should i get zo6 maf?
Originally posted by madwolf
Umm... please READ my post again if you feel it's necessary.
I didn't say the Z06 maf is bad. I said that it's not meant for our cars. And it's wonderful that you have the calibration values and everything, but do you really think I don't have those and didn't think about trying them already?
Also, I probably don't need to tell you that those were made for a different engine, program and ecm?
Take your car to the dyno and watch your graph.
Umm... please READ my post again if you feel it's necessary.
I didn't say the Z06 maf is bad. I said that it's not meant for our cars. And it's wonderful that you have the calibration values and everything, but do you really think I don't have those and didn't think about trying them already?
Also, I probably don't need to tell you that those were made for a different engine, program and ecm?
Take your car to the dyno and watch your graph.
the MAF is just a SENSOR.. it's not smart... it just outputs a frequency pulse for a certian flow through it... as long as you "Calibrate" your PCM to read the frequency correctly it's just like like the stock MAF... as long as you have the correct values, and interpolate them correctly from the Z06 MAF.
The Z06 PCM uses a different chart to read the MAF, but as long as one knows the frequency Vs output curve for the MAF, and inputs it in correctly in their F-Body PCM everything PCM wise is fine... Any programmer or electrical engineer could tell you that...
The LS1-speed version is a HACKED version that only LS1 speed knows the Freq-flow curve... that's the problem... you can't adjust your PCM to the correct chart.. thus the problems...
...
I've had the Z06 MAF on my car since the begining of '02... since then I've had ZERO problems and my car never ran better.
But... I will add.. this is NOT a "add-hp" mod... this will AT most give you 10hp.. if that...
I got mine because my stocker failed.. and I didn;t feel like spending $300 when I can have a BETTER unit for ~$105 initial investment, and if it ever fails again I've only got to spend $85 for a new one, plug-n-play.
There are fit-ment problems with MOST applications due to the 4" inlet Vs the LT1 3.5" inlet. Mine was solved with a Fernco coupler, which made it a perfect install with the Stock WS6 airbox.
Oh.. and as a side note.. I'm 3/4 of the way through a 1 Liter of Reisling... so my "mornal" engineer self is a little off on the typing...
I've had the Z06 MAF on my car since the begining of '02... since then I've had ZERO problems and my car never ran better.
But... I will add.. this is NOT a "add-hp" mod... this will AT most give you 10hp.. if that...
I got mine because my stocker failed.. and I didn;t feel like spending $300 when I can have a BETTER unit for ~$105 initial investment, and if it ever fails again I've only got to spend $85 for a new one, plug-n-play.
There are fit-ment problems with MOST applications due to the 4" inlet Vs the LT1 3.5" inlet. Mine was solved with a Fernco coupler, which made it a perfect install with the Stock WS6 airbox.
Oh.. and as a side note.. I'm 3/4 of the way through a 1 Liter of Reisling... so my "mornal" engineer self is a little off on the typing...
Great, if everything is just in the MAF, how do you explain the fact that the MAF itself is bigger (which means more airflow) but the grams per second values for a given frequency are smaller than the stock LT1 or even Caprice MAF? Taking the exact same frequencies...
How do I explain it?..
Different types of meters... different internal flow sencing device materials or design most likely. The output is primiarily driven by the materials of the sencing wires, and the layout of them in the Meter.
Ex:any Thermistor (Look it up if you don't know what it is), the resistance changes for temperature change, but NOT every thermistor changes the resistance of at the same rate as others. Same thing applies for the MAF, it's just a difference performance curve. It's reading the same thing, and outputing it in the same format (Frequency waveform) so the A/D (Analog to digital) converter (in the PCM) reads it the same way; you just have to adjust the scale (reference chart) in the Microcontroller (PCM).
Different types of meters... different internal flow sencing device materials or design most likely. The output is primiarily driven by the materials of the sencing wires, and the layout of them in the Meter.
