Running rich, need help!
Running rich, need help!
Just got done rebuild and running way rich. When i turn the key over i can hear fuel that sounds like its passing through the FPR or in the fuel rails? It seems pretty loud. Is this a symptom of a bad FPR? If its not this, it has to be in the tune i got from PCMFORLESS but i have loaded the tune now twice in the PCM and i am 99% sure the tune has been loaded properly. How long do you have to run the car to log a datamaster scan? The car will run now and i would like to run datamaster for a few mins and send it to pcmforless so he diagnosis it but i dont want to run the car for too long if the cylinder walls are still getting washed down with gas on my fresh rebuild. Need HELP, getting frustrated
Brandon
Brandon
Re: Running rich, need help!
Originally Posted by slopokrodrigez
Have you checked for a dead cylinder? Have you checked the oil for fuel contamination?
The place to start. Then go from there depending on what you find.
The place to start. Then go from there depending on what you find.
Brandon
Re: Running rich, need help!
Originally Posted by 96ZRDR
If your programming is right, and are no problems with fuel delivery or spark, I would look for a dead cylinder. Your valves may be too tight.
Brandon
Re: Running rich, need help!
With Datamaster, For starters
Step 1:Check your Long Term BLMS, if indeed you are runnning as rich as you describe they should be bottomed out at 108. If so, look at how it cycles through its Short Term BLMS, if they are low, then indeed you computer reads its rich.
Step 2: What is you idle vaccumm? Check your BAR and subtract MAP from it. This will = vaccumm in inches. If below 10 inches, you are in trouble.
Step 3: What are you idle steps/counts, if I am right you car should be registering 100-160 counts if indeed it is as rich as you say. You goal is to lower them to around 20-50 depending on the cam overlap. Some need more air, but this may be a side effect of dumping so much fuel. If so, you car is probably hunting for the target idle.
Step 4: What is your target idle rpm, if the you have a healty cam, you could go as much as 1,000 rpm.
Step 5: What does you mass airflow sensor say?
Step 6: Post your log somewhere so people may look at it.
This is just for starters. Do you have a programmer?
Step 1:Check your Long Term BLMS, if indeed you are runnning as rich as you describe they should be bottomed out at 108. If so, look at how it cycles through its Short Term BLMS, if they are low, then indeed you computer reads its rich.
Step 2: What is you idle vaccumm? Check your BAR and subtract MAP from it. This will = vaccumm in inches. If below 10 inches, you are in trouble.
Step 3: What are you idle steps/counts, if I am right you car should be registering 100-160 counts if indeed it is as rich as you say. You goal is to lower them to around 20-50 depending on the cam overlap. Some need more air, but this may be a side effect of dumping so much fuel. If so, you car is probably hunting for the target idle.
Step 4: What is your target idle rpm, if the you have a healty cam, you could go as much as 1,000 rpm.
Step 5: What does you mass airflow sensor say?
Step 6: Post your log somewhere so people may look at it.
This is just for starters. Do you have a programmer?
Re: Running rich, need help!
Originally Posted by 96ZRDR
With Datamaster, For starters
Step 1:Check your Long Term BLMS, if indeed you are runnning as rich as you describe they should be bottomed out at 108. If so, look at how it cycles through its Short Term BLMS, if they are low, then indeed you computer reads its rich.
Step 2: What is you idle vaccumm? Check your BAR and subtract MAP from it. This will = vaccumm in inches. If below 10 inches, you are in trouble.
Step 3: What are you idle steps/counts, if I am right you car should be registering 100-160 counts if indeed it is as rich as you say. You goal is to lower them to around 20-50 depending on the cam overlap. Some need more air, but this may be a side effect of dumping so much fuel. If so, you car is probably hunting for the target idle.
Step 4: What is your target idle rpm, if the you have a healty cam, you could go as much as 1,000 rpm.
Step 5: What does you mass airflow sensor say?
Step 6: Post your log somewhere so people may look at it.
This is just for starters. Do you have a programmer?
Step 1:Check your Long Term BLMS, if indeed you are runnning as rich as you describe they should be bottomed out at 108. If so, look at how it cycles through its Short Term BLMS, if they are low, then indeed you computer reads its rich.
