OK ....the starter clicks really fast ...but that is it..

I have the taylor wire kit that came with the box....
Bat is a red top with the charger on it for the last few days to keep it fresh

Power wires
ok 1 ga wire from the battery to the starter
starter to the alt 1 ga
alt to D box on the fender 1 ga

Grounds
from battery to the frame in the back bolted to the frame (sanded the frame)
front frame (add bolt) to starter bolt
from eng to frame
from fender ground to frame

just add from bat to eng ground 4 ga ...still will not start....


HELP

any ideas.......

Should i up the wire in the car to 0 power and grounds
do i need sub frames to tie the frame and compleat the the ground in the car

 

I thought 0 was the way to go... it's a long wire with a lot of resistance.

 

You need 0 gauge. Do a search there are a couple decent posts on the subject.

 

So you fig that 0 ga is what i need........

-is there any other ways to run the wire ground/power....
-are sub frames needed

any other info would be great

thanks

 

I used 4 gauge and the car wouldn't start unless I jumped it off with another running car. I got so tired of messing with it I just put the battery back up front.

If you're having these problems with 1 gauge, I'm not sure that 0 gauge will fix it- 0 gauge is not that much bigger.

 

Don't need subframes. Don't really know what the problem might be.

 

Anyone have any other ideas to add ???

 

I ran 0 gauge on mine no problems at all.

First check the voltage across the terminals on the battery.

Now check what it is at the starter + ground block. If you seeing a decent drop you need to up your wire setup to 0.

Also the wire that you picked up with their kit is it a really fine strand wire. My guess is that it will be but just making sure. I have seen some people use househould wiring that is meant for a ground on a house and it only has like 8large strands and that will not allow enough current flow.

The wire I ended up using was just from an electrical supply house and it was meant for the leads on a welder. It was just under a buck a foot. Copper has gone up a bunch since then but that will likely be your cheapest way to upgrade.

 

thanks for the info .....

How much diff is there from 1ga to 0ga wire...

right now i have a bast charger on crank and my bat volt is (in the car 16 17 v ) then when i crank it it drop down to 8 volt on the gauage...

Now that is a HUGE would stepping up to 0 help out here....

thanks

 

i have the zero guage,and grounded the rear to the bumper bolt..after sanding the area... gets excellent voltage.

 

Use double "0" and it will work every time. Is the size of small welding cable.

 

I had the same problem and found out the cause. The "security relay" or what ever you call does not like the reduced voltage. I have "0" welding cable and it still does not work. My cure was to install a small relay under the
hood. This will bypass the VATS (I just remembered what it is called) but only the engine cranking portion of it. Now If someone tried to "hot wire" my car, the engine would crank but would not start. I ran a wire from my clutch switch (neutral safety if auto) to the relay under the hood. This is before the VATS module, so the engine will crank no matter what the VATS module does. The relay under the hood gets battery power and then "turns on" the starter. My buddy re-located his battery also and had the same problem. He replaced the starter and battery and still had the same problem. He put the battery back under the hood and never had a problem again. With cable that big I find it hard to imagine there is much voltage drop, but apparently there is enough to cause a problem.

 

Could you post up some pics or do you have a wiring Diagram to show this or could anyone post one up......

thanks

 

would this help or work ?

http://shbox.com/1/vats_bypass.jpg

 

for what he described, no