I'm thinking of changing to conventional as I am having massive over heating problems that I havent been able to solve in my 1995 Z28

 

Splayed two bolt main block are usually as stong or stronger then factory 4 bolt main blocks.
Before you change engines you need to find out what the cooling issue is. What if it turns out NOT to be directly engine related?

 

the lt1 block that was 4 bolt wasnt a splayed 4 bolt
and from what i understand is a splayed 4 bolt is strong then a strait 4 bolt.

 

looking at your pictures... do you still drive it on the street? is that when your having over heating problems?

are you still running any type of fan system?
your car is over probably 98% of the people on heres head. might want to post in the advance section or the force induction.

 

Throw it under a scanner and see whats going on first. Flush the coolant system, make sure you are pumping water, make sure your thermostat is opening, and make sure your fans are turning on.

You know, your gauge sensor might be wrong too and it isnt overheating at all.

Just a thought.

 

Whether a "splayed" conversion is stronger than the straight 4-bolt design used on the LT1 block for the Corvettes is subject to debate. The conventional (Gen 1) SBC was never designed for a 4-bolt configuration. So any splayed conversion may actually take metal out of the web that is critical to supporting the crankshaft.

But the LT1 block was designed from the beginning knowing it would be a straight 4-bolt design, and material was put in the webs to allow the extra bolts to be included without compromising the web strength. The shop that does my work spent some time comparing the LT1 block to the GM "Bowtie" block, and found it incorporated many of the features of teh Bowtie block. They then decided to use a factory straight 4-bolt block for an engine that eventually ran at 1,125HP running 20+ of boost on a Vortech blower. After several years of use, the block was torn down and sold to someone building an 1,100HP nitrous motor.

I would not just assume a splayed 4-bolt conversion on an LT1 block or on a Gen 1 SBC block is stronger than the factory straight design.

 

did not know that.

 

Lots of great info I am comparing two bolt splayed LT1 vs two bolt splayed conventional. I drive it on the street some although I havent any this summer. I have only been at the track with it. It over heats driving, racing or sitting at an idle.I do know that the temp gauge reads 20 degrees hotter than my DFI sensor on the back side of the head. I tried two different gauges to verify that wasnt the problem.I never thought to scan it, that a great idea. I pulled the engine now thinking I had tried everything so I'm not sure if I should go ahead and build a conventional knowing the rest of the external system is more than adequit or reinstall the engine and try some more. one thing the block is half full of cement due to the horsepower

 

Also I will have to go with a newer block with a one piece rear main to accommedate the crank I already have

 

I do have two aftermarket fans o a manual switch with a 55gpm electric water pump and a garrett radiator with the large tubes

 

To my knowledge there were no 2 bolt splayed caps. Ya have to have 4 bolts with the outer bolts at an angle as pictured.
The factory LT1 'Vette 4 bolt block is just as strong as installed splayed caps.
Ya probably won't reach the limits of the factory 4 bolt mains. Something else will give up first.

splay Pronunciation (spl)
adj.
1. Spread or turned out.

 

Cody,
Did ya check your rad for being stopped up?
Did ya check your water pump to see if the impeller is still attached?
How much is it bored?
Have ya done a leak test to check for blown head gasket?
How is the A/F ratio?
Ya still got the air damn under the front?
Ya got more than a 50/50 mix of coolant?
How 'bout the thermostat.

 

People put WAY too much faith in those electrics without understanding that the 55gpm is UNRESTRICTED, the engine places serious restriction on flow.

Eventually I would like one of these WITH a stock mechanical.
http://www.stewartcomponents.net/Mer...Code=ElectPump
I asked directly and they say together it would boost flow over just the mechanical as much as 300%. Alone it flows 55gpm freeflow but the admit it is freeflow the others skirt that issue.
Seen some info on the stock mechanical pushing 66gpm at 6000rpms through the stock system, unsure if that is 100% correct but given the rwhp increase electric pumps offer it is simple physics they are using less power anf given the energy conversions going on and the fact they use less energy it is VERY basic to be able to say they flow less than the stock pump does at higher rpms.
I also asked if the inline pump would push past the stocker for cooldowns after the engine was off and they said yes, it would place further restriction but should still manage 12-15gpm.


Might sound stupid but airdams are very important to cooling, yes a $30 piece of cheap plastic trim matters.

I am confident you can solve this and keep the LT1 just need to take the road less traveled a little bit. Might contact them about wether they think the existing electric with this electric would work, I would consider an alternator upgrade then though and maybe putting the Stewart on a temp switch to reduce electrical load when it is unneeded.

 

This thread gets more & more interesting, that is anice part there!!!!!
Steve

 

In my experience that would be due to 100% of your radiator being blocked by the intercooler, not because it's an LT1 cooling system.