LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

SHOCKS, balljoint's, Tie rod ENDS ALL THIS WEEKEND..any tips??????PLEase

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Old Apr 2, 2004 | 11:17 AM
  #1  
SATANAZ666's Avatar
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SHOCKS, balljoint's, Tie rod ENDS ALL THIS WEEKEND..any tips??????PLEase

Ok heres the deal guy's

I have bought the TIES ROD ENDS the Shocks and THE BALLJOINTS. and am planning on installing all of this this weekend. Any tips or hints on how to get this done as easy as possible.????????


Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Old Apr 2, 2004 | 11:19 AM
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hey im acutally thinkin about doing the same thing, how much did u pay for the balljoints and tierod ends? are they GM?
Old Apr 2, 2004 | 11:36 AM
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HELLO

wELL i BOUGHT MOST OFF THE STUFF AT AUTOZONE....

Ball joints were like 14.00 a piece and Tie rod ends like 25.00 a piece. And the shocks are just the SLP take offs that have been sitting in my garage for the past year.
Old Apr 2, 2004 | 11:40 AM
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Be sure to tighten everything up correctly. And to mark when you take off your tie rods to know where to put them back at. Take your time.
Old Apr 2, 2004 | 11:49 AM
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How detailed do you want to go on the procedure? Do you intend to separate the front spring/shock assembly yourself? Do you have a spring compressor?

I have an online procedure for doing shocks and springs.

http://members.aol.com/InjuneerZZ/HALEibch.htm

I would strongly recommend that you use a basic manual, like the Chilton's 4th Gen manual for reference on the ball joints and tie rod ends.
Old Apr 2, 2004 | 11:58 AM
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just another small thing, you do know that there are two ball joints and two tie rods per side right. Because your original post makes it sound like you just have a ball joint for one side and a tie rod for one side.

There is an outer and inner tie rod.
There are upper and lower ball joints.

Follow Fred's (injuneer) online guide. Very easy job once you use those steps. Also, like stated before, take your time and mark everything. Good luck
Old Apr 2, 2004 | 11:59 AM
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You will need to borrow the ball joint press from auto zone, and the tie rod separator tool.
Old Apr 3, 2004 | 12:24 AM
  #8  
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Just got finished doing what you are doing. Definately need ball joint separator "fork" that can be purchased for cheap or borrow from auto zone. Ball joint press that you can borrow from auto zone $100.00 deposit. The only way the ball joint press worked for me is with a compressor and impact, trying to wrench in and out didnt work for me. like stated before, mark everything so it is put back in right place may not even need alignment if put back in same place but alignment highly recommended. I took an ice pick and traced around the washers on the lower control arms making marks on k member. One other thing I would recommend is inspecting lower control arm rear bushings, mine were shot, replaced them also. Front lower control arm bushings were fine but replaced them, absolute HELL trying to remove them. Purchased everything from auto zone, perfect circle parts. Good luck.
Old Apr 3, 2004 | 12:42 AM
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From: conshohocken
im also in the middle of this project.someone said mark where the tierod is so u know how far to go??all you have to do is take off the old outer tie rod and twist the new one back on.easier said then done though,my drivers side tie rod wont budge
Old Apr 5, 2004 | 10:13 AM
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OK HOW HATRD IS IT GOING TO BE FOR ME TO TAKE OFF THE BALL JOINT IN THis ship???? Will I need to take the whole A-arm off and take it to a shop so they can take the old one off and press in a new one?? or can I just bang at it??
Old Apr 5, 2004 | 10:21 AM
  #11  
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The lower ball joints have to be pressed in and out. Do not attempt to bang them out, you will most likely ruin the control arm. If your using the auto zone press, it is much easier with the control arm out and in a sturdy vice. The upper ball joints are riveted on and you need to drill out the rivets to remove them. Much easier with a dremel.
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