Should I replace the optispark?
06-22-2017, 12:14 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2017
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Should I replace the optispark?
I have a 95 Z28 with 35k miles in it. It only had one owner before me (for sure as I've known the guy for a long time.) He drove it sparingly and took really good care of it. It is in excellent condition. Unfortunately age plays a role even in cases of low mileage and I have some gasket leaks and the water pump is leaking. The car is driving just fine. It feels fantastic with no misses. I'm looking at quite a bill from the mechanic to do this work. While he is in there he is doing a tune-up and he will at least be replacing the cap and rotor. I'm wondering if he should just replace the optispark altogether. He said he will look for signs of corrosion and make a recommendation but I'm worried that, with the water pump having leaked on it, I will find I need him to go back in and replace the part 6 months down the road. What do you guys think?
By the way here are the things being done and the bill I am looking at:
Coolant Sensor + Water Pump
Intake Gasket
Tune-up including plugs/wires
He says he heard the idler pully squeak and that there's some tensioner pulley wobble
Oil pan gasket
Total: $3,000
Does that seem reasonable? I am considering telling him to forget about the oil pan gasket for now and to put some of that cost into replacing the optispark instead. Thanks for any info.
By the way here are the things being done and the bill I am looking at:
Coolant Sensor + Water Pump
Intake Gasket
Tune-up including plugs/wires
He says he heard the idler pully squeak and that there's some tensioner pulley wobble
Oil pan gasket
Total: $3,000
Does that seem reasonable? I am considering telling him to forget about the oil pan gasket for now and to put some of that cost into replacing the optispark instead. Thanks for any info.
06-22-2017, 04:04 PM
#2
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,083
Re: Should I replace the optispark?
$3k...and the parts are around $300. At $100 shop labor rate that's 27 hrs...way longer than it would take a qualified mechanic to do that work
you are getting raped
Granted his mark up on the parts is going to be more than $300 but still very heavy labor
Rare a pan gasket leaks. More common is rear intake manifold leaking and oil migrates down to lowest point and can "look" like a pan gasket.
Your opti works and is likely the original AC Delco. Worth its weight in gold now. While cap & rotor is a wear item just like any other distributor doubtful it needs replacing at 35k mi
What you would need to do is take the cap & rotor off when the water pump swap is done and then take the metal disc out and clean, with Q tip, any coolant or oil that may have gotten in it. Get a MSD Cap & rotor if you do wind up replacing them since you would take off the old one to inspect inside the opti
use blue loc-tite on the rotor screws
a shop mechanic will never fix a part, just replace it and sadly you can only get reman AC Delco optis now or cheap china crap ones so hang on to yours and just clean it if there is any crud in it which is very likely if you have a WP leak
you are getting raped
Granted his mark up on the parts is going to be more than $300 but still very heavy labor
Rare a pan gasket leaks. More common is rear intake manifold leaking and oil migrates down to lowest point and can "look" like a pan gasket.
Your opti works and is likely the original AC Delco. Worth its weight in gold now. While cap & rotor is a wear item just like any other distributor doubtful it needs replacing at 35k mi
What you would need to do is take the cap & rotor off when the water pump swap is done and then take the metal disc out and clean, with Q tip, any coolant or oil that may have gotten in it. Get a MSD Cap & rotor if you do wind up replacing them since you would take off the old one to inspect inside the opti
use blue loc-tite on the rotor screws
a shop mechanic will never fix a part, just replace it and sadly you can only get reman AC Delco optis now or cheap china crap ones so hang on to yours and just clean it if there is any crud in it which is very likely if you have a WP leak
06-22-2017, 07:18 PM
#3
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 3
Re: Should I replace the optispark?
I posted this earlier but it got held for review. I don't know how active the mods are here so I changed some words to hopefully make it through. Hopefully it won't end up posted twice.
I told him to knock off the oil pan gasket swap and the cost of the cap and rotor kit. We are down to $2,200. I still feel like it's steep but this guy has cut me a lot of slack over the years and I only want to make a big deal out of it if he is really taking me for a ride.
