See mods in sig. I've been kicking around the idea of 52mm TB and/or an underdrive pulley after seeing results in Chevy High Performance on a stock 97 Z28 but after seeing the mixed opinions on here about either of those, I again don't believe either mod is worth the money. I'm only putting down about 305rwhp/310rwtq with my current setup. I've hit high 12.6's but I would like to get the MPH up from 107mph.
I'd like to know if anyone has ran my cam on ported heads and seen impressive results because I like the drivability of it (which is why I went with the mild cam rather than the larger 306.
What do you guys think--are there any significant bolt-ons I have skipped? I can dig into the wallet for a bolt-on, but with this wedding in a couple weeks it may be a while before I have heads money.

...maybe I should just spray...

 

Don't look at magazines if you want any good info any that gets printed is purely accidental.

Heads would be a great mod BUT to really take advantage of them you need things like the TB. Now UD pulleys you can skip with our timing set driven WP they offer far less gains than they do on other motors. Though a ATI damper with a built in 10% UD is on my wishlist, lighter better dampening with the UD as a side benifit.

 

I would think heads would give you a huge gain, your already cammed. It's like PB&J without the jelly!

I am doing exactly what you have done, only without the cam. My car only has CAI and exhaust for bolt ons and I have 3.73's and a tune. Also have a bottle. I'm slappin on an H/C package before I even worry about LT's and TB.

 

Can't help you with the heads but mind if I ask what the numbers were CHP threw out for the mods on the 97 Z28 you mentioned? A couple other 52mm TB dyno results thrown around in mags have had me looking at one as well.

 

I wouldnt do heads without first doing a TB, cam, and long tube headers.

 

He already has a cam. TB can be done later, although it will restrict power slightly.

I say go for it. Inside the engine is where the power is at, not bolt ons.

 

Home port the TB if youre that worried about flow and dont want to spend the extra money. And i would definitely have longtubes, thats a huge mod for lt1's in my opinion.

 

I don't have the magazine with me now but I believe it was like 7rwhp and 12rwtq. It is the tq number that got me interested.

 

I've already done headers by Arizona Speed and Marine (midlength 1 3/4" primaries). I have some ground clearance issues to worry about because of the sucky roads in Ohio so I ruled out LT's.

So right now, it seems most of you think I should just save up and do the heads. I've taken note of Loyd Elliot and know he has done VERY reputable work. But I have a family friend who has built some very good motors in his life and IF I understood him correctly, he said the primary gain you see in ported heads is because of larger valves and a good valve job. (i forget the terminolgy he used, maybe "5 angle valve job"???) He recommended me to a local place that does the heads for his dirt track modified and said if he takes them to the shop, he could get the work done for around $250.
If I just made this guy sound like an idiot, don't bash him because sometimes I can't follow his explanations very well since he knows so much more than I do.
So if any heads guys are in here...does this make sense and sound like a good deal?
I'd really like to be up around the 350rwhp/tq mark on the dyno and run a low 12 in full street trim while praying my tranny or rear end does not break
Once I get my BS in Aerospace Engineering wrapped up in 2 years I am going to experiment with forced induction. But for now, I'd like to learn the NA way and not break the bank.

 

Well if you want to do something cheap thats a good bolt on do a E-WP and get the wiring kit for safety reasons if its your daily driver. 10rwhp/10rwtq is about what this mod will gain you, probably a bit more with a cam. I felt a huge difference with mine and it was one of my best mods.

52mm probably wouldnt hurt and I know a guy on here do them for $1XX or so. He'll give you back $40-$45 for your stocker. PM me for the guys name.

Heads are a great idea, although you probably wont know exactly what you are getting with your family friend LE will actually send you flow numbers and everything. Ultimately you could probably find a good set of ported heads in Ohio somewhere. Watch the forsale section for some killer deals. Thats where I found mine.

Pulley's are a last resort in my opinion. I love my 23% ASP Pulley but I dont think I made and huge power gains with it. I'd save the money for heads or E-WP before a pulley.

-Dustin-

 

Another vote for heads first, and a TB later.

 

I agree about the board having killer deals on heads--I've seen many good heads go for relatively cheap. I think I am going to talk to the family friend and ask if the shop he uses will do a flow test.
Also, does anyone know anything about what makes horsepower gains in the heads? Is it primarily the valve job or did I misunderstand what he was trying to tell me?

 

From what I have spoke with Lloyd Elliot about head performance its not just about the flow numbers its about how you port the heads, the angles, sizes, etc. I personally would try to find a set of LE1 or LE2 heads for sale. I think some killer LE3's went for $1100 shipped not to long ago. Keep a close eye on this.

PS Kent is so close to Salem, I drive past it when I got to Akron several times a week. Do any cruising around there?

-Dustin-

 

With a good set of heads you will see the biggest gain. Not that you should turn your back on finishing the bolt ons, they are important too, but for now you will gain far more hp/tq with the heads. As someone posted before, its like PB & J without the J.

 

Kent is my last name, but I do like to joke around with people that my grand daddy started Kent University. I'm actually in Columbus. Have you ever made any trips down to National Trail Raceway, or Norwalk?