Swapped a 95 lt1 to a 94, added a push to start signal wire to small post on the starter with the theft deterrent relay cable, it wouldn’t start when I clicked the button and would make a loud click and kill the battery, then tried the screwdriver method and it arced throwing sparks, what could be causing this? Bought a new starter to see if it still does the same thing with a new one?

 

Doubt anyone left here (not many of us left) has done a push-to-start conversion.

Did you disconnect the purple starter solenoid wire?

What did you convert from 95 to 94? Not a lot of wiring differences (PCM BAT fuse, extra torque converter lockup wire).

 

Not here ain’t many of us left, but I am for one glad you are still around Injuneer! No help to OP and this is the first I have seen of push start on a 4th Gen myself.

 

Odd thing is he signed in around midnight last night, but didn’t respond to my question. Also tacked his question on to an old post, but no replies besides mine.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...roblem-684839/

 

Well, if he shows back up maybe this can help him.

I did a push button start on my '94 many years ago. I tucked this diagram into the Helms manual and managed to actually remember I had it and dug it out. I took the key completely out of the system and used two rocker switches for Accessory and Ignition. I mounted the switches and the starter button in a panel on the center console where the little storage bin was. I used three relays, one for each switch and the start button. The button was from a Honda S2000.

OP, even if you don't do something this complicated, I would definitely use a relay with that push button switch.

 

Frustrating when people don’t follow up. That's why I've started posting brief responses to the initial post, asking a couple questions like above. That way if they don’t come back, or don’t follow up, I haven’t wasted a whole lot of time.

 

That’s more and more common on forums these days. Definitely a phase shift compared to what I was used to when I was still actively working on the LT1 platform. One day I hope to get back to it. The car has been sitting in storage for over a decade as life and other projects got in the way. Slowly trying to ramp back into working on the old girl again. Seems like there might not be anyone left who knows anything by the time that happens.

 

This is how I set up the rocker switches. I wish the interior still looked this good. Cars aren't meant to just sit for years. They take more wear from not being used.

 

Good to see I'm not the only one that went crazy with my interior……

I realized I had pretty much “aged out” of making 9-second, 130+ MPH passes. Sold the Formula 2 years ago. New owner is bumping up the power, keeping the car as pristine as the day he bought it. Lives in NJ, so I have “visitation rights”.

 

Looks great. Very clean and well thought out. A 2-DIN swap was the next in the que but shortly thereafter life changed, I lost interest, and the rest is history. I’m hoping I have the time, money, and motivation to get back on it soon so the car can be a father-son project. He’ll be old enough sooner than later to actually start helping instead of “helping” like he does now.

 

I know old post BUT, this looks fantastic Injunee! Love that steering wheel! You’re gonna have to pass along where you got it and the in’s and out’s of installing and wiring or whatever for air bag deletion and such.

i like the rocker switch’s location. I have been trying to figure out where to locate mine for waterpump switch. Was gonna use ash tray with a drop in plate, but plate was made for standard and I have an auto.

but at any rate well done, even if the car is no longer yours!

 

Steering wheel is a Grant, picked up at a local auto parts store. Cheapest and lightest I could find. Installed using the Grant install kit for a 3rd Gen F-Body. Grant wouldn’t make/sell a 4th Gen kit because they didn’t want any liability for removing the air bag. There's also a Grant “billet” 1” spacer between the stock column and the steering wheel. All those extra parts were purchased directly from Grant. The trim ring that abuts the stock steering column cover is just a fraction of an inch smaller than the steering column cover, but difference became invisible with a touch of a black magic marker. Steering wheel was installed at least 20 years ago.

Air bag system has been deactivated. I saw an air bag explode in the racers face on a hard launch at the track. Figured the FIA-certified Corbeau seat, the date-correct Simpson 5-point harness, roll bar with SFI padding, and a Simpson open-face helmet would keep me safe. There was also a 5-point harness for the stock passenger seat.

Guy who bought my car swapped the steering wheel out for one that is removable for access, put his wide-band in the radio blanking plate, swapped the seat to a Kirkey aluminum. He's a bit heavier than my 80+ year old carcass, and needed more room. He has to upgrade the roll bar to an NHRA certified cage. His local track lets him run high 9’s with just the roll bar. But that was with a 200-shot (9.904 best ET, 137.7 best MPH, 1.266-second 60-ft). He's bumped the nitrous up to 250, done his own tune on the street, and trying to get to the track ASAP. My local track (Englishtown, Old Bridge Twp Raceway Park) was a real stickler on the full cage. Run under 10.0 without it, no time slip, and “do it again and you can leave”.