So what's the secret to working with valve spring keepers?
I started replacing my valve springs yesterday I got #1, #8 and #6 done in about 3 hours. #8 was just a pain in the ***, my heater core coolant lines to in the way. But the others were pretty accessible. I just wanted to know if there was a trick to getting the keep out & in. I tap them with a hammer and screwdriver to get them out, but puttting them in is a chore, ya can't let one drop in too far ahead of the other, they have to go in together.
Also, the keepers on the new springs don't look quite as "seated" as the old stock springs. I'm assuming they "sit down" a little more as they break in??
Also, the keepers on the new springs don't look quite as "seated" as the old stock springs. I'm assuming they "sit down" a little more as they break in??
Some keepers can get a little stuck in there so use a rubber mallet and a couple of sharp cracks on the tops usually gets them loose. Also get a small parts magnet which aids in pulling them out and putting them back in. A slight magnetic charge should help them stick a bit better.
Once they are on use the mallet again to seat them. They must seat fully. If yours look a little weird, I'd pull them off again and re-install. I did all mine in about 2 hours.
Once they are on use the mallet again to seat them. They must seat fully. If yours look a little weird, I'd pull them off again and re-install. I did all mine in about 2 hours.
So I just tap them with a rubber mallet after the spring is fully installed? I'm assuming this is get them fullt seated? The new ones don't look very far off from the old ones at all, maybe all I'm missing is to tap them in.
Originally posted by 95CamaroZ-28
You might try putting a litttle bit of grease on the keepers before you put them in to hold them in place. This should help prevent one from sliding down farther than the other.
You might try putting a litttle bit of grease on the keepers before you put them in to hold them in place. This should help prevent one from sliding down farther than the other.
Originally posted by DruggNet
I can't believe that you are using a hammer? WTF
Try using a spring compressor and a magnet next time.
grease?
I can't believe that you are using a hammer? WTF
Try using a spring compressor and a magnet next time.
grease?
Originally posted by GREGG 97Z
I'm pretty sure he is using a spring compressor genius. Do you really think he's just compressing the new springs by hand??? And a proven method of loosening up the keepers before compressing the springs is to tap the top of the valve with a rubber mallet.
I'm pretty sure he is using a spring compressor genius. Do you really think he's just compressing the new springs by hand??? And a proven method of loosening up the keepers before compressing the springs is to tap the top of the valve with a rubber mallet.
I understand the effectiveness of using a rubber mallet
. It should not take that long for someone to do. It is all a fairly simple process.
Just to clarify....
I am using a compressor to compress the springs, once the springs are fully compressed, I tap the keepers with a screwdriver and mallet to pop 'em loose. The problem I was having was installing the new ones, getting them lined up so they drop in at the same time. I'll try some grease and the magnetic wand.
I am using a compressor to compress the springs, once the springs are fully compressed, I tap the keepers with a screwdriver and mallet to pop 'em loose. The problem I was having was installing the new ones, getting them lined up so they drop in at the same time. I'll try some grease and the magnetic wand.
I just installed 1.6rr's this weekend and new springs. I found that if you compress the spring close to were the keepers go this will stop them from dopping out. Then all I used was a needle nose pliers to drop them in one side at a time worked best for me.
if you are using one of those screw down type compressors then i highly highly suggest going back to the parts store and getting the pry bar type! you will still want to keep the screw down for under the cowl but the pry bar is far easilier to compress the spring with and i think its only $9 or $10.
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