So i'm finishing up an engine build... its a forged 355, h beam rods, with a scat crank. I went to put my windage tray on the studs... and even if i move the windage tray AS FAR away from the rotating assembly as i can.. the rod bolts still hit it

i can probly rig something up with a long nut to make the windage tray clear... but my question is, is the rotating assembely going to hit the front, higher, end of the pan. i left my pan at the shop and want to see if any one else has had any experience with this.

And just so you know, i'm running 22 degree 4 bolt main caps, with ARP main studs.

 

Which brand oil pan are you using?

 

stock oil pan

 

I myself am running a 3.750" crank with H-beam rods and a Canton oil pan and have no clearance issues (did have to bend the crank scraper a small amount though). I did try the stock pan just because and it seemed to have clearance as well. There are some other guys here running the stock oil pan with aftermarket rods and a longer stroke crank and they have stated that they have not had any clearance issues.

With regards to your windage tray, are they rod bolts or nuts that are causing the interference??? How much? You can either eliminate the windage tray, shim it down further away from the crank, grind the rod nuts or bolt heads (a small amount won't affect the balance of the motor enough to make a difference) or try a different brand windage tray. Just my .02

 

A friend's engine had minor windage tray contact. We slipped a pryber in there and tweaked it until there was ~0.100" clearance. Fine ever since. For the pan, when you get it back, slip it on without the gasket and see if anything touches.