i spun a rod bearing and i need to know whats the best option for fixing my car. should i just have the whole thing rebuilt? should i just find a low milage junk yard long block and swap it out? or should i just get a new short block? kinda just looking for input.

 

You might wan to provide the mileage on the engine and any other general health info about it.

 

The answer really depends on your ability and if the Camaro is your primary transportation. If you have another car and you can rebuild the motor you self, I would rebuild it. If you don't have another car, it might be a good idea to get a used motor and rebuild your in the mean time. After which you can resell the used one. If you don't have the ability to do the work yourself, you might want to buy a longblock and have it installed. The answer depends totaly on you ability, transportation situation, and money.

Hope that helps.

 

Yeah , its all up to you, if you have the cash and can stand the car being down for several months the sky is the limit. Be careful with credit cards , they are the devil....lol.

383 s with a cast steel crank, factory reconditioned powdered rods (new bolts sonic tested etc) and some forged pistons, make a nice shortblock. then you just have to have the cash for the nice heads, cam and tuning. (along with all the other accompanying stuff, look to spend 5 grand)
Or you could build a 355 with a cast steel crank recondition your rods, and some forged pistons, price is still high.

Or you could just build the shortblock and heads now, and when you have more cash you can get a cam and all the other stuff (exhaust etc).

And then you could allways find a good motor in a salvage yard with a guarantee on it.

 

i spun a rod bearing in my z im just boring .030 over and reduing it with all forged for nitrous

 

Well, you can look at it two ways:
ON one hand,it sucks that something broke and you are going to need to fix it.
On the other hand, it is time for either strokerville or even 355town you can get some 355s for VERY affordable prices. I know a guy her in Dallas (comes HIGHLY recommended from teh LSx and LTx crowds) who can do a fully forged 355 for 1550.00 That is for parts, machining, and labor. Not too shabby. And I believe everything is forged (crank might not be).

Good luck

 

Thats a very good price for a built motor ready to go in, When I bult my old 355 set-up in my 93 I built the shortblock for almost dirt, heres a list of parts...

Cast steel crank (manufacturer says it will hold over 500 hp no problem)
197$
Forged I beamrods (renegade 5140 with ARP bolts ,6") 148$
SRP Pistons (no way around good pistons price)..550$
Rings..110$
Bearings..98$
Machineshop (included deck plane bore and hone,vatting,cam bearing install,brass freeze plugs, and clean deck surfaces and balancing)..
360$
Home ported heads, added 2.00 int/1.56 exh valves very nice valve job and guide work....410$
Gaskets...130$
7/16 studs, rocker (comp pro mags),pushrods,cam (reused stock lifters) and springs...630$
Oil pump and screen, various lubes ,and new torque wrench with appropriate sockets...140$
Engine stand ...40$
Oil and filter, antifreeze, 1 qt tranny fluid...25$

This of cource doesnt include the tune and adding the intake,fuel sys, and exhaust to complement.

It allopens a big ball of wax (but it is payed for in the grin on your face)

 

well the car has 96,000 miles on it, it only spun the rod bearing because it got stuck in wide open throttle in first gear and when i shut it down un stock the throttle then started it back up it was too late. i wont be doing the work myself, my uncle has his own shop and one of the guys their is ognna do it for 500 bucks, however i wanna do it, junk yard engine, whatever. so the 500 to pay him will be cash out of my pocket, then i have a small line of credit up to about 1,500$ dollars.

knowing my budget of 1,500$ dollars not for just parts let me hear your guy's thoughts now. i have access to another car for maybe another month now, its my sister and she doesn't get her license for another month.

 

I would get new rod bolts , a scat cast steel 3.48 inch stroke crank, forged pistons , and then the rebuild kit. This should run you as follows...

Crank 200$
Rods 100$ (price of new rod bolts installation and magnafluxing)
Pistons 250-300$ (speed Pro forged 2 valve releif, not the heavy 4 valve releif flats)
Machine shop.. 100$ torque plate hone, 40$ vat, 100$ freeze plugs and cam bearing w/install,130$ balancing.
Gaskets 120$
Oilpump 15-20$
paint 5$

this adds up to 975 $ taking the higher figures I quoted.

Is the 1500$ including the shops 500$?
If not then you can get a cam and springs , and get your heads reconditioned.and fit just under the 1500 $

Of course you'll need a little tuning to complement the cam.

If the block does not need bored you can save the bore and hone cost right there. Just get appropriate pistons.

 

that sounds a little out of my range. i dont really have the know how or the space to do anything like that. for 500$ the guy is ognna take out my engine and i can either send it out to get rebuilt, or i can supply him with like a low milage junk yard engine, or i can just give him a shortblock and he can put all my stuff my back on it.

i am actually not looking to get nuts with it, but if there is somehting that i should probably do now while the engine is out let me know. nothing like new heads but anything small like maybe a cam or whatnot.

 

Yeah then I would just change gaskets on a junkyard low mileage motor, and maybe add like a hottcam or something, headers and get it tuned.

 

http://www.golenengineservice.com/

check out the 383 lt4 stroker on that site. a little pricey, but just wanted you to keep your options open. wish i would have seen that site when i spun a bearing . i spent about $4k in repairs to replace mine with a stock (new) lt1. oh, if i could go back in time....