hey can someone give me an idea on what to get for a 355 buildup?

the car has a t56 in it right now with a 4.10, i might switch to a th350 or th400 within the next year though. id like to be able to comfortably run a 150 shot on it (will upgrade fuel system along with motor build up.. suggestions on that would be nice also) but id like to still retain plenty of n/a power. its not a daily driver, but i want to use 93 octane on it, no race gas. idle quality is not too much of a factor, but id like it to be streetable.

im just trying to plan ahead for this winter. im getting my heads worked in december and after that id like to start my 355 buildup. some suggestions from people who have done buildups similar to what im looking for?

 

bump

 

since you aint running a big shot I would go with some hypertuneic pistions basicly any after market are a billion times stronger the stock. Some stage 2 I beams rods, stock crank, complete comp cams valve tran soild roller. and a set of h bearings. Thats what i plan to do.

 

Like pulling valve covers off? You would be doin alot of that if you went solid roller. Run the lightest rod you can get, i think srp is the pretty reasonable rods now, i think a gm 847 cam would go well for the cam section, forged 10.4:1 pistons ported and polished heads and 1.6's with a set of headers. I think the t56 would do pretty well in durability but not as consistant, i personally like 4.56 gears but its all in what you want. my opion

Zach

 

I personally disagree with the above two posts and i'll get to that in a minute.

my question is why aren't you doing a 396 or at least a 383? more power, more vac, more everything, same cost +-$200




Now getting to the two previous posts;

Solid rollers are pretty crazy and radical for the street IMHO. I dont think he wants one just assuming this from his post.

hyperutectic- i disagree for a forced induction motor. HU pistons are very prone to exdpoding upon any sign of detoation (common in FI motors, 150 shot namely) and taking out the whole motor. this is why LT1's are particullary ****ty blower candiates aside from the compression (stock anyway). Lightened brittle HU pistons.
(yes, LT1 has HU pistons stock)

cam and rod comments;
unless he is looking to sqeeze every last HP out, that money spent on lighter rods will make MUCH more power when spent in valvetrain. Rods aren't really as much of a "big deal" as pistons since the majority of their weight is centered around the crank shaft. pistons are further away and centered further away. in any event, you dont need superlight stuff. you want strong stuff unless you have an unlimited budget... you wont see that much gain in lighter rods, especailly bang for buck.

Cam: i'm a very big fan of Xe cams and high lift. Very high lift. get comp R lifters and good good springs and run some higher lift.

Who is doing your heads? i suggest you have them pick your cam. If you havn't decided yet, i suggest www.cmotorsports.com for several reason;
a. you dont have the most powerful LT1 and LT1 headed LT1 in the world without knowing your ****.

b.they a forum vendor/sponsor/supporter. if anything goes wrong, you KNOW they will help you out or get their name ROMPED.

c. its combination motorsports. they have by far the best customer service rep i've seen anywhere.

d. they know their ****.

e. VERY well priced and they take their time talking to you.

you can go with someone like advanced induction, but they charge a lot more and phil seems to be a bit snooty. Hes not very customer service oriented and often times arrogent, just my two cents though.

4.56 gears:
did you read the Th400 part? that means he redlines at about 105ish, maybe 110 in his top gear.

hell even in a T-56 you dont want to be going into 5th or 6th gear. unless you plan on keeping your car in the mid to low 13 sec range, thats a **** poor gear choice. Id go with a 3.90 in a 9'' or a 3.73 since you plan to spray. that will put you in the 130 range i'm guessing at the top of your 1:1 gear (4th in t-56, 3rd in TH400) and depending on how high you want to rev.

good luck,
trey

 

ohh yea compression:
why 10.4:1?
nitrous likes big compression. Also, that cam closes the intake valve much later so compression is less than what stock is. a rough guess, you want around 11.5:1 static compression ratio depending on you cam

 

Trey brings up some great points. On a street engine, more displacement is the cheapest and easiest way to make more torque. And since torque is king on a street car, a 383/396 is the way to go. NO WAY I'd build a 355 when I can get a stroker for just a bit more.

Also, well said on the bottom end components. Money spent to gain airflow will pay huge dividends vs. buying pricey rods.

 

read further guy its NOT a daily driver thats why I think soild roller is best.

 

If this is not a street car, then why the low aspirations? A 150 shot hardly qualifies as race car material. And if I'm building a nasty car, a 355 doesn't cut it.

 

that what I was wondering. Maybe he want to rev it out beyond what a stroker can do.

 

I agree that goals are pretty vague. As for the rev part, that is a misconception. There are plenty of strokers that spin high. It's all based on material strength and balance. In all practicality, its a matter of $$$, not stroke length.

 

cool I jst never seen one spin very high. I think 7500 was my buds limit. And Another friend had a 355 which he spun to 8800 consatently.

 

GMHTP had a 383 in it a few years back that redlined at 8500 or so with a hefty solid roller. 8800 is crazy! What cam was he running?

 

Soild roller 280/280 his lift was very close to .7

 

With a cam that huge in a 355, I assume he probably didn't run it much on the street. No way that would have enough vacuum to operate power brakes! Probably sounded bitchin'!