I recently installed headers, and its running like a dog. Past 3k rpm it runs really good, but it will stumble bad when cruising, causing the shifter **** ( M6) to shake around real bad. I'm having an exhaust leak right after the header collectors, and had it fixed, but its still leaking a little bit. I was working today at my shop and has a mechanic pull the codes on my car.

13 Left O2 sensor bank - I have an exhaust leak there, so I figure after I get it fixed it will go away? Not sure.

32 EGR problem - EGR was fine before the install, everything seems to be good and snug, and don't see any appearent exhaust leaks ( made sure the vacuum on the egr was connected well too)

61 A/C compressor - its leaking freon all over it, and A/C is blowing hot. Looks like I'll need a new one.

I'm really just concerned about 13/32! Thanks guys!

 

The headers reduce the back pressure on the exhaust system. Less back pressure means less exhaust flow into the intake when the EGR valve opens. DTC 32 uses the MAP sensor reading to detect EGR flow when the PCM turns the EGR valve on and off. Its sort of unusual to get this on the OBD-I cars.... OBD-II its very common, but the diagnostic seems to be more sensitive.

Make sure the EGR valve and the hole at the back of the intake are clean and free of carbon, make sure there are no leaks in the EGR solenoid vacuum lines, which would reduce the actual amount the EGR valve opens. Make sure the EGR valve actually moves when vacuum is applied.

DTC 13 = Bank 1 (left) Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Circuit (open circuit)

That would indicate either a wiring problem or a failed sensor. Not an exhaust leak. Possible you burned a wire to the O2 sensor, or have faulty splices in an extension, if you used one. You can swap the O2 sensors side to side, to see if the problem follows the sensor (faulty sensor) or stays on the drivers side (faulty wiring).

 

Ahhh, so my left sensor or wiring is bunk? I ordered the extensions from casperselectronics, and ziptied them far from harms way! I'll have to look at it again. How would an lt1 run with that problem alone? I'm trying to determine what's making my car run so bad.

 

It seems as though you are always passing exhaust gas into the intake. Since your MAP pressures aren't changing enough and your running rough. A leaking exhaust can cause a DTC32. Just as mentioned before, lack of back pressure. Back pressure opens the valves internal bleed and vents the applied vacuum allowing the valve to close fully.

Try a manual override Scotty. (sorry just had to throw that in) Pull the vacuum line going to the EGR off at the solenoid and force a small amount of pressure into the hose. Like blowing into it. See if when you do, the engine runs a little smoother.

Another interesting experiment would be to partially block off the exhaust at the tail pipe with a rag. Slowly block a little more at a time to see if anything changes in the idle condition.

 

Man, thanks for the help! If that does the trick, which I think it should, what can I do to remedy it?

 

First fix the leak and see if that helps. If not do you have a cat?

 

My car is at the exhaust shop now to fix the leak. I have the pacesetter lt's with ory, so no cat ( in my sig ). I still have the cat, and if I have to I can have it put back on.

 

YESSS!!! Got her going strong now! It was the #6 cylinder, the wire was burnt all to hell. Replaced it ( moved it, and put a cover over it ) and now it runs awesome! Thanks for all and any help guys!