I can't figure out what is going on here. My car runs okay till it heats up then it idles rough and misses badly as soon as you try to let out the clutch. While I am going down the road I turn it off for like 5 seconds and then start it and it runs fine again for a few minutes. I put two new o2 sensors on it since this problem started. I put a new opti on it last summer, but who knows that could have been bad right out of the box. I may take it out and turn it back in under the warranty, but it seems like if it was bad it would have a different set of symptoms. I thought maybe wires, (which are also pretty new) but it shouldn't run fine after I restart it. I was thinking maybe the pcm, but I don't know. A buddy of mine suggested the fuel filter, he thought it may be clogging, but when I shut it off it let up, then would clog again, but I just changed that today.

Any thoughts????
I have all weekeng to tinker with it, so suggestions please!!!!!

 

MAF? MAP? It sounds like a sensor related problem once you hit open loop. maybe a big exhaust leak?

 

Last year I had the motor rebuilt while I was in Iraq, (Marine Corps). Well the shop that did the rebuild put the MAF on backwards and the car ran WAY too rich for like 6 mos. I don't know if that would cause it to go bad though. The guys at AP engineering found it when they did my dyno tune. I don't know how to test it without putting a new one on. I know if I unplug it, it will run bad, but wouldn't the miss go away at least? Then I would know the problem.

As far as the MAP, I will pick one of those up and see if that helps.

 

On other thing, when I replaced the o2 sensors, I had to splice in a new female end for one of them. I used the connectors that came with it. Should I have soldered it???

 

Where did you put the splice... in the harness, or in the sensor wires? In general, avoid cutting/splicing the sensor wires. On the harness, soldering is essential. You're working with millivolts here.... any loss in a poor connection is going to screw things up.
You mean when it hits closed loop.

 

When I bought the connector from the Chevy dealer it had about a foot of wire behind it, so I cut the old lines at about the same point and spliced them there. I used the heat shrink connectors that came in the package to connect them. Maybe I should cut them out and solder it. I used a lighter to shrink the plastic connectors, and when I did it seemed like I almost burned the wires just to shrink them.

What type of soldering gun should I use, and what kind of material???

 

Tonight I bought a new connector for my MAF and soldered it in because after looking at the old one I was sure that was my problem. But it wasn't. Althoughnow I am getting a bad idle when it runs for a little while. A lot like when you have the MAF disconnected. Is there any way to test the actual sensor?? It is next on my list as far as the answer to my problem, but I really don't want to spend the money on a new one until I am pretty sure it is the problem.