I told him to stop when they have the optispark out and call me so I can go take a look at it. I am going to make a decision once I see it. I may bring it home, clean it up, and take it back to him the next day. I suppose I can take a couple of pictures and get some opinions here. Whatever I end up doing if I replace any parts, whether cap and rotor or the optispark, I am going to get the parts myself and give them to the mechanic to install so his bill will not be affected.
I'm not going to lie I am definitely wary of all of this. The car runs great. I'm going to be ticked if I pay 2k and it doesn't run as well as it did. I know my limits though and some of this work is beyond me.
Your opti works and is likely the original AC Delco. Worth its weight in gold now. While cap & rotor is a wear item just like any other distributor doubtful it needs replacing at 35k mi
What you would need to do is take the cap & rotor off when the water pump swap is done and then take the metal disc out and clean, with Q tip, any coolant or oil that may have gotten in it. Get a MSD Cap & rotor if you do wind up replacing them since you would take off the old one to inspect inside the opti
use blue loc-tite on the rotor screws
a shop mechanic will never fix a part, just replace it and sadly you can only get reman AC Delco optis now or cheap china crap ones so hang on to yours and just clean it if there is any crud in it which is very likely if you have a WP leak
What you would need to do is take the cap & rotor off when the water pump swap is done and then take the metal disc out and clean, with Q tip, any coolant or oil that may have gotten in it. Get a MSD Cap & rotor if you do wind up replacing them since you would take off the old one to inspect inside the opti
use blue loc-tite on the rotor screws
a shop mechanic will never fix a part, just replace it and sadly you can only get reman AC Delco optis now or cheap china crap ones so hang on to yours and just clean it if there is any crud in it which is very likely if you have a WP leak
I'm not going to lie I am definitely wary of all of this. The car runs great. I'm going to be ticked if I pay 2k and it doesn't run as well as it did. I know my limits though and some of this work is beyond me.
06-22-2017, 09:51 PM
#4
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Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,648
Re: Should I replace the optispark?
The problem with posts going into the "approval queue" just popped up in the last couple days, apparently for new members. I'm trying to sort it out, because I can't find anyhing in the posts that would traditionally set a flag - spam links, commercial content, improper topics, etc.
There is only one other Moderator active. I check the site multiple times daily when I can, and probably personally answer at least half of the questions. But there is no notification that a post is in the queue, so we have to look for it as we work our way through the topics.
Sorry for the difficulty.
Unless the A/C has been deleted from the car, or it's the 1LE option that didn't have A/C, there is only one combined tensioner/idler pulley in the system.
Courtesy of Shoebox
http://shbox.com/1/tensioner.jpg
Price just seems way too high. You could do the intake manifold gasket, tensioner pulley, water pump, plugs/wires yourself.
A 94 Opti (unvented) is likely full of corrosion. I bought my 94 brand new, and by 50K miles (no more than 4 years) the Opti was full of rust. The rust is caused by ozone generated by the high voltage discharge. It destroys the cheap bearing, which is in the base of the unit. Mine was very difficult to even turn after I took it off. No way for the mechanic to know that without pulling the complete Opti. If the inside is very rusty, replace it.
Next question becomes what Opti to buy. AC Delco was the go-to, but a few years ago they became rebuilt. Only recently have I seen one person complain about getting two bad Delcos. I think I would still opt for the Delco. Under no circumstances use a complete MSD Opti. The MSD units from the last couple years appear to have a faulty optical sensor that causes major problems due to erratic high resolution pulse signals. MSD claims they found the problem, but I have found no proof of that, even though I provided MSD with PCM data logs showing the erratic signals, and convinced one owner to send his faulty unit back to MSD so they could test it. But so far, no real feedback.
There
There is only one other Moderator active. I check the site multiple times daily when I can, and probably personally answer at least half of the questions. But there is no notification that a post is in the queue, so we have to look for it as we work our way through the topics.
Sorry for the difficulty.
Unless the A/C has been deleted from the car, or it's the 1LE option that didn't have A/C, there is only one combined tensioner/idler pulley in the system.
