When I take my valve cover off and look at the rocker arms how do I know which to adjust? I know how to get zero lash and adjust the preload I just dont know which ones and in what order. My hub and harmonic balancer were taken off for the stroker so that may not be dead on.

Also another easy question does the motor spin clockwise or counterclock wise? I always get those screwed up.

 

clockwise

 

Lets see if I got this right...when both pushrods are down I can adjust both???

 

I think you can adjust 4 at a time. Two on each side of the engine. But I'm not positive. I can't believe you're not getting a big response on this one. Maybe a little later when more people get home

 

As long as both pushrods are down you can adjust the lash on that cylinder....

 

I bet 90% of all questions can be answered with shoebox's website!

http://csce.uark.edu/~jgbertr/rb/4th...#adjust_valves

 

1843
6572
(chevy firing order) well it should be I wrote it down somewhere but this comes from memory. pretty sure it's right if not correct and keep going
Split the overlap on #6 and adjust # 1,
Split the overlap on #5 adjust #8.. and so on. Pretty easy.. if your are not sure both lifters should be down and the rocker shouldn't be pushing any.

 

I always used

EOIC (i belive)

when exhaust is just opening, adjust intake, and when intake is just closing adjust exhaust.

those might be backwards, havent done them in a while.

i used my starter to bump the motor until the valves were where i wanted them, (good way to drain battery though).

also, if these have the keepers in them, MAKE SURE YOU GET THEM TIGHT, or you will be doing this again, but with a horrible noise reminding you.

 

Ok....I checked shoebox's site. If I can get the pushrods so that both are down at cylinder #1 I can assume that 1 is at TDC?

If I can get 1 at TDC I will be ok and can follow the directions on shoebox's website...

 

you need to make sure its on the compression stroke, if not the no. 1 will be up, but no. 6 is at TDC. Turn crank with your finger in the whole and when u feel pressure, it hitting no. 1 TDC. then adjust the valves per Shoe's directions. Make sure the lifters are pumped up, its better if u can let the car run 1st for a few and then tear into it. I've already adjusted mine twice this way and still dont like the way the turn out, either too tight or too noisy(loose). I'm gonna do em with the engine running tomm., with that method u can get em perfect . I bought some clips that go on the rocker are to deflect the oil so there's no mess, only way to go

 

Hmm ok, thanks for the tips...Ill let the car run a little bit than before I go at it then. If I can get the close with the motor not running I might try it with them running.

 

trust me dude, do it with the motor running. Like I said, i've done mine twice already, its close, but u can get em perfect with it running. I think I paid like 8 bucks for the clips, well worth it. Make sure they will fit aftermarket rollers. These kinda look like a W with little plastic peices that fit in the hole of the p/r. The older style (metal clips, factor rockers) wont fit on aftermarket rollers. Its really no big deal to remove the v/c's but I'm getting sick of it already. I couldnt imagine doing it with the AIR tubes in the way, praise pcmforless and headers, much easier to work on now

 

Matt: I use the ghetto technique. Since I'm usually solo when I work on the car, I don't like getting underneath the car and back up more than I have to. I turn the engine over a bit, tighten down the rockers to zero lash, continue randomly turning the crank, and going back over the valves I've already done get them close. After that, I hop in the car and start. Its pretty obvious what to do while the enginge is running .

Ryan