Dont have the timeslips me.......but I had a very dissapointing night. Car in Sig ran a best of 14.27 with a 2.6xx 60ft with a trap of 101.8x

Granted I went with 245/16 regular tires, spinned like crazy but where the hell is my mph?

Car is running rich, as it shoots out black smoke at WOT. In the highway, the car runs strong as hell, but it did not translate into to the track.......In the highway, it has tremendous passing power, even with the 3.23, my tranny shifts hard. I dont know.

I am dissapointed, what could be wrong, on a side note I am getting CODE 43, Knock Sensor Something, I need to check that out. CAr is tuned by PCM for Less, by ROOSTER (the chip guy)

My bolt on Camaro Z28, had much better trap times than this, do automatics suck that much?

 

Man get some tires on that beast to get the 60 foot down, that's killing you. For every .1 that you knock off your 60 foot usually equals .15 at the end. Then if you have autolap log a wot run from start to finish and send back to pcmforless and get another computer tuned for you running rich. That'll help out a lot. I've got the same tuning and i'm running a little rich.....that should help oh and get some 3.73's under there.

 

Oh and get rid of that 2.25 pipe and get some 3 inch on there and open it up some.

 

you really need to get the knock sensor code worked out. it could be as simple as your knock sensor is not plugged in. my car ran like complete crap when my knock sensor wasn't plugged in. also clear the code. 2.6 60' time??? i agree that you definitely are lacking some MPH but i'd worry about that knock sensor code before I worried about track times.

 

no automatics do not suck... matter of fact they are better fro dragging... because of the f-body automatic setup and because they are consistant... the m6 is only better for auto Xing and maybe the "fun to drive" factor...

 

Yeah, I got to get that fixed, the Chilton manual says its a open circuit / grounded or something like that. I'll take a look at it today. Maybe it is retarding timing like crazy, hope it is that.

Also, there is no special way to hook up fuel injectors on a 93 right? Batch Fire, does not matter where they go, Right?

I have E.T. Street at home, but I need rims for it, what size do I need? E.T Streets measure 16 inches 11.5 width.

Thanks for your replies.

 

HAHA yeah that knock sensor code is why you are running so slow! its probably not working which will make the PCM pull out 12* of timing until its fixed. its like constant knock retard to the max.

oh and btw it would be a good idea to shorten that sig a little. you dont really need every little part down to the retainers and !TB.

 

Hey guys,

I checked the knock sensor today, but I could not find anything wrong with it. Anyone ever experience this problem? It is trowing Code 43, Knock Sensor Circuit. What do I check? Wires look good, the sensor is a new one from Autozone. I an dissapointed!!!

Also here are my times:
Best Run that night:
60' 2.643
I2' 6.390
1/8' 9.437
1/8 mph' 81.103
1/4' 14.270
1/4 mph' 101.887

In comparison: Brother's car he sucked that day too but his best trap time run was the following.

60' 3.406
I2' 7.807
1/8' 10.89
1/8 mph' 81.020
1/4' 15.599
1/4 mph' 107.083 slower than he should.

After comparing runs, seems like car is dog after the 1/8 mile, but then again I was expecting to trap somewhere around 85-86mph in the 1/8. Where is my power?

 

"Fun to drive" factor? I thought that was the whooole deal about owning a f-body??

 

i would try replacing that knock sensor with one from a car that you know works and see what happens. i'm wondering if the sensor from auto zone is crap. shoebox where are you?

 

My 93 also has a code 43 SES, open knock sensor circuit. I never fixed it though, but it runs perfect Still traps the same it always did, a lil over 105.

 

What did they prep the track with crisco? A 2.6 is a horrible 60'. Every .1 you lower you 60' roughly equals .1 sec in the 1/4. You could knock almost a whole second of your time if you could pull a 2.0 60'.

 

I know it costs money, but if it bothers you that much, (and it would bother me, too, with all those mods) then take it and get it professionally dynotuned. In the end, the cost will seem minimal when you're running 12s.

 

First make sure you have false or real knock, put some VP race gas octane boost in and see if it runs better, if not, go to Radio shack and buy a 3900 ohm resistor and cut the wire to the knock sensor and put the resistor inline and ground it to the engine. Go run it and see how it does. WHen you put the true duals in did you hook the O2 sensors up correctly? single tan or brown wire? A 93 car needs the O2's to run correctly at wide open throttle. I would put at least some 2.5 inch pipe on the car for ex. Oh yeh and make sure you dont have a loud rocker arm, loose bracket, anything rattling the knock sensor will pick up.

David

 

There is a wiring bundle on the passenger side of your car that holds the wiring for the starter, O2 and knock sensor wiring. If you didn't route that out of harms way, it can melt with Hooker long tubes. Check that wiring harness, specifically your KS and O2 wiring.

Is the car reaching closed loop when it's warmed up? If not, you have an O2 issue, in addition to your KS.

Good luck and take your time troubleshooting the problem.