Courtesy of Shoebox
http://shbox.com/1/tensioner.jpg
Price just seems way too high. You could do the intake manifold gasket, tensioner pulley, water pump, plugs/wires yourself.
A 94 Opti (unvented) is likely full of corrosion. I bought my 94 brand new, and by 50K miles (no more than 4 years) the Opti was full of rust. The rust is caused by ozone generated by the high voltage discharge. It destroys the cheap bearing, which is in the base of the unit. Mine was very difficult to even turn after I took it off. No way for the mechanic to know that without pulling the complete Opti. If the inside is very rusty, replace it.
Next question becomes what Opti to buy. AC Delco was the go-to, but a few years ago they became rebuilt. Only recently have I seen one person complain about getting two bad Delcos. I think I would still opt for the Delco. Under no circumstances use a complete MSD Opti. The MSD units from the last couple years appear to have a faulty optical sensor that causes major problems due to erratic high resolution pulse signals. MSD claims they found the problem, but I have found no proof of that, even though I provided MSD with PCM data logs showing the erratic signals, and convinced one owner to send his faulty unit back to MSD so they could test it. But so far, no real feedback.
There
Last edited by Injuneer; 06-22-2017 at 09:55 PM.
06-23-2017, 11:26 AM
#5
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 3
Re: Should I replace the optispark?
Under no circumstances use a complete MSD Opti. The MSD units from the last couple years appear to have a faulty optical sensor that causes major problems due to erratic high resolution pulse signals. MSD claims they found the problem, but I have found no proof of that, even though I provided MSD with PCM data logs showing the erratic signals, and convinced one owner to send his faulty unit back to MSD so they could test it. But so far, no real feedback.
I am going to look at the unit before I make a decision. If it has rust inside I will take your advice and go for an AC Delco reman. Any advice on where to get one? The dealer wants $542.21 (that's already adjusted for core). Summit Racing sells one that requires a new pigtail. Strangely they show the pigtail as being compatible with the 94 and 96 models but not the 95. I don't know what is up with that but I assume it is an error on their part. Anyway if you include the plug it's $412.92. I think I'd rather just get the part from the dealer in that instance. Then there is Rock Auto. They want $286.79 (adjusted for core). I just want the best shot at getting a good part so the car runs as intended and hopefully we won't have to go back in again.
Thanks!
06-23-2017, 12:06 PM
#6
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,083
Re: Should I replace the optispark?
OP
if the water pump is leaking it is likely the opti did get some coolant exposure inside it. If so very likely it can be carefully cleaned out assuming the opti shaft spins freely and the rotor does not wobble. At 35k mi it should be fine otherwise
Having a shop do work vs yourself is certainly going to cost you. If you feel paying a premium to a shop you have confidence in, that is your call. Typically they would not warranty any part you supply or repair yourself
Have you confirmed the intake and oil pan gasket do in fact leak?
Intake leak is fairly common to leak from back. Run your hand along the back of it where it meats the block. If oil than it is leaking
Another source of oil leak that can contaminate opti is front timing cover seals, typically the WP drive seal. These can be tricky to replace in that there is a specific tool, or a few home made versions, used to install this seal. If your mechanic is not familiar with the LT1 motor or has not replaced one of these seals before he can screw it up
Your plugs if original have a 100k mi service life.
if the water pump is leaking it is likely the opti did get some coolant exposure inside it. If so very likely it can be carefully cleaned out assuming the opti shaft spins freely and the rotor does not wobble. At 35k mi it should be fine otherwise
Having a shop do work vs yourself is certainly going to cost you. If you feel paying a premium to a shop you have confidence in, that is your call. Typically they would not warranty any part you supply or repair yourself
Have you confirmed the intake and oil pan gasket do in fact leak?
Intake leak is fairly common to leak from back. Run your hand along the back of it where it meats the block. If oil than it is leaking
Another source of oil leak that can contaminate opti is front timing cover seals, typically the WP drive seal. These can be tricky to replace in that there is a specific tool, or a few home made versions, used to install this seal. If your mechanic is not familiar with the LT1 motor or has not replaced one of these seals before he can screw it up
Your plugs if original have a 100k mi service life.
