Rocker Arm Adjustment
Rocker Arm Adjustment
My car has recently developed a ticking noise that gets faster as the RPMs go up. I am assuming it is just in need of me adjusting the rockers and making sure they are snug. (Please correct me if this is a wrong assumption on my part).
From what I have read and seen in the Haynes manual it looks pretty straight forward. For my car all I need to do is:
Remove the alternator, unplug the break booster hose from the intake on the drivers side. Remove the PCV from the passenger side, set the car to TDC, remove the valve covers and check the pushrods for play by wiggling them up and down. Snug the rockers till there is no more play and give it a 3/4 turn to set them in the lifters. I can tighten the #1, 2, 5, and 7 intake valves, and the #3, 4, and 8 exhaust valves. Turn the crank one complete time (360 degrees) and adjust the #3, 4, 6, and 8 intake valves and the 2, 5, 6, and 7 exhaust valves. The reassemble everything.
While it seems pretty easy I was wondering if there was something more I needed to know like special tools I will need, or some steps to make it a bit easier. I know when changing plugs with my headers it was a PIA cause had I known I should have a shallower socket and open end wrench it would have made it much more easy. So I am just trying to get ahead of the game and see if anyone has some extra words of knowledge.
Thanks guys and gals!!
From what I have read and seen in the Haynes manual it looks pretty straight forward. For my car all I need to do is:
Remove the alternator, unplug the break booster hose from the intake on the drivers side. Remove the PCV from the passenger side, set the car to TDC, remove the valve covers and check the pushrods for play by wiggling them up and down. Snug the rockers till there is no more play and give it a 3/4 turn to set them in the lifters. I can tighten the #1, 2, 5, and 7 intake valves, and the #3, 4, and 8 exhaust valves. Turn the crank one complete time (360 degrees) and adjust the #3, 4, 6, and 8 intake valves and the 2, 5, 6, and 7 exhaust valves. The reassemble everything.
While it seems pretty easy I was wondering if there was something more I needed to know like special tools I will need, or some steps to make it a bit easier. I know when changing plugs with my headers it was a PIA cause had I known I should have a shallower socket and open end wrench it would have made it much more easy. So I am just trying to get ahead of the game and see if anyone has some extra words of knowledge.
Thanks guys and gals!!
I just pop the valve covers off and let the car idle. Loosen them until they get really loud then slowly tighten them back up until they are quiet and then give them another 1/4-1/2 turn. Works for me, have some gloves handy it gets hot under there quick.
Exhaust leaks are usually visible by black soot escaping from the leak area. You can listen and "feel" for exhaust escaping if the engine is cold enough to get your hand in places.
Yeah that makes since...:P I guess I deserve that for asking such a silly question.
I havent noticed any black soot,or felt exhuast leaking. When it stops raining I'll check all my header bolts, then move on to the rockers if that doesn't get it.
I havent noticed any black soot,or felt exhuast leaking. When it stops raining I'll check all my header bolts, then move on to the rockers if that doesn't get it.
I have the same problem you are having. I even have the same car and mostly the same mods. I thought it might be an exhaust leak on my car too, but I'm pretty sure thats not the case. I'm gonna wait until I put my new cam in to adjust the rockers though. You could try opening the throttle by hand when you are under the hood and listening near the the valve covers. I think there are some other tricks like using a wooden dowel or something as a listening stick on the valve covers. Search around on the net'. Also I believe you can use seafoam to track down an exhaust leak if you think thats it. Search on that too, cause I'm no expert lol.
Thanks. I checked for an exhuast leak and didnt see anything. I asked some others if they heard the ticking and they looked at me as though I am crazy. So it isnt very noticable. Im gonna put several mods into the car in about 2.5, 3 months so I will do it all then unless it gets worse.
ok heres the deal. i had what i thought to be a lifter go out. well i ordered all this new stuff and spent $1100 trying to fix this problem and it never got fixed. new lifters, hot cam kit, pushrods, all of it. it never fixed and the reason is because i spun a rod bearing. it started out as a tic then it got worse and became a knock. well after i installed all my new parts thinking it would be solved there was the same noise there was before i tore the motor down. i started doing oil press. test, spark test, etc. i finally relized if i unplug one of the spark plugs that cylinder won't fire. well sure enough i unplug the #6 cylinder and the knock stops. well that tells me two things. either a main bearing or rod bearing. my bet is a rod bearing. cheap to fix but time consuming. you have to drop the motor.
ok heres the deal. i had what i thought to be a lifter go out. well i ordered all this new stuff and spent $1100 trying to fix this problem and it never got fixed. new lifters, hot cam kit, pushrods, all of it. it never fixed and the reason is because i spun a rod bearing. it started out as a tic then it got worse and became a knock. well after i installed all my new parts thinking it would be solved there was the same noise there was before i tore the motor down. i started doing oil press. test, spark test, etc. i finally relized if i unplug one of the spark plugs that cylinder won't fire. well sure enough i unplug the #6 cylinder and the knock stops. well that tells me two things. either a main bearing or rod bearing. my bet is a rod bearing. cheap to fix but time consuming. you have to drop the motor.
Ewwww that sucks man!! Im sorry to hear about that. At least you caught it before you had to get a new engine all together though.
Not only that but when engine is under load (accelleration) an exhaust leak will become louder whereas valvetrain noise will not.