Step 2: What is you idle vaccumm? Check your BAR and subtract MAP from it. This will = vaccumm in inches. If below 10 inches, you are in trouble.
Step 3: What are you idle steps/counts, if I am right you car should be registering 100-160 counts if indeed it is as rich as you say. You goal is to lower them to around 20-50 depending on the cam overlap. Some need more air, but this may be a side effect of dumping so much fuel. If so, you car is probably hunting for the target idle.
Step 4: What is your target idle rpm, if the you have a healty cam, you could go as much as 1,000 rpm.
Step 5: What does you mass airflow sensor say?
Step 6: Post your log somewhere so people may look at it.
This is just for starters. Do you have a programmer?
I have unlimited tunes through PCMFORLESS, i just need to get a scan and send it to him so he can diagnosis and burn me another program. I just want to get the car running right before i send him scans but i guess it wouldnt hurt if i sent him a scan of what the car is doing now. Whats the shortest amount of time i can run a scan to get the accurate amount of data i am looking for? Thanks for all your help so far.
Brandon
Re: Running rich, need help!
Originally Posted by 96ZRDR
At least 5 minutes, it must be warm 200+
Brandon
Re: Running rich, need help!
In order to contaminate the oil, you would have either a leak or a dead cylinder. To find a dead cylinder, I use an infrared thermometer. With headers it works great, just measure the temp. of each tube about 4 inches from the head. The one that is not firing is the cool one.
If you don't have an I.T. you can do the squirt bottle trick and see if the water doesn't burn off the cool one or just pull one injector plug at a time until you find the one that doesn't effect the idle when you pull it off. The problem with that is, it's confusing pulling plugs off if you have more than one dead cylinder. Since you may have swapped plug wires without realizing it, that is a good possibility.
If every cylinder is firing, you have a leak. The only 2 things that can leak and make it run rich are leaky injectors or a hole in the FPR diaphragm. Both problems can make your fuel pressure drop fast once the engine is shut down. To check the FPR for a hole, pull the vac line off and see if it's wet or suck on the hose connected to the FPR to see if fuel comes out. Be careful obviously. However, a faulty FPR will tend to show a problem with the passenger bank of cylinders more than the others since the vac line is on that side and that's where the fuel tends to collect.
If the injectors are leaking, pull them up with the fuel rail connected so you can see the tips and put 12 volts on the fuel pump prime connector(all other power off). Now with the system pressurized, look at each injector to see if there are any dripping.
Dave
If you don't have an I.T. you can do the squirt bottle trick and see if the water doesn't burn off the cool one or just pull one injector plug at a time until you find the one that doesn't effect the idle when you pull it off. The problem with that is, it's confusing pulling plugs off if you have more than one dead cylinder. Since you may have swapped plug wires without realizing it, that is a good possibility.
If every cylinder is firing, you have a leak. The only 2 things that can leak and make it run rich are leaky injectors or a hole in the FPR diaphragm. Both problems can make your fuel pressure drop fast once the engine is shut down. To check the FPR for a hole, pull the vac line off and see if it's wet or suck on the hose connected to the FPR to see if fuel comes out. Be careful obviously. However, a faulty FPR will tend to show a problem with the passenger bank of cylinders more than the others since the vac line is on that side and that's where the fuel tends to collect.
If the injectors are leaking, pull them up with the fuel rail connected so you can see the tips and put 12 volts on the fuel pump prime connector(all other power off). Now with the system pressurized, look at each injector to see if there are any dripping.
Dave
Re: Running rich, need help!
Originally Posted by slopokrodrigez
In order to contaminate the oil, you would have either a leak or a dead cylinder. To find a dead cylinder, I use an infrared thermometer. With headers it works great, just measure the temp. of each tube about 4 inches from the head. The one that is not firing is the cool one.
If you don't have an I.T. you can do the squirt bottle trick and see if the water doesn't burn off the cool one or just pull one injector plug at a time until you find the one that doesn't effect the idle when you pull it off. The problem with that is, it's confusing pulling plugs off if you have more than one dead cylinder. Since you may have swapped plug wires without realizing it, that is a good possibility.
