well, we're talking a 355 with p/p LT4 heads. the cams i listed are two solid roller cams currently for sale. i'm looking at running some forged speed pro's and a stock M6 to start with using a stage 4 star spec (i want the clutch to be the weakest link, not the trans) rearend is a 8.5" 10 bolt with 4:10 gears. car is at stock weight.

are those cams going to be too big for some street use? i only plan to drive it on nice days and to the track. i want something with alot of raw power to start with and run some spray at the track. i wanna run at least 11's on motor dipping 10's on nitrous.

otherwise, i may just sit on the solid roller for a while and run my 224/236 with hydralics.

 

Dont have an LT1, but i do have a Solid Roller setup.

That initial ramp on the S/R cam is called the Clearance Ramp.

 

There's a lot to say on this matter. Bottom line of the thing is... yes with tuning, either of those cams can be made to work ok in a street driver. There are a number of guys on this board doing just that, myself included.
Now that we're past that.... you don't need either of those cams to run the times you're after. With the suspension setup and the right combination of parts, you should be able to run in the 11's with a cam in the 224-230 range. The head work needs to be there though. Which doesn't mean you need heads that flow 300cfm at .600 either. To make the shorter duration cams work, you need excellent low-mid lift flow.

To give you an idea....
A very good friend of mine runs a cam speced very similar to the Hotcam in a 63 Nova bracket car (357 ci) and turns mid tens with it. Needless to say this car is well setup and could be street driven... but not legally at this point. The heads are hand ported AFR 190's that max out at around 255 cfm. Most people on this message board would balk at these numbers but the low-mid lift #s are where it's at with these heads.

Back to your situation... I think you'd be alot happier with a milder cam and a really well tuned suspension setup. Get the 60' times down and your et's should be there. My choice would likely be a cam in the 224-230 range (hydraulic) and a 110 lsa. Going larger and widening the lsa is not the right direction. I would build the engine around NA driving unless strictly a track car.

By the way, Bret and Rich both spec cams for customers and their advice is free. I'd take either of them up on this and see what they have to offer.

Good luck.

-Mindgame

 

Bret is the go to guy for cams! But don't expect a specific recommendation for free, he makes his living doing this stuff.

Rich Krause

 

Oh yes, my apologies and thanks for the correction Rich....

I didn't mean to imply that the specifics would be free.... just the general steering-you-in-the-right-direction advice.

Should also mention Mr. Joe Overton. The guys he's worked with are laying down some very mean times. Real world results speak for themselves.... just do a search in LT1 Tech if you're curious.

Good luck.

-Mindgame

 

Thanks for the plug..... Joe is also very good too.

I'm not a big fan of used cams, just because you are probably not going to get the right one for the setup you are running.

Cams are the cheap part of a valve train, $260-$300 it's the rest of the parts that make it expensive. I'm looking at a SR setup for my LS1 and to do it my way (which yes I always think is the right way) at my cost is just shy of $2K and that's without porting the heads!

Bret