hey everyone, i know the next couple things im going to ask/bring up have probably already been discussed but ive searched and just get half answers or dont find what im looking for....

camaro is a 97 z28, right now it is stock, i have a gmmg exhaust sitting, a k&n intake, bbk 58mm throttle body, msd opti, and some ngk plugs just sitting waiting to be installed, i had planned on ordering the msd wires part #32149 but i read somewhere that if i went with long tubes the wires wouldnt work or something along those lines, im wanting to order the kooks LTs so basically just needing to know what part number for the msd wires.....

as far as the kooks LTs, im lost on which ones i need, most of the websites i go to show a handful of different options, most of them say with air with egr, with both etc etc???? i guess im just not following it right


and last im having an issue with the temperature gauge, after ive been driving and the temp gets to normal operating temperature, if i sit idle for more than a few minutes the temp starts climbing real fast but after i start moving it drops, occasionally the low coolant light comes on but ive checked the reservoir and radiator and fluid seems fine, wasnt sure if the gauge/sensor was bad, bad thermostat, air in the system, ive read that this has been a pretty common problem but never do i find out what the problem is


thanks for any info you can give me

 

Without any actual temperatures indicated, it sounds like your cooling system is operating normally.

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#cooling

 

Which headers you want depends on whether local inspections require full emissions compliance. Technically, no long tubes are legal on an LT1, because they move the cat(s), but many states don't enforce the Federal law. But if you have a visual inspection, they will want to see both the AIR and the EGR systems connected. If you don't have a visual, but have to pass a tailpipe test, you need the EGR, or you are likely to fail for NOx. If you have no emissions testing at all, you can delete both AIR and EGR. You have to keep the O2 sensor connections, because the PCM uses the sensors to control the A/F ratio.

When the low coolant light comes on, check the radiator level because that's where the level sensor is located. If the radiator is full, the sensor may be dirty or have failed. VERY common problem. You can try cleaning the sensor. If that doesn't work get a new one. Or simply unplug the sensor and the dash light will go out. Just remember to check the level frequently.

What temperature are you calling "the normal operating"? What temperature does it get to when it idles, and "the temp starts climbing realfast"?

 

I know this is gonna sound stupid but your fans are running right?

 

I think his is doing what mine dose, it will stay about mid-range so long as I'm moving, and heat up when at idle for long periods of time, mine goes just below the 3/4 mark but never seen it above that. My old Grand Am did the same thing, kinda figured the cooling system just didn't like being stationary for long periods of time, although if its an actual problem i wouldn't mind fixing it.

 

Any car with electric fans is going to heat up more at idle. It's normal.

 

What appears as the '3/4' mark is upwards of 220-230* mark where the fans will kick on to cool the car. When you are moving the airflow keeps the temps down around the 180-200* mark.

You will need to adjust the fan temp parameters to keep your car cooler if you want. Keep in mind the factory gauges aren't always exact either- for instance my tach was 200 rpm higher on the dash than the computer was reading, and the temp gauge was 20* higher too from what the computer showed....