This is a t-bolt.

There ya go.

 

Quote:

Leadfoot - Before you applied the cement what color was it? I found some here in Dallas but it is black and I dont think that will look good on my coated headers

The stuff that I bought was a light grey color, and came in an 8oz tub, the brand was called Master Plumber manufactured for TruServ, Chicago, IL 60631-3505.

I wish there was some way I could send the rest to you I hardly used any.

 

To answer the remove question - It will take some effort to get the header out! I was unable to remove the header by myself even with the motor FULLY jacked up. I seems like you will have to remove both parts of the motormount (motor and frame side). However, I can't guarantee it would come out.

btw - I couldn't find that furnace cement stuff down here in Houston!

Ryan

 

Quote:

btw - I couldn't find that furnace cement stuff down here in Houston!

That figures, you guys probably don't need much heat donw south. That's too bad, because this stuff works even better as it is subjected to more heat, because it cures with heat.

 

It will not be as easy as just unbolting the stearing linkage. I could not get my header in with the motor monts undone and a hoist pulling up the eingine.. i had to give in and take the number 1 primar off.

 

Did you actually remove the motor mounts or just the thru-bolts?

 

Take it from someone who works with that stuff all day it holds about as good as Sh** it doesnt hold and it will crack and flake off in a week trust me we use it to seal smoke pipe's going into chimmeys which get around 400 to 500 degrees no were near what a header gets so IMO it wont work for long...And those that are asking how will you get your headers off it will just break off how do you think we get smoke pipe's out every year to check the chimmey bases IT WILL NOT WORK TRUST ME.....

 

just the through bolts where removed

 

I used High temp RTV and an exhaust clamp from a Volkswagon. From the factory, they've got big wide clamps ( about and inch) You can wind those suckers down nice and tight. Anyways, I've never had a leak using this on my Random Techs.

YMMV

 

I used copper RTV and one of those hose clamps with a screw to hold the primary tight.

-B

 

Me either...I think you'd have to completely remove both of the actual mounts, which isn't really THAT much work, but still a pain just to stop an annoying leak .

Ryan

 

Where do I get an exhaust clamp for a vw? Are we talking old punchbuggy or some new one?

 

Quote:

Take it from someone who works with that stuff all day it holds about as good as Sh** it doesnt hold and it will crack and flake off in a week trust me we use it to seal smoke pipe's going into chimmeys which get around 400 to 500 degrees no were near what a header gets so IMO it wont work for long...And those that are asking how will you get your headers off it will just break off how do you think we get smoke pipe's out every year to check the chimmey bases IT WILL NOT WORK TRUST ME.....

That's funny I've had it on there for about 3 weeks now and there is absolutely no more leak or problems. It's not cracking or flaking either. The stuff I used was good up to 3000deg. so I doubt the header will get that hot. Also If I take off the header I will just add more when I slip the primary back in and seal it up again. I say try it and see for yourself.

 

I've seen them on fairly late model Jetta and Golf's (80's and 90's.) I got mine at the local VW dealer.

 

Still holding Leadfoot?

Cody