short block time
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,034
From: Raleigh, NC
It SHOULD make more power and earlier, yes. But if 355 -> 383 is 500 rpm sooner, then 383 -> 396 would be more like 150 rpm, right?
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Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 363
From: spartanburg,sc usa
something else i saw earlier in this thread was srp pistons being close to the bottom of the barrel and to get diamonds instead. wtf?
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,705
I wouldn't go for the 396 because your planning to use stock castings. If you can afford an aftermarket casting (AFR 210's,220's) the 396 would be fine. The bigger motor is going to need a bigger head, look at the results guys are getting from stock castings and 355's. Stock casting fully ported or with le2 flow range are a great match for a 355, which explains many guys big numbers with minimal cubes.
The 396 is going to need more airflow than the stock castings can provide. I don't think your going to make any more hp with the 396 over the 383 with stock castings. good luck
The 396 is going to need more airflow than the stock castings can provide. I don't think your going to make any more hp with the 396 over the 383 with stock castings. good luck
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Raleigh, NC
I wouldn't trust SRP pistons on a 200 shot. They are nothing compared to diamonds. That's why they're in the budget motor packages. Good for most people, but not the best by a long shot.
I don't know what Lloyd can do with stock castings, but you should talk to him about whether they'll be enough for a 396 or not.
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Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 363
From: spartanburg,sc usa
Yes, but if you put the same cam into two different sized motors, they will peak differently and the power band will be different.
I wouldn't trust SRP pistons on a 200 shot. They are nothing compared to diamonds. That's why they're in the budget motor packages. Good for most people, but not the best by a long shot.
I don't know what Lloyd can do with stock castings, but you should talk to him about whether they'll be enough for a 396 or not.
I wouldn't trust SRP pistons on a 200 shot. They are nothing compared to diamonds. That's why they're in the budget motor packages. Good for most people, but not the best by a long shot.
I don't know what Lloyd can do with stock castings, but you should talk to him about whether they'll be enough for a 396 or not.
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,034
From: Raleigh, NC
Few things....
1. Assembly and checking clearances/tolerances goes a long way to making things live. The problem is on "Chinese" stuff that the parts usually need more tweaking to work. Then again the best pistons I've ever used are imported, but thats from across the other ocean, not the pacific.
2. Mass and piston speed are two things that need to be thought about for long term durability. You can run a weaker crank and block with lighter parts and less piston speed. If you put more stroke or more RPM in a motor it beats up on cranks and blocks, so you need stronger cranks, lighter parts and better block prep (4 bolt etc..)
3. Good Chinese parts = Eagle, Scat. If the pin bores are tight on the rods, they need to be fixed. You need to measure and set bearing clearances on the rods and mains and use different size bearings to get them right if need be. There are varied reasons to use and not use them, but most times they are on the more affordable side of the scale.
4. Good American parts = Crower, Manley, Lunati, Callies, Howards. There are a lot more but that's the more budget orinented stuff. These guys make some good cranks and rods, same assembly procedures apply.
5. Pistons = Diamond, Mahle would be my top two favorites. JE/SRP is on my **** list, Weisco, Ross, CP, BME, Lunati, Manley, Probe are not something I use commonly but they are all good as well. I know Weisco and Diamond are in Pro Stock motors with the Professor and KB Racing (Anderson/Line), Mahle is a big time NASCAR and Sports Car racing supplier.
Bret
1. Assembly and checking clearances/tolerances goes a long way to making things live. The problem is on "Chinese" stuff that the parts usually need more tweaking to work. Then again the best pistons I've ever used are imported, but thats from across the other ocean, not the pacific.
2. Mass and piston speed are two things that need to be thought about for long term durability. You can run a weaker crank and block with lighter parts and less piston speed. If you put more stroke or more RPM in a motor it beats up on cranks and blocks, so you need stronger cranks, lighter parts and better block prep (4 bolt etc..)
3. Good Chinese parts = Eagle, Scat. If the pin bores are tight on the rods, they need to be fixed. You need to measure and set bearing clearances on the rods and mains and use different size bearings to get them right if need be. There are varied reasons to use and not use them, but most times they are on the more affordable side of the scale.
4. Good American parts = Crower, Manley, Lunati, Callies, Howards. There are a lot more but that's the more budget orinented stuff. These guys make some good cranks and rods, same assembly procedures apply.
5. Pistons = Diamond, Mahle would be my top two favorites. JE/SRP is on my **** list, Weisco, Ross, CP, BME, Lunati, Manley, Probe are not something I use commonly but they are all good as well. I know Weisco and Diamond are in Pro Stock motors with the Professor and KB Racing (Anderson/Line), Mahle is a big time NASCAR and Sports Car racing supplier.
Bret
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From: Kansas
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,034
From: Raleigh, NC
That's what I thought. It should also take the nitrous better. If you have that much more money, maybe you can get a 4-bolt main. Let us know what you get and how much it costs.
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