Rotor Replacement Suggestion
I respect Trey and his braking knowledge is huge.
Having said that, I have cross drilled and slotted rotors with performance friction pads and this setup outperforms and feels better than the blank rotors even with good pads.
I will say I don,t auto cross or road race, I am strictly a drag racer and the crossdrilled and slotted rotors work much better hauling my car down for the turn off than anything I have used to date.
I warped blanks like they were going out of style, the cross drilled and slotted ones have had no such issues.
Having said that, I have cross drilled and slotted rotors with performance friction pads and this setup outperforms and feels better than the blank rotors even with good pads.
I will say I don,t auto cross or road race, I am strictly a drag racer and the crossdrilled and slotted rotors work much better hauling my car down for the turn off than anything I have used to date.
I warped blanks like they were going out of style, the cross drilled and slotted ones have had no such issues.
hell yeah over here in germany i have warped blanks so bad that the whole car would shake violently. after the crossdrilled slotted were put on i have not had a problem with that anymore and my braking improved.....so all those braking experts explain that
second i guarantee i drive faster than anyone on this board as an average each day my normal speed just going to work is upwards 110 so you cant tell me that there was no benefit from the rotors because i was warping the hell outa blanks and i have had no probs with these so again i ask the brake experts on this thread to explain
second i guarantee i drive faster than anyone on this board as an average each day my normal speed just going to work is upwards 110 so you cant tell me that there was no benefit from the rotors because i was warping the hell outa blanks and i have had no probs with these so again i ask the brake experts on this thread to explain
Why don't you tell us what blanks you are using-maybe they're a bad brand. Also what pads? Some cheap pads (like oems) can leave an uneven distribution of pad material on the rotor's surface-which "feels" just like a warped rotor. It's possible the slots and/or holes are shaving the pads and preventing this build-up. Many people on LS1.com's Autocross and & Road Racing forum have noticed that "warped rotors" disappear when they switch to better pads like hawks. I autocross all the time and I haven't been able to warp my ac delco blanks. I even have HAWK HP+ pads which are really aggressive (much more than HPS) on my car.
http://www.jonaadland.com/MovitBrakes.html
Look at the vanes of the rotors- they are designed to get air in and out. Most of your cross-drilled rotors aren't designed to work like that. The holes don't take up much surface area as they might on our rotors. For us with our undersized rotors any reduction in mass makes us that more likely to fade. When it comes to those porsche rotors they are already huge to begin with. Another reason for cross-drilled rotors is weight reduction.
All I have to say is that after looking at the old Porsche 996TT the engineers over there in germany seem to be a fan of the Drilled rotors, and those people KNOW brakes. Im not saying this is relevent to aftermarket Fbody rotors, but if drilled rotors were archaic technology no longer required by modern brakepads, dont you think these guys would be one of the first to know?
Look at the vanes of the rotors- they are designed to get air in and out. Most of your cross-drilled rotors aren't designed to work like that. The holes don't take up much surface area as they might on our rotors. For us with our undersized rotors any reduction in mass makes us that more likely to fade. When it comes to those porsche rotors they are already huge to begin with. Another reason for cross-drilled rotors is weight reduction.
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