LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Rough accel/hesitation gets progressively worse when warm

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Old Mar 28, 2004 | 07:12 PM
  #1  
phibud72's Avatar
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From: Bluffton, SC
Unhappy Rough accel/hesitation gets progressively worse when warm

Hello all,

This is my first time posting under my new name. Lost my last name due to a ISP switch, lost my email

Anyways, let me give you a little background of my problem.

Long time ago I ran into a huge puddle of water. It was causing a hesitation upon acceleration above 2k rpms. Brought it to a dealer cauz I had no freakin clue what the problem was. Dealer said it's gonna cost around 1500-2000 dollars to fix. I was like wtf. They said it needed spark plug wires, fuel pump, dist, cap, rotor, and maybe even a couple other things. They also said it was all or nothing. Meaning I would have to fix it all or it wouldnt fix the problem. I said no, walked away POed and said to myself, "Lets try the spark plugs and wires first". Pulled out all the spark plugs and wires and found out water corrosion was in one plug and oil was in another. After replacing the plugs and wires everything was good except when i hit 4k+ rpms and it would pop. Turns out my coil wire was almost severed in half when i changed my plugs. Replace the coil wire and everything was running great til a couple days ago.

When I start it up, it runs great until it heats up. 15mins into a drive it starts to have a rough acceleration with misses and pops. It seems to only be at the 3k+ rpms until it gets even hotter. The longer the car is on, the worse it gets. 2.5k+ then 2k+ then finally just cruising around it pops and misses. I've seen a few similar problems that suggest a bad coil/fuel pump/opticrap/o2 sensors. But I'm trying to narrow it down and start cheap. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

-Phil
Old Mar 28, 2004 | 07:16 PM
  #2  
convertz's Avatar
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From: Livingston, New Jersey
I had a problem like that caused by a torn intake elbow.

It would lean out quit a bit compared to what the MAF was seeing. It runs good at first because the MAF isnt involved in the open loop the PCM goes through at startup.


car also heats up a lot faster cause of the lean condition
Old Mar 28, 2004 | 07:25 PM
  #3  
ZDriver96's Avatar
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From: Tampa Florida
my moms did what your car did.. run fine cold, warm up runs ****ty..

it was the optispark
Old Mar 28, 2004 | 07:56 PM
  #4  
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Posts: 527
From: Orlando, FL
Same problem here also. I changed my plugs, wires and coil didn't help the problem. Now I'm in the middle of an opti install, I hope this solve my problem.
Old Apr 18, 2004 | 09:03 PM
  #5  
phibud72's Avatar
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From: Bluffton, SC
ok new update.

recently had my codes done and I got
16
36
41
42

all of them have to deal with optispark so thats what I'm gonna try and replace within the next week or so. I'll let you know how it goes.

it also gave a low TPS so i replaced the tps too...but that didnt seem to do much.

-Phil
Old May 28, 2004 | 12:31 PM
  #6  
phibud72's Avatar
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Solved...optispark was the culprit...
Old May 28, 2004 | 02:31 PM
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From: Indianapolis, Indiana
Did it take you two months to do the Opti?! Glad it solved your problem.
Old May 29, 2004 | 12:43 PM
  #8  
phibud72's Avatar
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From: Bluffton, SC
heh..not really, just late on posting....thought i would come back to post to help other people solve their opti problems.
Old Jun 1, 2004 | 06:15 PM
  #9  
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I hate to ressurrect this fairly dead topic, but I'm having the same problem as the original poster. Is my only hope to get a factory replacement GM optispark unit, and how much would that cost? Is there a better aftermarket unit that won't crap out as fast? Thanks in advance.
Old Jun 3, 2004 | 05:00 PM
  #10  
phibud72's Avatar
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From: Bluffton, SC
i got my factory replacement from Mr Cromer for 307 with shipping. I think the factory ones for the 93-94 go for around 370. There are a couple after market ones that dont crap out but they are around 550-650. not so cheap.

Hope this helps...

-Phil
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