LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Rings not seating?

Old Aug 16, 2005 | 09:47 PM
  #16  
1racerdude's Avatar
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Re: Rings not seating?

Originally Posted by med_reject
I guess evidence based medicine is totally different from engines then. We are always evaluating and re-evaluating research and modifying treatment guidelines accordingly.
If ya have a research treatment that is not proven to work yet,and this is a life or death,do you go with what is known to work or the unproven one??
Old Aug 16, 2005 | 09:51 PM
  #17  
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Re: Rings not seating?

I guess the car doesn't burn oil anymore if this is debate now
Old Aug 17, 2005 | 12:08 PM
  #18  
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Re: Rings not seating?

Originally Posted by 1racerdude
If ya have a research treatment that is not proven to work yet,and this is a life or death,do you go with what is known to work or the unproven one??
we go with whats proven until research suggests something better. My impression after reading on this site was that german made 0w30 castrol syntec resulted in the lowest engine wear. That depends on whether the analysis is a true indication of internal wear, which my limited knowledge indicates it was.
Old Aug 18, 2005 | 11:58 AM
  #19  
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Re: Rings not seating?

Originally Posted by Warlock1313
I guess the car doesn't burn oil anymore if this is debate now
Not sure why a couple of guys became victims of the 'snowball - bent out of shape effect' over this off topic issue. Surprised the '0' in a 0W30/40 became such an issue. Personally, unless the outside temp is summer hot, or with hot engine starts, I consider it difficult to obtain/use oil that is too thin for cold cold starts. The majority of overall engine wear (short of using questionable filters in a very dusty environment) is a result of cold engine starts. The easier the oil flows to vital engine areas, the quicker it lubes, and consequently, the less the potential wear. For the '0W' detractors, isn't the oil engineered to take on thicker oil qualities as the oil temp increases? Then why the disagreement? I consider that oil, the better of both worlds. I'm more concerned with the effectiveness of the other #, be it a 30, 40, or 50.

Back on topic, 'MEAN LT1' might consider putting dyno oil back in temporarily, and try a 'last ditch effort' to get the rings to seal. By LDE, I am implying a technique used by Smokey in the 60s, to get a running engine to seal quick for an impending race. It was effective without any negatives that I am aware of. Any oldtimer here, aware of this technique? Hint to others; it was poured down the carb, but wasn't wet.

Last edited by arnie; Aug 18, 2005 at 12:01 PM.
Old Aug 19, 2005 | 08:29 AM
  #20  
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Re: Rings not seating?

Originally Posted by arnie
Back on topic, 'MEAN LT1' might consider putting dyno oil back in temporarily, and try a 'last ditch effort' to get the rings to seal. By LDE, I am implying a technique used by Smokey in the 60s, to get a running engine to seal quick for an impending race. It was effective without any negatives that I am aware of. Any oldtimer here, aware of this technique? Hint to others; it was poured down the carb, but wasn't wet.
Hmmm... thot someone would jump at the opening I gave. I was referring to a household cleaning product (powder) known as Bon Ami. Although not shown to be harmful to an engine, I would use it as a final attempt at sealing an engine, and not the first course of action.

If you have decided to pull the engine, this would make for a great opportunity to try it. If it isn't effective, no loss. If it does the trick....

Last edited by arnie; Aug 19, 2005 at 08:32 AM.
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