Planning to swap out OEM rotors with Power Slot ProStop front and back. Any gotchas for this swap. Looks straight forward to remove the calipers (2 bolts) from the spindle...any other fasteners that are not clearly visible before I start yanking??

Any helpful hints?

 

All I had to do for mine was just remove the calipers... so yea, those 2 bolts and they'll come right out.

 

Don't forget to remove the lugnuts from the wheels 1st...it seems to make the job soooooo much easier.

 

I'd switch out the pads for new ones even if thier only half gone while your in there. The front is really easy and the back is alittle harder for the pads. For the rotors its just slip off slip on and if you cant get the caliper back on just use a c-clamp to push the cylender back. Its easyer to push back if you undo the bleeder screw. Just make sure you add more brake fluid when your done.
Thats what I did anyways.

 

the key to pushing the piston in the caliper back is to open the brake cylinder. =) and then with a 5 inch c- clip just push it back in, very easy.....

the hardest part, and I just did brakes on my z and my brother's aurora, would be the calipre bolts. overall, not hard at all.

btw, make sure you have the right tools before you start.


lol.

You WILL NEED a 5/8 Allen key wrench, get the one for a wrench, will make it ALOT easier. That and a torque wrench always helps.

 

I'm trying to do this without bleeding the system afterwards. If I had to push the piston back, do I need to remove any brake fluid or just open the top of the cylinder?

Also, what recommended torque to replace the caliper bolts.

Yes, Carlos, I plan to remove the lugs from the wheels first.

 

I heard pushing the piston back on the caliper is bad for the ABS
system. The piston should only be pushed back by opening the
bleeder screw.

 

I was also told that it will ruin the abs if the piston is pushed back without opening the bleeder screw.

 

To answer your question about the abs when i did my brakes we used the method above by pushing the caliper piston in. Went through like a champ. And I would recommend doing the pads as well they are pretty cheap and will save you headaches later. If you dont bleed the brakes you are just asking for troube I.E. Spongy brakes etc. BLEED THAT STUFF! lol it isnt hard and you will be glad you didn in the long run.

P.s. My abs works great.

 

The reason it is suppose to be bad for ABS, is that the old fluid which can be dirty, can get caught in the ABS pump causing it to fail. I always open the bleeder and let the fluid out because I don't want to take that risk. That and I don't find it that hard to bleed the brakes. Also, another point, the brake fluid needs to be changed everyonce in awhile. THe brake fluid will start to devolp moisture within it reducing the fluids effectiveness. That is what I was taught when I was in my automotive classes.

 

Just to help out, I just took my calipers off and the size you need is 3/8, not 5/8. Yes I would put on new pads and just push the piston back in. I have been doing this for years on ABS and non-ABS and never had a problem. I fyour fluid is dark, you may want to change it while you're there. Anyway, good luck.

 

My neighbor manages a repair shop and he told me not to push fluid back through the system because it can cause problems with the ABS as was stated above, so I always open the bleeder screw before pushing the caliper piston back. Once you open the bleeder you will want to bleed the system. Also you should not reuse old pads with new rotors.

 

On my C4 w/ ABS, I have pushed the pistons back without opening the bleed screw with no problems. But maybe I am just lucky. I should mentioned my fluid does stay relatively clean.

BTW if you do decide to do it this way, I recommend using a turkey baster and sucking out half the fluid in the M/C reservoir. Otherwise it may overflow when you push the pistons in.