If every cylinder is firing, you have a leak. The only 2 things that can leak and make it run rich are leaky injectors or a hole in the FPR diaphragm. Both problems can make your fuel pressure drop fast once the engine is shut down. To check the FPR for a hole, pull the vac line off and see if it's wet or suck on the hose connected to the FPR to see if fuel comes out. Be careful obviously. However, a faulty FPR will tend to show a problem with the passenger bank of cylinders more than the others since the vac line is on that side and that's where the fuel tends to collect.
If the injectors are leaking, pull them up with the fuel rail connected so you can see the tips and put 12 volts on the fuel pump prime connector(all other power off). Now with the system pressurized, look at each injector to see if there are any dripping.
Dave
If you don't have an I.T. you can do the squirt bottle trick and see if the water doesn't burn off the cool one or just pull one injector plug at a time until you find the one that doesn't effect the idle when you pull it off. The problem with that is, it's confusing pulling plugs off if you have more than one dead cylinder. Since you may have swapped plug wires without realizing it, that is a good possibility.
If every cylinder is firing, you have a leak. The only 2 things that can leak and make it run rich are leaky injectors or a hole in the FPR diaphragm. Both problems can make your fuel pressure drop fast once the engine is shut down. To check the FPR for a hole, pull the vac line off and see if it's wet or suck on the hose connected to the FPR to see if fuel comes out. Be careful obviously. However, a faulty FPR will tend to show a problem with the passenger bank of cylinders more than the others since the vac line is on that side and that's where the fuel tends to collect.
If the injectors are leaking, pull them up with the fuel rail connected so you can see the tips and put 12 volts on the fuel pump prime connector(all other power off). Now with the system pressurized, look at each injector to see if there are any dripping.
Dave
Brandon
Re: Running rich, need help!
Well i finally figured out my problem. One of the injector fueses was blown so only four of the cylinders had injectors that were properly working. Now i just want someone to explain to me what the car was doing as a result of this? Were those four cylinders loaded up with fuel all the time because of the injectors not working or what? Thanks for the help and ill try to get a video posted of the car since she's running right now.
Later,
Brandon
Later,
Brandon
Re: Running rich, need help!
That would explain the problem.
The bank with the blown fuse with run extremely lean, (4 dead pistons) which will prompt the PCM to load up on fuel. If this is true, you should have seen BLM over around 160 (lean condition, correction = add fuel).
These 4 cylinders would not see fuel due to no power at the injector. Each injector fires when the PCM grounds it, power should be present at all times when the engine is on.
I would be concerned with the cylinders that did receive fuel during this whole ordeal. The finish could have been significantly reduced and thus compression could be down.
Glad to see you found your problem.
The bank with the blown fuse with run extremely lean, (4 dead pistons) which will prompt the PCM to load up on fuel. If this is true, you should have seen BLM over around 160 (lean condition, correction = add fuel).
These 4 cylinders would not see fuel due to no power at the injector. Each injector fires when the PCM grounds it, power should be present at all times when the engine is on.
I would be concerned with the cylinders that did receive fuel during this whole ordeal. The finish could have been significantly reduced and thus compression could be down.
Glad to see you found your problem.
Re: Running rich, need help!
Another thing, in a previous post you posted that all of you plugs were pitch black (misfire, rich condition), that is not possible with a cylinder not receiving fuel. Those should be gray/tanish, they would charred as if they were through extreme tempatures.
Also, It would be nearly impossible for you motor to run in this condition. It would probably shake the whole car. Make sure things are correct.
Also, It would be nearly impossible for you motor to run in this condition. It would probably shake the whole car. Make sure things are correct.
Re: Running rich, need help!
All the plugs were getting gas and there was a blown fuse, i am positive of that. All plugs were the same color and it was running very rich. Could the blown fuse allow the injectors to be stuck open all the time so all the cylinders were actually firing but the four that were open were just loading too much fuel into those cylinders? Maybe i should still get a data log and send it to you so you can look over it. Do you think you might have some time to look over it for me if i sent you a data log through datamaster? The car is running good now after the fuse was replaced, thats the only think i am sure about right now. Thanks for the help.
Brandon
Brandon


