Rocker adjustment min/max turns past zero lash?
Rocker adjustment min/max turns past zero lash?
I've read a million different ways and opinions on how much preload / turns to put on lifters once at zero lash..anywhere from 1/8 turn to 1 full turn and cannot decide which I should go by.
What is recommended for a .597/.585 lift cam using OEM lifters...or what are the tolerated min/max amount to put on them?
BTW, this motor will not be revving part 6200rpms either.
What is recommended for a .597/.585 lift cam using OEM lifters...or what are the tolerated min/max amount to put on them?
BTW, this motor will not be revving part 6200rpms either.
Last edited by 2QUIK6; Apr 17, 2007 at 03:18 PM.
If you have 3/8" diameter rocker studs, then 1/2 turn past zero lash is the spec for stock lifters. If you have 7/16" diameter studs, due to the coarser thread, the spec is 3/8 turn past zero lash.
These values put you in the correct spot for lifter proload on stock lifters.
Dan
These values put you in the correct spot for lifter proload on stock lifters.
Dan
Hopefully you got your answer, since I'm not trying to thread jack but what about my setup with ARP 7/16 studs, 1.6 pro mags, and Comp R lifters? I think I have read between 1/8 & 1/4 but let me know for sure
Yeah, I would do a search for the Comp R lifters. They don't take much preload at all. Seems as though people have had success with different settings based on application, in my experience reading about them.
Stock lifters are pretty straight forward, and should be adjusted, at least the first try, by the specs I listed.
Dan
Stock lifters are pretty straight forward, and should be adjusted, at least the first try, by the specs I listed.
Dan
I would tend to agree with the 1/4-3/8 turn but have to ask about the cam.
That seems like a heck of a lot of lift and I would expect decent duration to match. As such I think you are setting you propesed rev limit too low especially if this is a 350/355.
That seems like a heck of a lot of lift and I would expect decent duration to match. As such I think you are setting you propesed rev limit too low especially if this is a 350/355.
Comp specs the comp R's at .001-.004" hot, so as close to 0 lash as u can.
Thanks for the info steroemandan!
I was figuring all the different values I've read had to be specific to lift and lifter type.
I've got one side very noisey while the other side is not..maybe someone got distracted before they finished the job I suspect.
Dwayne, yes the rev limit is slightly lower than the max torque of the cam, its about 6500rpms, duration is 236/242 with 114 lsa, but this is a stock 95k mile bottom end thats is 100% street driven so I'm afraid to rev it to high. I got the heads/cam combo from an acquintance and it ran very smooth in his 383, but in my 350 the power is much lower, 446rwhp vs 340rwhp currently.
If I can't get some more of the bugs out of it, I'll probably end up with a smaller cam and bring the torque band back down since this is street driven all of the time...it worked flawless for my friend but his car was also a 6-spd.
Ok, now to figure out what studs I have....anyone know what the stock factory stud size was?? I still have my stockers, so I guess I can see if the nuts fit on them or not and determine for sure...
I was figuring all the different values I've read had to be specific to lift and lifter type.
I've got one side very noisey while the other side is not..maybe someone got distracted before they finished the job I suspect.
Dwayne, yes the rev limit is slightly lower than the max torque of the cam, its about 6500rpms, duration is 236/242 with 114 lsa, but this is a stock 95k mile bottom end thats is 100% street driven so I'm afraid to rev it to high. I got the heads/cam combo from an acquintance and it ran very smooth in his 383, but in my 350 the power is much lower, 446rwhp vs 340rwhp currently.
If I can't get some more of the bugs out of it, I'll probably end up with a smaller cam and bring the torque band back down since this is street driven all of the time...it worked flawless for my friend but his car was also a 6-spd.
Ok, now to figure out what studs I have....anyone know what the stock factory stud size was?? I still have my stockers, so I guess I can see if the nuts fit on them or not and determine for sure...
Dwayne, yes the rev limit is slightly lower than the max torque of the cam, its about 6500rpms, duration is 236/242 with 114 lsa, but this is a stock 95k mile bottom end thats is 100% street driven so I'm afraid to rev it to high. I got the heads/cam combo from an acquintance and it ran very smooth in his 383, but in my 350 the power is much lower, 446rwhp vs 340rwhp currently.
If I can't get some more of the bugs out of it, I'll probably end up with a smaller cam and bring the torque band back down since this is street driven all of the time...it worked flawless for my friend but his car was also a 6-spd.
If I can't get some more of the bugs out of it, I'll probably end up with a smaller cam and bring the torque band back down since this is street driven all of the time...it worked flawless for my friend but his car was also a 6-spd.
Where was his 446 rwhp at and where is your 340 hp at? a 350 turning 6500 rpm is about like a 383 turning 6000 rpm. So you should look for your horsepower peak to be roughly 500-600 rpm higher than his was with the same heads/cam. Due to the smaller bore you might find your horsepower impaired a little but losing 100 horsepower is quite a bit. If you want to rev bellow the power peak of this cam then you should pick a cam that suits where you want to rev to, don't just get any cam and decide on whatever limit you want, decide your limit then get your cam based on that.
The 383 maxxed around 6200rpms. We knew we would not get those results from the get go being a 350 A4 and his being a 383 6-spd.
Yes,t he plan is to go with a different cam to bring the power back down in usuable rpms for the street once I know all the other parts are working correctly and I'm sure I don't have any other problems else where that are being overlooked.


