Starting a 383 build
Starting a 383 build
Working on deciding what to do with this build. I only drive the car when messing around and when I can make it to the track.
I plan on getting all the machine work done right and fron what Ive read it will add up so im looing for suggestions on budget parts for the rotating assembly ect.
150-200 shot on it and AI or LE head package since I have a new set of heads on the motor that is currently in my car now.
I plan on getting all the machine work done right and fron what Ive read it will add up so im looing for suggestions on budget parts for the rotating assembly ect.
150-200 shot on it and AI or LE head package since I have a new set of heads on the motor that is currently in my car now.
Mahle power pack pistons. Eagle forged SIR rods, scat 9000 cast crank.
Beware of budget n2o builds. Scat and Eagle are going to be cheaper than most other guys. And a 400rwhp car with a 150-200 shot is when you may want to go completely forged so think about how greddy everyone gets with n2o??
I would also address the mains, use n2o piston rings, etc. Build the motor right the first time instead of the 2nd.
Beware of budget n2o builds. Scat and Eagle are going to be cheaper than most other guys. And a 400rwhp car with a 150-200 shot is when you may want to go completely forged so think about how greddy everyone gets with n2o??
I would also address the mains, use n2o piston rings, etc. Build the motor right the first time instead of the 2nd.
Mahle recommends no bigger than a 150 shot on their power pack piston sets.
I'd elect to go Scat as a minimum and maybe for a few dollars more, step up to the Compstar stuff. A well built short block with a set of AI 200cc heads and a sane HR cam from them, as well as well-thought out supporting parts, will give you a rush everytime you drive it and many miles of good service. Ron and Phil have done this a few times - give them a call.
I'd elect to go Scat as a minimum and maybe for a few dollars more, step up to the Compstar stuff. A well built short block with a set of AI 200cc heads and a sane HR cam from them, as well as well-thought out supporting parts, will give you a rush everytime you drive it and many miles of good service. Ron and Phil have done this a few times - give them a call.
I intended on going forged just wasnt sure where to start from there. Everyone I know here runs dirt cars or big blocks. So mahle would be a no go I guess, The callises assembly I found have mahle pistons for 2100 then the dragon slayer and lunati kits are 24-2500.
Last edited by black/blue; Aug 27, 2008 at 10:20 AM.
Good luck, I asked the same Question about a week ago.. It was a dead thread when it set sail. Looks like I'm going with the Mahle pistons And I'm going to spray a 200 on them And I've heard of other people doing the same even though they don't recommend it but heck you can spray a 100 shot on the stockers so why couldn't you spray 200 on a forged unit?
Build it strong now, because once you get on the power it's easy to get "bored" and push for more at which time you will need the stronger parts.
For a budget build I would highly recommend the Compstar, or a K1 crank, Compstar, Manley, or Scat H-beam rods (6.0"). For pistons a JE nitrous piston would be the best choice - if you are starting with a 200 shot, it's only a matter of time before you are going higher. Wiseco also makes some nice nitrous pistons.
I have not used that much nitrous on stock LT1 heads, are you guys having any deck rigidity issues at those cylinder pressure levels?
For a budget build I would highly recommend the Compstar, or a K1 crank, Compstar, Manley, or Scat H-beam rods (6.0"). For pistons a JE nitrous piston would be the best choice - if you are starting with a 200 shot, it's only a matter of time before you are going higher. Wiseco also makes some nice nitrous pistons.
I have not used that much nitrous on stock LT1 heads, are you guys having any deck rigidity issues at those cylinder pressure levels?
Build it strong now, because once you get on the power it's easy to get "bored" and push for more at which time you will need the stronger parts.
For a budget build I would highly recommend the Compstar, or a K1 crank, Compstar, Manley, or Scat H-beam rods (6.0"). For pistons a JE nitrous piston would be the best choice - if you are starting with a 200 shot, it's only a matter of time before you are going higher. Wiseco also makes some nice nitrous pistons.
I have not used that much nitrous on stock LT1 heads, are you guys having any deck rigidity issues at those cylinder pressure levels?
For a budget build I would highly recommend the Compstar, or a K1 crank, Compstar, Manley, or Scat H-beam rods (6.0"). For pistons a JE nitrous piston would be the best choice - if you are starting with a 200 shot, it's only a matter of time before you are going higher. Wiseco also makes some nice nitrous pistons.
I have not used that much nitrous on stock LT1 heads, are you guys having any deck rigidity issues at those cylinder pressure levels?
use some arp head bolts, JE or another very good piston,(Ross, Diamond) and have the rings gapped for n2o.
You may even want to build a n2o motor, a 200 shot is boarder line, going fully forged and expensive may be your ticket to doing this once. I would really think about your n2o use. It will dictate how much bottom end you will need.
You may even want to build a n2o motor, a 200 shot is boarder line, going fully forged and expensive may be your ticket to doing this once. I would really think about your n2o use. It will dictate how much bottom end you will need.


