes to the wiring harness. I cleaned all that out and the proceeded to remove the opti for further inspection and when I opened it everything else looked great. I went ahead and cleaned everything up and put it back together. (Let me mention that before I cleaned the corrosion I had a no- start problem) so I put everything back together and put a new Ignition control module on and check my MSD blaster coil just to make sure that nothing was overlooked. I checked out all my fuel lines, pressure is good, ( i run a FP guage inside the cockpit) my af ratio at cranking is good and I made sure that it is not losing pressure at cranking also. But Now it takes about 5-10 seconds of solid cranking before it fires up.
I have a constant service enging light, My fans stay on all the time and it still gets hot. I have replaced the opti about a year ago, I did the update to the newer vented and it has about 10,000 miles on it, I have all new fuel components ( pump, injectors, regulator, and guage) my question is why does it take so long before it fires over? could my plugs be so fouled that they won't fire until they get warmed up or somthing? It seems to run fine after it gets started up to about 5,000 rpm and then it starts to stutter a little, but I have checked everything! And am at a loss! So please help! I hate sitting in a parking lot and cranking it over for so long and then it finally decides to fire up. Sorry the post is so long but had to get it all out!

 

O.k today I took the car to O'reillys and borrowed a tech scanning tool and it gave me the stored codes of 36 and 41 I looked these up and 36 references to the distributor Ignition system (something about a high resolution pulse or extra low resolution pulse detected. And 41 said something about Ignition Control circuit (open Circuit).
Can anyone shed some light on these for a 94 Are these the right codes for a 94 and can someone with some real inteligence about these let me know what I need to be looking for, so I am not just buying parts that I don't need. Thanks

 

First I always thank Rob for putting up the diagram below.
Refer to this drawing for this discussion.
http://shbox.com/1/95_ign_system_schematic.jpg

A 94 uses the same exact layout.

Code 36 as you mentioned is the high resolution feed back signal from the opti to the PCM on the purple/white wire in the diagram. Since you mentioned that you had corrosion on the wire harness to the opti, chances are good the cleaning you did, didn't work and the harness is still bad. We've gone round and round about what causes the corrosion and we still don't know. I even tried soaking one in antifreeze for days and that didn't cause the spare harness I have to corrode.

If the connector in the opti also shows corrosion, I doubt you will be able to clean it out of the connector since it is shrouded. Replace either as necessary.

As for DTC41, that's a little tougher. The PCM uses the opti feedback signals to trigger the pulse to ICM. DTC41 will set when the signal from the PCM to ICM on the white wire, circuit 423 in the diagram, exceeds 4.6 VAC. My feeling would be to correct the problem on the hi res signal wire first and see what happens. Of course, clear the codes first before you try it. If the 41 returns then start checking the ICM and it's associated signals. We can help with that if you need to go that far.

Let us know how you make out.

Dave

 

Thanks for the reply slopokrodrigez I will be looking at the purple/white wire to see if there is somewhere that might be corroded and also looking at the connector again. As far as cleaning on the opti part I completely dissasembled it and removed the white shroud part so that I could get closer to the connection, I used a slow speed dremel and a small wire wheel and got it cleaned.
I do know how the corrosion came about on my car though... It sat for almost 10 months straight last year while I did some interior work and trasmission swap. So that alone tells me that it gave to corrosion plus my last battery had a bad corrosion problem. That might have been a donating problem as well. Thanks again for the help. headed out to the shop right now to look it over (today is veterans day and government officials have the day off!

 

Ok I took apart the connector between the engine harness and the opti and re-did the wires and end connections with some from Radio Shack and that helped allot! I still every once in a while have a problem with it cutting out and dying and I have to go under the hood and wiggle it to get it to connect as the connectors I got were not the exact same. So I will still need to get a pigtail connector. Does any one have an extra!??
I also have and extremely slight problem when I mash the pedal and I am all the way on the floor with the pedal It has a stumble sort of miss could this be related in any way to my current problem or something else?

 

I have a spare that I will take to work with me today. Email me at certified.lawn@verizon.net with name and address and I'll UPS it to you.

As far as your problem of cutting out is concerned. You must be having a problem with the low res signal from the opti as well. The code 36 from the opti for hi res will not cut the engine out. Not only will the low res cut the engine off, it will also throw a code. But, a code 16 will not set a SES light. Scan it when you get a chance and make a note of the code and then clear it.

I would suggest you get a new opti and try the harness I'll send you. Once you get this annoying problem fixed, you start to work on any others, but you need it consistant to find them.

Dave

 

does that harness fit the vented style? As far as the stumble will a map sensor cause that? Just a q?

 

Do you still have the original MAF??? If so clean it and put it on the car.

 

nope I don't have the original maf I have one of the z06 80mm mafs I might still have a look at it though.