LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Knocking/ticking noise

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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 10:04 AM
  #1  
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Knocking/ticking noise

Ok, so after reading a few other peoples posts about this sort of problem, i think I have some type of lifter problem or something. And I know that some ticking is ok on these LT1's but i kno this is to loud. Since I bought the car it has been making the ticking/knocking noise which seems to be coming from under the pass. side valve cover. I did at one point adjust the rocker arms and the noise seemed to quiet down considerably and the car idled a lot smoother, but could still be heard. Now, 2 months later, the ticking is louder than ever and the car idles a lil rough and will go between 600-1000rpms. Car drives fine, the noise just seems to be getting worse and the noise does get louder with acceleration.

My question is, what can I do to fix this problem. I want to get some 1.6RR's soon so should I just buy them & lifters (will that fix the problem), also what other things would I need with them and where should I buy them. Well, if anyone can help, i'd appreciate it. thanks

I will try and post a video of it later, if it will help
Old Jan 18, 2007 | 10:18 AM
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Just saw this post in another thread...this sounds like everything i would need, that is, if it will fix my ticking and I would love the extra HP!

[Quote]"Well, here is my final parts list. I don't have prices for all of it yet but will update this post with prices when I get them.

1. LT4 valve springs p/n 12495494 (handles up to 0.525 lift)
2. LT4 valve spring keys p/n 12495503
3. LT4 valve spring cap kit (retainers) p/n 12495492
4. LT4 valve spring shims (sold individually, you need 16) p/n 10212809
5. Comp Cams Pro Magnum 1.6RR 3/8 stud self-aligning, p/n CAM1318-16, $270 + shipping from Combination Motorsports
6. Tim's Tool Valvespring Compressor, e-mail Ramair69gto@sbcglobal.net to order, $30 shipped
7. ARP 3/8" Rocker Arm Studs, 1.75" length, p/n ARP-134-7101, $40 shipped from Summit
8. GM Hydraulic Roller Lifters for 93-95 LT1 F-body, p/n 5234890, $20 each (need 16)
9. Chrome Moly pushrods, unknown brand, stock length 7.200"

Some notes: I got the pushrods, rockers, and lifters used off various F-body boards so I paid far less than the retail prices quoted above. You may want to use p/n 17120735 for lifters as they are a newer design for 96-97 F-body, or go with Comp or an aftermarket brand as the GM stock lifters aren't cheap. All the LT4 springs/locks/retainers/shims were purchased from Dal, I will update their prices when I get them. I decided to go with Tim's Tool valvespring compressor because I have heard the rear-most springs are a PITA and Tim's Tool supposedly makes it pretty easy. ARP Rocker Arm Studs aren't a requirement but they are cheap insurance on a 118K mile motor like mine, the same could be said for the lifters and pushrods."[QUOTE]
Old Jan 18, 2007 | 10:40 AM
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Unless you have already ordered the springs, I'd get some stronger ones. If plan on throwing in a cam someday, you will most likely have to get springs again....some nice dual springs would give you some piece of mind-----otherwise the LT4s are fine. JMHO
Old Jan 18, 2007 | 10:45 AM
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get a vid up, my spun bearing sound like that, we thought it was rockers at first.
Old Jan 18, 2007 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Critter
get a vid up, my spun bearing sound like that, we thought it was rockers at first.
That sounds a lil worse I will get the video up asap
Old Jan 18, 2007 | 11:48 AM
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Heres the video...and for some reason it is hard to hear on this vid. but trust me, its there. And it is also about three times as loud inside the car.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CuMb0IgUDKs
Old Jan 18, 2007 | 12:35 PM
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tried to watch it and got this:

This is a private video. If you have been sent this video, please make sure you accept the sender's friend request.
Old Jan 18, 2007 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Critter
tried to watch it and got this:

This is a private video. If you have been sent this video, please make sure you accept the sender's friend request.
video should be availavle now, sorry about that
Old Jan 18, 2007 | 03:25 PM
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The sound quality is not real good. I took my car to the shop and they said it sounded like a exhaust leak. My tick will go away after the car warms up making me think it is. The metal will expand in the exhaust headers as it heats up so does your sounds disappear after its warm?
Old Jan 18, 2007 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mrmint69
The sound quality is not real good. I took my car to the shop and they said it sounded like a exhaust leak. My tick will go away after the car warms up making me think it is. The metal will expand in the exhaust headers as it heats up so does your sounds disappear after its warm?
Not at all, the sound is always there, everytime i drive it and does not go away. pretty sure its not the exhaust. It gets louder when accelerating so Im almost 100% sure it has to do with something under the pass. side valve cover where im hearing it. Just dont know exactly how to diagnose "what" it is and how to correct it.
Old Jan 19, 2007 | 11:45 AM
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after talking to some other people, im pretty sure I think it is a lifter problem, problem is that I tightened them down before and it didnt go away so what should i do, do i need to replace them
Old Jan 19, 2007 | 03:31 PM
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that is def not a rod knock, trust me i had one. has to be exhaust or lifter problem.
Old Jan 19, 2007 | 04:19 PM
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I bought a stethoscope from Schucks for $10 and i can hear injectors, alternator, exhaust and anything you can put it up against. I could hear the lifters with the valve cover on and this saved my a lot of time narrowing down my problem.
Old Jan 19, 2007 | 05:27 PM
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I'll put money on the possibility you have a loose plug. MANY folks think the sound is that of ticking. And of course the loose plugs causes misfiring leading to a rough engine.

Very few ticking lifters make the engine run poorly enough to cause roughness.

Won't cost anything to see if it is the case
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