Ex:any Thermistor (Look it up if you don't know what it is), the resistance changes for temperature change, but NOT every thermistor changes the resistance of at the same rate as others. Same thing applies for the MAF, it's just a difference performance curve. It's reading the same thing, and outputing it in the same format (Frequency waveform) so the A/D (Analog to digital) converter (in the PCM) reads it the same way; you just have to adjust the scale (reference chart) in the Microcontroller (PCM).
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From: I reached back like a pimp and smacked that LS1....
Here is my opinion on MAF's. (having dyno tuned more than a few hundred f-bodys).
An aftermarket MAF, such as our ZO6 conversion, usually is best suited to a relatively stock car that is not going to have any tuning. Usually some gains will be seen from a leaner air fuel ratio(and not because the unit is physically larger).
Stock MAF is the best IMHO, as it is perfectly accurate. We always suggest installing the stock MAF before dyno tuning. We have used stock screened mafs in 450+rwhp naturally aspirated cars, and 700+rwhp blower cars.
MAF ends, or ported maf ends should be completely avoided. Not only do you have no way of knowing what the calibration is, they are very erratic. I had a car on the dyno that would run 12-1 air fuel at WOT, I would let off the gas during the run and go WOT again and it would run 13.5-1 air fuel. Ported MAF was the problem. In fact, if there is a major air fuel ratio problem with a car, 99% of the time it will be due to a ported MAF or a MAF problem. You would not believe how many times I've seen this.
You can install a ZO6 maf in an LT1 and reprogram the PCM with the ZO6 maf table. I did this on my car when it was a naturally aspirated solid roller 383 and there was no difference in HP. The stock, screened maf is not restricting airflow or horsepower in any application that would still be using the stock PCM and a MAF.
An aftermarket MAF, such as our ZO6 conversion, usually is best suited to a relatively stock car that is not going to have any tuning. Usually some gains will be seen from a leaner air fuel ratio(and not because the unit is physically larger).
Stock MAF is the best IMHO, as it is perfectly accurate. We always suggest installing the stock MAF before dyno tuning. We have used stock screened mafs in 450+rwhp naturally aspirated cars, and 700+rwhp blower cars.
MAF ends, or ported maf ends should be completely avoided. Not only do you have no way of knowing what the calibration is, they are very erratic. I had a car on the dyno that would run 12-1 air fuel at WOT, I would let off the gas during the run and go WOT again and it would run 13.5-1 air fuel. Ported MAF was the problem. In fact, if there is a major air fuel ratio problem with a car, 99% of the time it will be due to a ported MAF or a MAF problem. You would not believe how many times I've seen this.
You can install a ZO6 maf in an LT1 and reprogram the PCM with the ZO6 maf table. I did this on my car when it was a naturally aspirated solid roller 383 and there was no difference in HP. The stock, screened maf is not restricting airflow or horsepower in any application that would still be using the stock PCM and a MAF.
Thanks for your post Jim.
I actually tried a couple of Z06 mafs (no clue if they were the recalibrated ones, but the Z06 table didn't help) on the dyno and the graph was always pretty screwy. Changed to a stocker and it was all nice. I won't even mention ported MAFs..
97FormulaWS-6,
I am 2 semesters away from my EE degree, so I know a thing or two about thermistors, but what I said above is based only on real observations, tuning on a dyno.
I actually tried a couple of Z06 mafs (no clue if they were the recalibrated ones, but the Z06 table didn't help) on the dyno and the graph was always pretty screwy. Changed to a stocker and it was all nice. I won't even mention ported MAFs..

97FormulaWS-6,
I am 2 semesters away from my EE degree, so I know a thing or two about thermistors, but what I said above is based only on real observations, tuning on a dyno.
well, then from an engineer's standpoint you should understand this...
I'm a ME with a minor in EE...
