I am assuming that after 85,000 the optispark is now dead. The symptoms are

:RPM stumble when idle, like it wants to die
:When warmed up bad sputtering of power
:exhaust sounds like SHT, sputtering
:Slight ticking noise, but not a metal tick



What do you all think? I am probably going to order a new optispark tommorro and a coil as well. Anything else I should know or check first? How about install time?

As well, all the spark plugs are on tight and all the wires are fine. Engine sounds like it is running stong with the expeption of trembling alot when idle or bearly on the gas. I just hope it is not the fuel pump.

 

It could be, but there are also a lot of other things it could be.

I just changed the opti 3 weeks ago hoping to get rid of the "STUMBLE" low and high rpms, but to no prevail.

I have new coil (GM), plug wires (GM), NGK TR55 plugs, and now new opti!

Changing those parts have worked for some while many others are still trying to figure it out. You should change the opti anyway, it will probably help.

 

I have the same thing, chech my "Miss and Detonation" thread and also here is one for you too, its a long one.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...n&pagenumber=1

-Dustin-

 

could it possiblsy be coil or fuel pump?

 

If anyone is interested I Have Brand new Opti still in box from Jason cromer its the 95-97 Vented style and a 6 month old MSd Blaster coil for sale as well. I have upgraded to the $700.00 Delteq system. I payed 222.00 Shipped for my opti and my coil was $45.00 Make me an offer and I will sell this stuff. Thanks

 

Yes, but it also might not be.

If any of your ingition parts are stock I would replace them. It's a start.

 

How do you like the Delteq?

Do you have any issues with it?

Why did you upgrade, did you have a problem before?

Thx,
Claude

 

Well for my 2 cents worth. I would replace the EGR valve. I think the opti is overly misdiagnosed as the culprit. I had roughly the same symptoms as you for almost 2 years and tried everything. Nothing worked. I even tested the EGR valve by pushing in on the diaphram to see if the car stumbled and it did so I assumed the EGR was working properly. A couple of weeks ago I was ready to sell the car because I didnt think I was ever going to get it fixed. Along time ago I had ordered a new EGR valve and never put it on because I thought the other was working so I figured It wont hurt to replace it since I already have the part. Fifteen minuates later the car ran perfect like it did the day I bought it and has ran great since then. Egr valves are alot cheaper than an opti.

 

id check ur coil at autozone, they do it for free... then id check ur wires this was my problem when my engine was under a load the electricity would leave where the pullys had damaged it and where the manafolds had damaged it the next time...

the wires will not matter if they are new, if they ever touch the pullys they are done for.

Edit: seeing that it waits till its warm its probably not ur opti rather something that affects the fuel ratio... possibly o2 sensors, any kind of missfire, injector failing...

wait till it gets warm and disconnect the MAF, if ur problem goes away its definatly not ur opti, and my best be it something that has to do w/ ur fuel ratio.

 

I disconnected my MAF to try to find my problem and the car friggin shut off. Its not supposed to do that is it?

-Dustin-

 

hrmm i donno start it w/o it being connected... yea it probably will do that... sorry

i guess if it senses that no air is coming it... no fuel bye bye idle...

sorry

 

Scan your car. It could be your O2's