Whenever i turn my steering wheel to the left or right the rpm's will drop to like 500 and sumtimes drop so low causing my car to die. Also when it idles it sometimes jumps around and will drop down a few hundred and then settle back to like 900 or so.
Does anyone know what would cause this?

Thanks
blaze

 

power steering pump pulley puts stress on the crank pully which puts stress on the crank slowing it down a lil..its normal to drop a little bit..but not stall.

 

Eratic idle can be due to IAC problems or MAF problems. Clean both and test the MAF if cleaning doesn't do the trick. Don't over oil the K&N.

 

I've got the hotcam as well. I've stalled a few times when backing out of a parking space or something. Maybe the tune could be slightly off? Idle may need to be raised a little to account for the cam. How often does this happen? Everyday, every other day, a few times/week?

 

this happens to me as well but im running a much more agressive cam. it usually happens when im backing out of a parking lot or from my driveway. i have to brake and keep my foot in the gas to keep it from dying. sometimes it will go to 500rpm and it just starts surging like crazy to try and bring the vacuum back up. all the while i have my foot on the gas and almost going through the floorboards. i have some tuning/electrical issues but if everything is in working order just bump up the idle some. i did the same thing with my bro's 95z, by bending the throttle stop just a little bit and no more problems.

 

I havent got it tuned for the cam yet i just keep putting it off. But im not passing emissions so i guess it's time to do that. My car was running super rich for a while so it was running horrible so i don't remember it doing this.
When i back up my car wants to start bucking but im sure it use to do that before i replaced the o2 sensors. So i'm guessing it's sumthing do with having a cam and when i turn the wheels the vaccum pressure drops to low?

 

Here's the perfect example of not giving everyone ALL of the information.

Both posted on the same day in 2 different threads.

Anyone doubt the second quote has anything to do with the first quote.



Then there is this jewel

What are you expecting? Someone to tell you to "reach down and turn this widget a quarter turn to the left" and that cures your problem?????

Come on man

To make things even more confusing, he has "MADZ28 tune" in his signature but said in the last post that he hasn't gotten it tuned yet

 

Stop being so rough on the guy. "A youngling, he is".

Oh I got to put those Starwars movies away.

 

Slopoke must be an investigative reporter for the Washington Post. Maybe he could get an interview with someone in the White House?

Are you two related: (SloPoke & Speedy)???

 

Ok i'm sorry I didnt include all the information. I had a mechanic do some rewiring and I thought he had replaced the knock sensor and wire but when i got under my car yesterday I noticed the knock sensor was still bad. So I didn't even know about the knock sensor until I got under my car which was after I posted about the idle problem . I also found that the optispark vaccum hose has a big cut in it from the pully cutting into it. And I do have a madz28 tune but I got it before the cam was put in. That's why I said IT HASEN'T BEEN TUNED FOR THE CAM.

I just did the resistor mod but I have no idea if it's working. My car will still throw a SES light after about 5 minutes of running. I also can't ever get my car to scan. The last mechanic said when he tried it would come with the Error Key Not On however the keys were in.(he knew about the whole Ob1 computer with ob2 connector) So it kind of sucks trying to figure out why i'm throwing the code when I can't scan my car.
Also does anyone know if autozone would have the vaccum hose for the optispark.

 

Take the old one in & they should have lots of vacuum hoses to size it up to.

 

We're couzins. No just kidding. I never met him before in my life.

For the person in question. You will have to be able to view sensor data in real time if you want to deal with problems. Particularly if you are going to modify the machine.

As far as just dealing with codes goes. If you had a 94, no problem and if you had a 96, again no problem. There are low cost code scanners available for both. But the bastard child you have being an OBDII ALDL connector with an OBDI computer cuts commercially available scanners down to very few expensive models. The Snap-on units are good examples that work. So in this case you are screwed.

The only (lower cost) solution is get a cable, software and a laptop.