I have a 1995 automatic Lt1 and sometimes i will shift manually by using 1,2,D,OD. I will shift from 1st to second at 4000 RPMs but the car wont actually shift until redline, and from 2nd to D, i will shift at around 2000 RPMS and the car wont actually shift until redline. Why wont the car shift right as your shifting? Will something like a shift kit make it so it shifts immediatly?

 

i'm guessing its not shifting as you are shifting because its not meant to be manually shifted

 

yeah, keep it simple, just put the car in d, and let it do the work for ya. for what its worth i gotta a friend runnin a 10 sec ls1 and he just leaves it in drive and nails it. Dont worry, just point and shoot, lol. Prorac1

 

You'll wear on your trans as well if you continue to slam it in 1st to 2nd and on....

 

Its gonna shift at the programmed shift point no matter what anyways, that's the whole point of an auto.

 

just like prorac1 said slam it in drive (d) and nail it, you will tear up your trans, if you continue shifting a computer programmed automatic, if you want to shift buy a t56 conversion and a used trans it will be cheaper than replacing a new automatic! i dont mean to sound like an a$$ but all youre doing is hurting the car good luck!

 

Alright then copntinue slamming it in 1st and then shifting to 2nd and let me know what happens a few thousand miles down the road...it's also bad for A4's to shift down from drive to 2nd and so on...

 

manually upshifting isnt neccessarily bad, its the downshiufting that will kill ya

 

You have the pedal to the metal, right? That's wide open throttle (WOT). Just curious here: why is it you want 2000 or 4000 shifts at WOT?

At WOT an automatic will shift at the programmed max shift point. This was chosen to give best acceleration on a stock driveline. To get it to shift earlier, you have to lift a little, but if you lift to shift then go back to WOT it may downshift again.

You can have it shift almost any rpm by accelerator movement, but WOT shifting is out of your hands...er, foot.

Unless the trans has been modified, it's almost dumb-proof: you can't over-rev the engine either by upshifting or down shifting manually. If you down shift manually a lot it does wear the clutches and/or bands a tad more.

As was suggested, put it in OD or D and let it shift. I don't think electronic programmers like HPP (for 4L60E) allow you to lower the shift points much, just raise them.

FWIW, on some later 4L60Es you can get a second gear start (for slippery conditions) by selecting 2. This feature will allow an early shift at WOT from 1-2; start in D, floor it, and shift to 2 when you want.

If you want complete manual shifting, you'll need a fairly extensive shift kit installed. You then will always have to shift manually.

 

I am glad you guys told me about slamming from 1 to 2nd and downshifting, because sometimes i will do that, I wont do it anymore........The reason I shifted at 2000 and 4000 is because thats where i needed to shift at WOT to compensate for the delay when the car actually shifts.

 

wrong.....he's doing nothing but distracting himslef. If he downshifts, then that presents a problem. They do make autos that do that. My stepfather's 71 RS has a 4 speed auto/manual tranny. He has full control over it until he puts it in drive.

 

As I understand it, it's this "letting up" on the accelerator to get an earlier shift that wears on the tranny.

Shifting the transmission yourself at WOT shouldn't hurt anything.......

But it may not necessarily help anything either, so.....

 

I guess I didn't explain it very well: at WOT manually shifting doesn't do anything. The PCM in a 4L60E or the governor and TV cable in a non-E 4L60 determine the WOT shift points, not the driver.

Try this:
1) do a WOT acceleration in OD and note the shift rpms.
2) do the same thing in D and note shift rpms.
3) do the sme thing but manually shift at 2000 or 4000 or whatever you want. Note shift rpms.
4) do a WOT run with trans in 1. Note shift rpms. Yes, it will shift.
CAUTION: after the 2-3 shift, you should probably move the lever to D before you lift to prevent downshift. It still won't let the engine overrev.

Are the shift rpms the same?

Make sure all runs are with your foot flat...no lifting.

The firmness of the shift is determined by rpm and throttle position. If you lift to shift, the trans adjusts for the less torque output from the engine and shifts accordingly. It doesn't wear out the transmission. Yeah, it knows.

Probably the most complex mechanism in a modern car is the automatic trans. Especially with electronic controls, a lot of engineering design and development went into shifting control. Heck, with certain 4T80E (Northstar) trans, if you drive aggressively on a twisty road, the trans picks a gear which will keep the engine in its power band and it won't shift out of that gear no matter what the throttle position until you quit pulling lateral gs. Yep, it senses g-loads on the car. IMO, that's cool. It works well.

My $.02