so if i had a bad lifter, the noise would not get louder with acceleration?

 

<--- anyone know?

 

That is very good to know, and makes sense now that you say it. That means I definately have a valvetrain problem and not an exhuast leak. Problem solved Im good as long as its not a bad lifter. With 157K on the clock though it could be anything.

 

Well don't rule out any possibilities. Best thing to do is get your valves adjusted ASAP.
I always adjust them with the car running. Much faster and I think it's more accurate. I'm not sure if you have stock rockers, but if you do you will have to use either rocker oil deflecting clips that you can pick up from any auto parts store or a piece of cardbord around the outside of the cylidner to block oil from getting onto the exhaust. The clips attatch to your rockers and block the oil holes on the rockers. They look like this:
http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B0...094767950_.jpg

Once you do that, then you can start the car and not have an oily mess on your hands.
This proceedure is very easy. You back off the adjusting nut until you hear an audible tick. You then tighten the adjusting nut just until the tick goes away. That is now zero lash. You then tighten to your desired pre-load. I always use 1/2 a turn past zero lash. You then move onto the next one.
You'll probably have to stop the car a few times because it will start to get hot.
Or... you can pull the valve covers off, try to pinpoint which rocker is ticking, adjust that one and drive the car for awhile to see if the ticking returns. An auto stethascope is VERY handy at pinpointing a ticking rocker. You just put it on the top of the stud and whatever one sounds the loudest is your culprit.
Make sure to examine your valve train w/ the valvecovers off. Check the roller bearings on the rockers for any wear and especially for the rocker that is ticking.
If you find any wear then you need to pull the rockers off and look at the top of your valves to check for any wear.

 

Yeah doing it with the engine running does sound a hell of a lot easier. I am debating on upgrade my entire valve train (excluding valves) to some 1.6RRs, LT4 springs and stuff or getting a EDGE torque converter. So I may end up replacing the rockers anyways.

 

is your valve train ticking when you first start it up or does it start to tick as the car gets to operating temp. if it starts right away it is most likley a bad lifter or i nick in the cam shaft. if it starts to develop after the car heats up it is most likley a worn timing chain with that many miles on it . i had a similer problem with my 95lt1 and i adjusted the valves several times thinking i did something wrong and finely i got the scope out and heard it coming from the timing cover and when i tore it down there was my problem. hope this can provide some help.

 

It starts when the engine starts...I really dont want it to be a lifter. Really really dont. I dont want to have to buy new lifters, a cam sure I can do that, rockers no problem, springs not a issue either but lifters are lifters and it would suck to shell out the money on a part that you cant get a good after market replacment that will make you more power.

 

It happens, nothing you can do about it. Valve springs, pushrods, and a timing chain don't add horsepower either, but you should upgrade the when putting in a aftermarket cam. If your lifters are indeed the problem, you can always just get another OEM replacement set and they won't cost you a ridiculous amount. Maybe try one of these guys. http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#Dal_and_Jason

 

may be a stupid question, but, if you have a lifter making noise, then to fix it all you have to do is buy a new lifter set to replace the old ones right, nothing else? thanks

 

Like everything else is you replace one part you should go ahead and change the others for good measure. You dont have to but you should just for the simple reason that you are there you have it apart, so change the stuff you can.

2000GTP Yeah I know ther eis nothing I can do about it, but I dont have to to like it!!! Would be nice if a hot cam kit came with lifters. I'll check those guys out on Shoebox's site. I have a very mild set up so I dont need anything elborate. Besides I hear comps lifters suck, and GMs lifters are very well made. Hopefully I can tighten the rocker down and everythign will be just fine.

 

As long as the valvetrain components do not show any wear then there's no reason to replace them.

 

Mauiguyy911, SS RRR know more about this then I do so he is probably right. I am just ****, and end up replacing everything when I do a job, and I have 157K miles on my car so its a good bet it will need it.

Damn it! I was happy until someone said it might be my lifters!! Cant we delete all the posts from there so all it was is an easy fix that I can replace with some cool parts!?!

 

Adjusting valves is easy. This is my method.

1) Install pushrods and rocker arms

2) By hand install all of the locking nuts (do not install locks at this time, compleetly remove them and set them aside).

3) Turn the engine over untill some of the valves are in the open posion. Keep rotating the crank untill you observe maximum lift. You don't need a dial indicator here just close 'nuf.

4) You are now ready to adjust the adjasent rocker arm of the same cylinder.

Note: Step #3 insures that the lifter is on the base circle of the cam. If the lifter is any where on the lift part you will adjust the rockers wrong! This is because you are now tightening against the valve spring and lifter, this will make the rocker higher than it needs to be. You will notice that on the next engine rotation that particular rocker will not be adjusted right. Step #3 also assumes that the intake is on the engine and you can't see the lifters.

5) Loosen the adjusting nut untill the rocker just flopps arround.

6) Begin tightening the nut by hand while lifting up and down on the rocker arm on the push rod side. (forget that spin push rod garbage )

7) Continue tightening by hand untill the rocker arm has no vertical movement. This is zero lash.

8) At this point a decision needs to be made with regard to your preload setting. A stock hydraulic lifter takes between 1/4 and 1/2 turn, still other lifters require less like 1/16th tun, and some lifters either run at zero or with lash in which case you would need a feeler gauge. Consult the lifter manufactureure for this part.

9) Install the nut lock. Thread them in by hand.

10) Grab a box end wrench and hold back the nut while you tighten the lock. Use a medium length allen wrench and snug it down pretty tight. I typically use my thumb untill I get some wrench deflection.

11) Lastly take the box end wrench and tighten the nut another degree or two. This will ensure that the locks are set.
NOTE: When removing the nut (for any reason) don't break them loose at the lock. Instead, loosen the nut first then hold back the nut while you remove the lock. This will help preserve the threads on the locks and nuts.

Thats it! Then continue down the line roating and adjusting untill you run out of locks.

You can try with the engine running, but this way is easier and less messy.

Good luck.

 

Pretty much, also take into account you will need replacement gaskets for when you pop off the intake manifold.

 

Yea: l meant lifters and not rollers. BTW, I would believe that it is especially important to have some preload and good spring pressures when running SA RRs, since the rockers are only kept on the stems with guide wheels and if they come off the stems and beat the hell out of the retainers and keepers you risk dropping a valve which is not a good thing.JMHO