I can't believe it I mean, when I looked to buy replacement bolts they were like $140 bucks I just didn't have it. I thought it was okay to get away with reusing them.

 

A days work? you mean 2 weeks worth of work. Who feels like taking off headers, removing intakes, draining coolant, pulling off rockers, removing vaccum lines, etc etc. It's easy to miss out on a set of $140 dollar head bolts, when I made my paper stretch to buy the AFR's. If anything bad happens I'm parting the damn thing out and selling it. I'm tired of this crap I could be happy with a honda at this point.

 

Gee, I only paid $125 or so for ARP bolts for heads, rods, mains and oil pump. ARP head bolts were only $49 at that time (a few years ago).

You might not have any trouble. I tend to err on the safe side, though.

 

I bet you could replace the bolts one for one with out replacing the head gaskets. You will have to remove the exhaust manifold/heads and valve train. I don't see a reason to pull the intake.


Just pretend you're one of the guys that actually performs a complete retorque after a couple of heat cycles.\\\

Mike

 

How do you not remove the intake if your removing the heads?

 

Sounds like you are tight on cash, but if you can save for ARP studs instead of bolts, you'll get an even seal. Bolts work fine but if you upgrade later to N2O or boost, you'll be glad you had studs. Just a thought since you may be changing them out anyways.

 

Bolts are only like $50. Hell thats just a bit more than a tank of gas.

 

You will be fine.

How did the world ever exist with guys using the same head bolts for years, time after time until the old experts on z28.com chimed in.

Unless you have personally had an issue with a head bolt snapping, head gaskets blowing out because of "incorrent torque wrench torque"...come on.

 

 

Agreed, this would be acceptable IMO.

Jazsun, if doing it this way there's no need to pull the heads off. Just replace the bolts one by one. There's no head bolts under the intake

 

Like this gentleman said, it's been done before. Hell Iv'e done it, just not on this car. Good luck.

 

Personal opinion - if they are torque to yield (mentioned before) I wouldn't use them again.

If you really want to quantify the bolts, measure them for bolt stretch.

If they are not torque to yield then you are probably ok. Again, my opinion is if you are going into the head bolts, rod bolts, or main bolts... replace them.

Also, I'd be cautious replacing one bolt at a time. I'd "crack" them loose using the manufacturer specified torque pattern... then replace them one at a time so the aluminum head won't warp. This will relieve the pressure on the bolt that is missing. This is my opinion and what I would do to be safe.

 

Unless they are torque to yield

I agree, I even think I reused my head bolts

 

Thanks for beating me to the punch. I have the time to get on the internet every day.
The biggest pita for Jazsun is going to be the short bolts, since the exhaust manifolds/headers will have to be removed to get them. Although I believe the old ones will be OK; the way my LT1 luck runs I'd replace the head bolts.
Mike

 

Last time I checked with Dal for a set of stock head bolts it was a whopping $23 for a whole set of new stock bolts, there is your budget solution.

Dal is a man that sells GM parts at very low markup as opposed to the often 100% markup the average dealership charges so just use whomever you use for GM parts at good prices.