Spun bearing....help inside
05-17-2004, 11:36 AM
#1
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Spun bearing....help inside
I'm pretty sure I have a spun bearing. Last oil change, there was glitter in my oil.
Last week, I started hearing a squaeling sound, which seems to be coming from the cottom end. 150 miles later (yesterday), I started haring a light grinding sound (like the sound that the chain on a sport bike makes)...which leads me to nelieve that I have a spun bearing.
Assuming that I do a stock-spec rebuild, how much $$ am I looking at spending, as far as labor? How is that rebuild kit that Summit sells and does GM offer a similar kit?
Assuming the block, etc is salvagable, how much is it going to run me, ball park?
Last week, I started hearing a squaeling sound, which seems to be coming from the cottom end. 150 miles later (yesterday), I started haring a light grinding sound (like the sound that the chain on a sport bike makes)...which leads me to nelieve that I have a spun bearing.
Assuming that I do a stock-spec rebuild, how much $$ am I looking at spending, as far as labor? How is that rebuild kit that Summit sells and does GM offer a similar kit?
Assuming the block, etc is salvagable, how much is it going to run me, ball park?
05-17-2004, 11:48 AM
#2
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Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
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If you're hearing grinding, more than like you will need a new crank. Yours will be junk.
I dunno how much shops in the states charge but up here in Canada you have one done for $2000-$2500 u.s. That includes new bearings, seals, gaskets, fasteners, machining, etc.
I dunno how much shops in the states charge but up here in Canada you have one done for $2000-$2500 u.s. That includes new bearings, seals, gaskets, fasteners, machining, etc.
05-17-2004, 11:53 AM
#3
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But before you take it to a shop and them possibly screwing you, check it out yourself. Pull the oil pan and look at the crank it see if it is marked up pretty bad. It cost me $140.00 in parts and that was to replace all bearings and a new oil pump and gaskets and all. Lucky I new someone that could get it at dealers cost though.
Just a suggestion that could end up saving you $$$
-Mike
Just a suggestion that could end up saving you $$$
-Mike
05-17-2004, 12:21 PM
#4
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Hey, thanks for the advice. How hard is it to drop the oil pan? I'm not that mechanically inclined (I do brake jobs, oil changes, general maintence). I'm assuming that you just loosen the bolts :dunno:
I know that the bearings will have marks/scrtaches on them, but how obvious are they? How difficult would they be to replace?
I know that the bearings will have marks/scrtaches on them, but how obvious are they? How difficult would they be to replace?
05-17-2004, 12:30 PM
#5
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Oh and if it ends up being the crank, you might get to save a little bit of money when you take it to the shop since you already have the pan down. It isnt much though to get the cranked fixed, so no need to worry about that, its just the labor of doing everything!
05-17-2004, 12:40 PM
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Originally posted by ONELOUDKAR
Oh and if it ends up being the crank, you might get to save a little bit of money when you take it to the shop since you already have the pan down. It isnt much though to get the cranked fixed, so no need to worry about that, its just the labor of doing everything!
Oh and if it ends up being the crank, you might get to save a little bit of money when you take it to the shop since you already have the pan down. It isnt much though to get the cranked fixed, so no need to worry about that, its just the labor of doing everything!
How hard is it to drop the oil pan?
05-17-2004, 12:43 PM
#7
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I had the pan off of mine this weekend. I have an M6 so I had to drop the K member. On and A4 all you have to do is jack the engine up. Took me probably 6 hours or so to change the oil pump. It's worth doing.
05-17-2004, 02:52 PM
#8
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Originally posted by Red96Lt1
I had the pan off of mine this weekend. I have an M6 so I had to drop the K member. On and A4 all you have to do is jack the engine up. Took me probably 6 hours or so to change the oil pump. It's worth doing.
I had the pan off of mine this weekend. I have an M6 so I had to drop the K member. On and A4 all you have to do is jack the engine up. Took me probably 6 hours or so to change the oil pump. It's worth doing.
Funny thing is that all of the power is still there (chirps 2nd hard), oil pressure is fine, the car idles perfectly, and it doesn't overheat
I'm confused
05-17-2004, 03:43 PM
#9
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Originally posted by LT1Noob
How hard is it to drop the oil pan? I'm not that mechanically inclined.........How difficult would they be to replace?
How hard is it to drop the oil pan? I'm not that mechanically inclined.........How difficult would they be to replace?
If you tackle it yourself, make sure you mark the position of each rod cap (cyl. #1, cyl. #2, etc) and the main caps (pos. #2, pos. #3, etc.). Keep the bolts and nuts with each cap also. In a nut shell, make sure everything goes back in where it came out... or you could have big problems! Even if you buy a crank and bearings kit, be sure to check the bearing gaps for correct tolerance. And it wouldnt hurt to use some assembly lube on the bearings on final assembly.
Hey! As long as you're in there... how about a high-volume oil pump! hehehehe Perfect time to do it!
wogert
1996 Camaro LT1
05-17-2004, 05:00 PM
#10
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i may be wrong but it doesn't sound like a spun bearing to me if you still have good oil pressure. i spun 7 and 8 bearings in a big block once and oil pressure went totally away. i would suggest looking at ring gear (flywheel) and torque converter bolts before dropping the pan.
05-17-2004, 05:07 PM
#11
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Originally posted by LiT1_up
i may be wrong but it doesn't sound like a spun bearing to me if you still have good oil pressure. i spun 7 and 8 bearings in a big block once and oil pressure went totally away. i would suggest looking at ring gear (flywheel) and torque converter bolts before dropping the pan.
i may be wrong but it doesn't sound like a spun bearing to me if you still have good oil pressure. i spun 7 and 8 bearings in a big block once and oil pressure went totally away. i would suggest looking at ring gear (flywheel) and torque converter bolts before dropping the pan.
It sounds like it is coming from within the engine, or from the intake. It could also be coming from the underdrive pulley area. Would it make a grinding sound if something were wrong with that? I think I'm gonna post a video.
05-19-2004, 11:18 PM
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So today, my dad drove my car because it was blocking the driveway. He drove it 25 miles each way. When I started it up, oil pressure was around 18-20 at warm idle (normal), idle was normal, no miss, surging, etc. The noise was also gone, but I think I still hear SOME squeaking...but it could b my ears playing tricks on me.
Do you think I have a spun bearing? Is it possible to drive on a spun bearing for 50 miles....or once they start spinmning does the engine go out very shortly after?
TIA.
. He drove it 25 miles each way. When I started it up, oil pressure was around 18-20 at warm idle (normal), idle was normal, no miss, surging, etc. The noise was also gone, but I think I still hear SOME squeaking...but it could b my ears playing tricks on me.Do you think I have a spun bearing? Is it possible to drive on a spun bearing for 50 miles....or once they start spinmning does the engine go out very shortly after?
TIA.
05-20-2004, 10:37 PM
#15
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personally i don't think its a spun bearing from the way you describe it, but i'm not there to listen to it. also i don't think you could drive it 50 miles and still have any oil pressure left afterwards. once they start spinning they make a herendous squealing noise you can't mistake for anything else. the thing that does concern me is the glitter in your oil.