I bought a set of used 1.5 aluminum roller rockers from a guy that said they were self aligning. Well i used the tech page from Shoebox, which is very good, and tightened the rockers 1/4 turn past zero lash. After starting the car within 10 seconds one of the roller tips worked its way off the post.I then tried to adjust them with no luck the rollers would just misalign. I was wondering if someone has a picture of self aligning and non aligning rockers. After looking at these again i dont see how they would self align. Needless to say i have never messed with rockers before and any help would be greatly appreciated...My buddy who has a ls1 Trans am said this was an easy upgrade, but apparently not as easy as it was on his car.

 

The self-aligning roller rockers have little washers on both sides of the roller that keeps it on the valve stem. The stock stamped ones had little bosses that did the same thing. Non-self aligning rockers don't have anything protruding on the sides of the rocker to keep it from moving sideways off the valve stem.

 

Interesting, I thought the Hanes Manual said to tighten the rocker till the rod doesnt move up and down anymore and then go 3/4 of a turn tighter.

 

depends on the lifters, but your right stock lifters, 1/2 to 3/4

 

Thanks for the info, I am pulling my hair out trying to figure this stuff out. I have looked at the hanes manual, this sites threads and shoeboxes stuff. What I cant seem to understand is when to tighten which rocker down and when the cylinder 1 or 6 is at TDC at the top or bottom. The zero lash is a cake walk but when to do each rocker is my problem. Also how do I know which rocker is intake and which one is exhaust and where does number 1 start haha HELP!

 

First off, I highly recommend one of these remote starter switches. Hook one end to the solenoid switch, and the other on the positive battery terminal on the starter. Hit the switch with the ignition OFF to bump the engine to where you want it. It takes the game out going in order to lash the valves based on the position of Cyl #1 and #6. You can do a whole bank at a time with this switch (not all cylinders at once, but no need to go worry about where Cyl #1, and #6 are). You can Lash both rockers at once for a cylinder once you find that the valves are closed. Simply bump the switch until both valves on that particular cylinder are closed, also known as the lifters being at the base of the cam lobes. With stock lifters, spin the pushrod by hand, and turn the nut until the pushrod meets resistance with your spinning. At that point, turn the nut a 1/2 turn as suggested and lock the polylock if equipped. If just a stock stamped nut, just leave it (used with stamped steel rockers).

To find the lobe base on the lifter, what I do is bump the switch until the exhaust lifter opens, when it closes, the intake will open. Now when the intake closes, bump the switch a hair until you see another cylinders rocker begin to move, then stop. This is how I determine that the base of the cam lobe is sitting on the lifter, and that the intake and exhaust valves did not move (open) on the cylinder I'm working on while making that extra bump with the switch.

To determine what the exhaust and intake rockers are. An easy way is to look at the exhaust port on your manifold or header... It'll line up with the exhaust rocker/valve... The opposite rocker would then be your intake rocker.

Exhaust ports outside head:

O .....O O..... O

On the head, the rockers would be (I, intake; E, exhaust)

EI... IE EI ... IE

 

Phatcaprice Thanks for all your help! Will have to study what you have wrote more and give it a try. Those starter switches aren't that much? Thanks again!

 

I found this, might be interesting for people who want to see rockers in action and dont know how they work. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FuoUpnFBKK0

Comp Cams have a video also on how to do this which is helping understanding the technique... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GbmXSK7VI0&NR=1

 

That comp video really helps me understand whats going on.... ill add that to my saved list....

 

It sounds like youve got non-self aligning rockers and your gonna need guide plates to keep them on the valve stem. If your not sure which one is intake or exhaust, the easiest way to tell is look and see which rockers are lines up with the manifold/header port.

 

Possibly you should consider some S/A 1.6 RRs which will provide you about .030" additional lift at the valve and some performance improvement over 1.5s.

WD

 

How much additional performace will that add? And do I have to add longer rods?

Also how much do regular rockers and comp rockers cost?

Is there much difference in adjusting comps vs regular rockers? and where do poly locks install on the rockers?

I didnt realize that the exhaust and intake are on the same rocker... correct?

 

this is also a good idea, but if i already had a set of nsa i woudl prolly just get the guidplates and chromolly pushrods for like 80

 

Yes, you can make 1.5s work, however, they will not provide the performance improvement (additional .030" lift) the 1.6s could give you. Small performance improvements add-up!

WD

 

1. People usually see around 10rwhp over a stock 1.5 rocker by going with a 1.6rr. The stock rocker is 1.5 ratio. No you dont need longer pushrods, but if you use the non-self aligning rockers that you have then your gonna need guide plates and hardened push rods.

2. There really isnt much difference in adjusting the different rockers. Ive never had poly-locks on my rockers but I am pretty sure they are on the nut that you tighten the rocker down with.

3. I am not sure exactly what you mean by " exhaust and intake being on the same rocker". Each cylinder has an intake rocker (lined up with the intake port on the head) and an exhaust rocker (lined up with the manifold/header primary). You'll get a better idea of what your dealing with once you get in there and start the work. Good luck with whatever you decide. Hope this answers some of your questions.