Basically it's just adjusting the A/D converter (Analog (Frequency) to digital) look-up tables in the microcontroller.. that's all changing the MAF requires to get it to work correctly if you have the correct table for the MAF. (Something that your "engineer" side should have considered, or have you not had any microcontroller programming classes yet?, just wondering, don't know how your program is setup and that would explain why that didn't come to mind right away)
I have not dyno'd my car before or after, but... When I did get my MAF originally I did not have th correct chart and got some "other" Z06 MAF tables off the internet that were WRONG.. I tried them and they were WAY off, my BLM's maxed out one way or another within 10 mins of drivng the car. Once I put the "good" MAF chart in my BLM's went to an almost perfect 128 across the board without ANY adjustments.
And the "good" chart was taken from a friends Z06 Vette 3 day's after he got LS1 edit which I was showning him how to use... Then it was run through Excel with an interpolation plug-in, and the values were interpolated so as to align the data points from the Z06 PCM to the LT1 PCM.
I'm a ME with a minor in EE...
Basically it's just adjusting the A/D converter (Analog (Frequency) to digital) look-up tables in the microcontroller.. that's all changing the MAF requires to get it to work correctly if you have the correct table for the MAF. (Something that your "engineer" side should have considered, or have you not had any microcontroller programming classes yet?, just wondering, don't know how your program is setup and that would explain why that didn't come to mind right away)
I have not dyno'd my car before or after, but... When I did get my MAF originally I did not have th correct chart and got some "other" Z06 MAF tables off the internet that were WRONG.. I tried them and they were WAY off, my BLM's maxed out one way or another within 10 mins of drivng the car. Once I put the "good" MAF chart in my BLM's went to an almost perfect 128 across the board without ANY adjustments.
And the "good" chart was taken from a friends Z06 Vette 3 day's after he got LS1 edit which I was showning him how to use... Then it was run through Excel with an interpolation plug-in, and the values were interpolated so as to align the data points from the Z06 PCM to the LT1 PCM.
Then it was run through Excel with an interpolation plug-in, and the values were interpolated so as to align the data points from the Z06 PCM to the LT1 PCM.
Also for the ones who remember the MAF translator?? what ever happened to that gismo?? has anyone ever used it? Was it just a frequency to frequency Interpolator? I know it probably works with the Stocker MAF only, cause it sounds like the Z06 may have a diff Airmass to frequency Curve.
By the way you dont need an engineers degree to know that D/A or A/D may refer to digital to analog or analog to digital. Any Circuit city CD Players Sales person will quickly bombard you with that kind of "superior language" to sell you the same CD player (with just a higher frequency) for a hundred dollars more. (sick).
Guys why dont you help each other out rather than to keep throwing your "I do know more than you do" dirt pies at each others face?
Even for the idiots like me, who do not have a "higher" education, that back and forth "battle of knowledge" you guys got going on here, looks totally inmature (childish). Stop going at it like shool kids cause "Me" the non-engineer member get lost in "higher education" language.
please
Thank you.
Of course I'm willing to share.. drop me an e-mail and I'll send it right off, infact I sent off 2 copies last night... I need to make a web-page but have no time... sucks...
and yes, i know the bickering matches get no where... But from my end it's frustraiting... I've used one for 2 years and done months of research on it.. I know how they work, why they work, and all the rest of it... but when I try to tell people... others step in and start telling "other" information that's typically partially incorrect depending on the information being conveyed...
hmm... I wish I could do a webpage... I'd just put ALL the information that I have collected throughout all my research and conversations on there... it's solve a lot of problems like this... Not that I know everything, but I put a lot of effort into this project... man I need more hours in a day...
and yes, i know the bickering matches get no where... But from my end it's frustraiting... I've used one for 2 years and done months of research on it.. I know how they work, why they work, and all the rest of it... but when I try to tell people... others step in and start telling "other" information that's typically partially incorrect depending on the information being conveyed...
hmm... I wish I could do a webpage... I'd just put ALL the information that I have collected throughout all my research and conversations on there... it's solve a lot of problems like this... Not that I know everything, but I put a lot of effort into this project... man I need more hours in a day...
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