well i've got my car down for a couple days. this is my first time setting my rockers for zero lash and was confused about something. i followed the instructions on the shoebox site and it seemed to work okay until i got the #8 cyl, the intake rocker. i believe its supposed to be up when its at #6cly TDC, because all of the ones i can adjust were up on #6 and #1 TDC, everythign else worked fine..just this one was pointing down. any suggestions or is that normal? also how safe is it to run the motor at idle with the valve covers off? that is one of the methods but wouldnt oil go everywhere while you're trying to set the nut on top of the rockers? thanks in advance

-Chris

 

Rotate the engine around and watch both rockers at #8 to be sure they arrive at the closed position. Once they do, use the EO-IC method for that cylinder. When the exhaust is opening, adjust the intake. When the intake is closing, adjust the exhaust. Spin it one more time and check again for the proper drag.

You may want to check the others one more time. It appears you may have been on the wrong cylinder when you tried to adjust it. You may have done some others as well.

 

Its safe to run with valve covers off. Some say the amount of oil splashing out is minimal, I bought a set of clips at the auto store that clips on the rockers and plugs the oil hole.

 

Another vote for setting the valve lash with the engine up to operating temp and running.

Finding zero lash on a cold engine can be a lot of trial and error, and a huge waste of time...

 

Ya only a couple drops will come out while running. I do suggest some mechanix gloves though, because it can be hot hot hot.

 

I always adjust mine with the car running.

My way:
- Finger tight on all locks
- Turn the motor over a few times (i do it with the starter, no injector or ign fuse)
- double check finger tight
- start her up
- set them where you want them

 

ANOTHER vote for adjustment while running.. Just did this yesterday. Adjust rockers finger tight (dont crank them on with your fingers, just snug) Then with the car running go one by one and back off each rocker until it clacks then tighten until the clack goes away.

 

If worried about oil splashing, Make U shaped dams out of old newspaper about 5-6" high the length of the head and up the ends some[inside the 'valve cover lip' ] and toss em into a plastic bag when done..... no mess at all really[don't rev it tho!]

 

I had no oil splashing whatsoever... Some people claim they do... Who knows.

 

Depends on the pushrod hole size, rocker type, lifter type, and how tight it all is.

I got a little spilage, but nothing that doesn't burn off in 10 minutes worth of driving

 

awsome thank you guys a ton! i'm gonna finish getting my compression test done tomorrow, put all new plugs and wires back in and then set them all with it running, seems to be the best bet.

 

same here, when the engine is running

 

You must have gotten out of sequence or done something else. I have used that method for many years without an issue.

 

shoebox- i dont know what i could've done because i'm 100% sure it was at TDC when i was checking them. but now i have to wait till thursday to do any work on my car due to having to go into OT again. can't wait to get her running again

 

The static method, when done properly is perfectly fine..
In fact, if the valves are being adjusted initially, you have to do it that way[it won't run unless you do]
When I did mine, I double checked them with motor running, and they actually were right on, or VERY close to where I wanted them anyway.. didn't hurt to run thru them and check though, in case I had made an error..
Mine pumps enough oil to wet the newspaper dams quite a bit, but none flies all over..