Hey all,

I was planning to start my new forged 383 this weekend, but after I installed (painfully) the y-pipe to the headers, I noticed it was an extremely tight fit--the flanged were actually against the k-member. I thought no big deal, but then I look at the O2 hole that is practically facing the pan. There is NO WAY I can get that damn O2 into the y-pipe with that damn Canton pan.

Does any1 know where I can get a custom y-pipe made (I live in Mass) or who sells one that will bolt up to my 1 3/4" SLP shorties and Flowmaster cat-back?

Are there any other brands that will fit with the Canton. I still have the stock k-member.

Any help appreciated -- I'm so f#$king pissed right now!!!

 

Problem solved!!! I broke the O2 sensor that wasn't fitting in half and used the screw side to plug up the hole in the exhaust. I will run the car in open loop (LT1_Edit). Does anyone know the pros/cons of always running open loop (or is it closed loop)?

So, I will fire it up today... I will let you know what happens.

If you're curious, here are my *new* mods:

• forged Eagle 3.75" stroke crank
• forged Eagle ESP 6" rods w/ L19 bolts
• forged JE/SRP pistons, -16cc dish, SRP ring set
• Clevite 77-H main, rod, and cam bearings
• block overbore and hone 4.030"
• Comp Cams 306 camshaft
• Lloyd Elliott ported heads:
136/104 @ .200
192/147 @ .300
241/171 @ .400
266/184 @ .500
270/192 @ .600
• Ferrea 6000 2.00/1.56 valves
• Comp Cams "R" hydraulic lifters
• Comp Cams chromoly pushrods
• Comp Cams stainless steel 1.6 Pro magnum roller rockers
• Canton 242-T race oil pan
• Mellings oil pump
• LT4 extreme duty timing chain set
• powder coated black intake
• Holley 58mm throttle body
• replace all rubber bushings with polyurethane
• 200 amp alternator
• LT4 starter
• Walbro/Racetronix fuel pump w/ wiring harness
• Goodyear hi-miller hose kit
• ARP bolts everywhere!
• 6000k H4 Xenon HID headlights (kick @ss)