I am going to put on a set of AI heads soon.
What is needed to go with a solid roller? I would like 380+ to the wheels on a stock bottom end. Already have all the little stuff, IN,EX,etc.
The car will soon be weekend only duty, so extreme is no problem. THNX Dave

 

fyi, to reach 380+ to the rear wheels, a solid roller camshaft is not needed, its more then doable with a hydraulic roller cam
ask Phil he will tell ya!
do a search even under "400rwhp" or under user name SkarodoM

curious why you want to do a solid roller?
hydraulic roller, you can get in the car and drive it with less maintenance, even have a 400rwhp daily driver if that would be your cup of tea

 

I have already talked to Phil, alot. I am sending my heads to him on Monday. With the cam he suggested, he said 380 should be easy. This is with an A4. I am shooting for 380, but 400 would be nice. I was talking to a guy last night and he said I should look into solid roller. I will just ask Phil on Monday when I e-mail him the tracking number.

 

A solid roller is really only going to help you over 6500 RPMS or so. It will help a little bit under that, but not worth it. Get yourself a nice big HydRoller cam and some heavy duty springs, with a higher seat pressure, and that will keep the valves down. If you really want every ounce of HP out of it get an AFR hydra rev kit and that will allow you to rev over 6300ish without any valve float.

I believe valve float really only starts to happen past 6300 or so. That is the only advantage to a solid roller setup, except that they can make them more extreme of ramps on the lobes, but XE grind cams are pretty close.

So, if you have the budget and dont mind the maintenance, go solid, but you really arent gonna want to rev much over 6grand anyway on a stock bottom end.

If not, get a nice XE grind Hydroller. Depending on whether you really want the HP or the torque, decide on the size, bigger = more HP smaller =more torque. Keep in mind you will have to rev way up there on any cam bigger than the 230/236, so a custom grind will be the best route for you.

 

Really a solid will help throughout the curve. That and, how many serious perf. engines do you see with hydraulic setups? Not many unless they're required to run it. The maintenance really isnt that bad IMO for the performance gain you get.

Still, you can make good power with a HR & don't need a solid setup - it's just nice. Forget the rev-kit BS though, buy some decent lifters & with good oil pressure you'll be fine with enough spring to control the valve.

 

Im not gonna argue with you here Phil, Im just kinda curious.

Really how does a solid setup help HP through the whole curve. I dont see how it can be because of the hydraulic part, it is basically just because a solid cam can have a much more extreme profile correct, and not worry about any valve float. Or is it because of the hydraulic?

 

the extreme ramps on a solid roller means more power under the curve.
jesse

 

Get a set of lifters with the oil slots and streetability isnt a real problem. This is the setup I am changing to over the winter...adding the solid setup, and spinning even harder. Figure with 392 to the wheels now with a hydralic, I should be able to add around 15% or more HP to the wheels. So Phil is totally right, a soild will help thoughout the curve, but top end is where its at

Q

 

My car overlayed with a hyd. roller car making about the same peak rwhp...I had about 30 hp at 4000 rpms on the hyd roller car. Actually I had more hp up untill the last 200 rpm.